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67 Belvedere wagon...It's Alive!!!

Jim 68cuda

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:33 AM
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
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Location
Virginia
In 2019, I bought this wagon, sight unseen, and had it shipped from Kansas City to Virginia. It's been a long road. But today, for the first time since I bought this wagon it moved under its own power. And it was probably it's first time moving under it's own power in more than a quarter of a century. The original 318 was long gone when I bought this wagon as a dismantled project car in primer and in need of some body work. I found the 383 and transmission on ForCbodiesOnly (out of a 68 Monaco). Body work and paint was the first step (done by a local shop). Then while very expensive OEM material from SMS was crafted into new upholstery by another local shop, My buddy and I went through the engine before tucking it between the fender wells. There were alot of setbacks (the worst of which was finding the torsion bar cross member was rusted from the inside out in a couple places). But today, with the brakes finally done, we bolted the front seat in and drove the car around the neighborhood. Still much to be done, but with hopeful optimism, I preregistered it for Chrysler Carlisle.


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I used to have a 1967 Coronet wagon. I found it was fairly easy to modify a '67 GTX gas cap assembly to fit it.
 
I used to have a 1967 Coronet wagon. I found it was fairly easy to modify a '67 GTX gas cap assembly to fit it.
The original gas cap doesn't seem to fit securely. But I haven't yet put the screws in to hold the filler tube in place to the quarter. If it looks like I'll still loose the cap once everything is secured in place, I have considered going that route.
 
Nice.

Is that YY1 or, turbine bronze?
 
Nice.

Is that YY1 or, turbine bronze?
Its YY1. But, this is a 67 and apparently there was a difference between YY1 in 66 and 67. Didn't know that until a few years after I had it painted (when I went to the local Auto Body Supply to get a rattle can of YY1 for touch up). The body shop went by YY1 paint code to get the paint, and it ended up being the 66 YY1 which was called Bronze Metallic rather than the correct 67 YY1 Light Tan Metallic. It doesn't look anything like MM1 Turbine Bronze Metallic (which is much darker and has a reddish tint to it). Looks more like its halfway between 67 YY1 Light Tan Metallic and 67 TT1 Medium Copper Metallic (my favorite 67 color). But, I like the color and it's too late to change. It's just a slightly darker shade of tan than the 67 YY1.

I did think it would have at least been on the road a while before someone questioned the color.
 
I went the GTX gas cap route on my 67 Belvedere wagon. Found no install instructions, this how it fit the best. It does seem backwards with latch in front and hinge on backside. I don’t know, maybe I’m dumb or wagon fender has different contour than 2 drhdtp or, or….? Anyone else installed on a wagon with different results?

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I went the GTX gas cap route on my 67 Belvedere wagon. Found no install instructions, this how it fit the best. It does seem backwards with latch in front and hinge on backside. I don’t know, maybe I’m dumb or wagon fender has different contour than 2 drhdtp or, or….? Anyone else installed on a wagon with different results?

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View attachment 1857683

Mine went on fine oriented with hinge in front.
 
I remember when I put the GTX cap on my '67 Coronet wagon, I had to hand finesse the the trim piece under the cap to lay down properly on the quarter panel. I put this down to possible contour difference in Dodge panel versus GTX one. Mine mounted with hinge to the front.
 
Still progressing on the wagon. New Hankook white wall tires went on a week ago. This weekend, my buddy again came by to help put the wagon together, as he has been doing most weekends for several months now. Front seat belts went in (harder than expected to get the belts between the front seat cushions). Inner fender splash pans went in today since we were able to find enough random hardware that fit lying around the garage. Cruddy broken steering wheel got replaced, today, with a better one out of my 68 Charger (and the Charger got a wood grain wheel installed) thanks to the buddy bringing his steering wheel puller. Trying to replace the tie rod ends last night, he discovered one tie rod adjuster sleeve was bent. Auto Zone in Manassas, VA had one so we made the two hour round trip to pick that up this morning and got the new parts installed.
Starter number 4 seems to be working perfectly every time. The nasty looking old power tailgate window motor, that another friend had sitting in an open parts car for decades, is now in my tailgate and is working perfectly every time. Found window seals that fit and work for the tailgate window even though they aren't the factory molded parts.
I have the rear folding seat back and filler panel, and the tailgate to cargo floor filler panel figured out and installed. But it took carefully studying the interior pictures in the 67 "Chrysler Master Parts" book, to figure out what parts go where and with what random hardware the previous owner left me. Some of the hardware was in clearly marked bags. But some was missing and some was in unmarked or mis-marked zip lock bags. I have made several trips to AMK Products in nearby Winchester, VA for hardware for this project (most recently for the unique clips the armrest pad screw into and for a few of the needed armrest pad screws that were missing).
The transmission was leaking enough to create a lake under the car over night. A new seal on the drain plug, a little hammering on the edge of the drain pan and retightening the bolts holding the drain pan, has reduced the lake under the car to a few drops over night. Its a Mopar, its gonna leak something.
Still to go is the windshield washer assembly, the hood to cowl seal, the headliner, the rear view mirror and visors, the glove box, the kick panels and interior windshield trim, the interior trim at the top of the rear side glass and at the back above the tailgate window, the luggage rack, and the wheel lip moldings. Problems to solve include non working gas gauge, non working backup lights, non working 4 way flashers, and erratic speedometer. Hoping to get more of the interior done this week.
Got the car out on the road today and took it to the gas station for its first full tank of gas. Got back and my buddy adjusted the timing a little and the toe for front end alignment after installing new tie rod ends today. It didn't get too far on a second test drive. The new motor mount broke. Two steps forward and one step back. I guess thats better than the two steps forward three steps back that has been the story of this car up till now.


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Found window seals that fit and work for the tailgate window even though they aren't the factory molded ones.
Which seals did you find? The long curved one that seals the upper half and sides, or the straight ones that seal the flat bottom edge?
 
Still progressing on the wagon. New Hankook white wall tires went on a week ago. This weekend, my buddy again came by to help put the wagon together, as he has been doing most weekends for several months now. Front seat belts went in (harder than expected to get the belts between the front seat cushions). Inner fender splash pans went in today since we were able to find enough random hardware that fit lying around the garage. Cruddy broken steering wheel got replaced, today, with a better one out of my 68 Charger (and the Charger got a wood grain wheel installed) thanks to the buddy bringing his steering wheel puller. Trying to replace the tie rod ends last night, he discovered one tie rod adjuster sleeve was bent. Auto Zone in Manassas, VA had one so we made the two hour round trip to pick that up this morning and got the new parts installed.
Starter number 4 seems to be working perfectly every time. The nasty looking old power tailgate window motor, that another friend had sitting in an open parts car for decades, is now in my tailgate and is working perfectly every time. Found window seals that fit and work for the tailgate window even though they aren't the factory molded parts.
I have the rear folding seat back and filler panel, and the tailgate to cargo floor filler panel figured out and installed. But it took carefully studying the interior pictures in the 67 "Chrysler Master Parts" book, to figure out what parts go where and with what random hardware the previous owner left me. Some of the hardware was in clearly marked bags. But some was missing and some was in unmarked or mis-marked zip lock bags. I have made several trips to AMK Products in nearby Winchester, VA for hardware for this project (most recently for the unique clips the armrest pad screw into and for a few of the needed armrest pad screws that were missing).
The transmission was leaking enough to create a lake under the car over night. A new seal on the drain plug, a little hammering on the edge of the drain pan and retightening the bolts holding the drain pan, has reduced the lake under the car to a few drops over night. Its a Mopar, its gonna leak something.
Still to go is the windshield washer assembly, the hood to cowl seal, the headliner, the rear view mirror and visors, the glove box, the kick panels and interior windshield trim, the interior trim at the top of the rear side glass and at the back above the tailgate window, the luggage rack, and the wheel lip moldings. Problems to solve include non working gas gauge, non working backup lights, non working 4 way flashers, and erratic speedometer. Hoping to get more of the interior done this week.
Got the car out on the road today and took it to the gas station for its first full tank of gas. Got back and my buddy adjusted the timing a little and the toe for front end alignment after installing new tie rod ends today. It didn't get too far on a second test drive. The new motor mount broke. Two steps forward and one step back. I guess thats better than the two steps forward three steps back that has been the story of this car up till now.


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Your wagon looks great! Congratulations on getting it roadworthy. I like the molded rubber 518 pan gasket that has o-rings around all the bolt holes for curing pan leaks. Since it is thicker than a normal cork gasket, it requires longer pan bolts. Mancini sells a deep pan kit that includes this gasket, longer bolts, filter, and filter extension for about $100. A heck of a deal! Here in Ontario, the gasket is only available at Chrysler Parts, and costs $50.
 
Which seals did you find? The long curved one that seals the upper half and sides, or the straight ones that seal the flat bottom edge?
Restoration Specialties has the molded piece that attaches to the metal runner on the bottom of the window glass. This piece goes up and down with the tailgate window and seals the outside of the glass against the upper exterior side of the window opening on the tailgate. The rubber gets sandwiched between the metal runner and the glass.

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My concern was that no one makes the triangular shaped molded rubber pieces that go on the sides of the window opening above the tailgate. The triangular metal pieces hold the channel rubber that the glass goes up into.


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Restoration Specialties sent me samples of a couple different channel rubber styles to try. One fit perfectly into the window channel at the top of the window opening and also fit down into the deepest part of the triangular shaped window channels. The window goes up into the rubber channel all around. So I'm quite happy. I should note that in the opening itself should look better once I have the interior trim installed around the rear window opening.

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