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67 Headlight motors, stumped

Potshot

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I kind of hate reposting questions that get asked a lot but here we go.

My headlight motor problem on my 67 Charger matches a trouble shooting doc I'm using exactly. The doc;
http://phscollectorcarworld.blogspot.com/2015/09/tech-files-196-1967-dodge-charger.html?m=1

The problem;
PXL_20211120_151721242.jpg
  • Both lights light up
  • "Lamps Not Locked" warning is on
  • Motors don't rotate. Neither of them.
So far this is what I've done
  • I've successfully rotated the motors both open and closed with direct power.
  • I've replaced a known bad circuit breaker behind the driver's kick panel.
  • I replaced the relays with a Topher McGinnis kit (I can hear a relay click when I operate the headlight switch).
  • ...and I think I've checked the correct ground (under the battery tray). This pic isn't the best, but yes, I checked on the actual wire crimp and this ground is good.

PXL_20211120_152443753.jpg

Questions;
Is the troubleshooting advice for my problem complete?
Am I checking the correct motor ground for both motors? It's under the battery tray and the colors are correct according to the classiccarwiring.com schematic I'm using.

I'm a little stuck and maybe what's found here will help others
 
Last edited:
I kind of hate reposting questions that get asked a lot but here we go.

My headlight motor problem on my 67 Charger matches a trouble shooting doc I'm using exactly. The doc;
http://phscollectorcarworld.blogspot.com/2015/09/tech-files-196-1967-dodge-charger.html?m=1

The problem;
View attachment 1196175
  • Both lights light up
  • "Lamps Not Locked" warning is on
  • Motors don't rotate. Neither of them.
So far this is what I've done
  • I've successfully rotated the motors both open and closed with direct power.
  • I've replaced a known bad circuit breaker behind the driver's kick panel.
  • I replaced the relays with a Topher McGinnis kit (I can hear a relay click when I operate the headlight switch).
  • ...and I think I've checked the correct ground (under the battery tray). This pic isn't the best, but yes, I checked on the actual wire crimp and this ground is good.

View attachment 1196176

Questions;
Is the troubleshooting advice for my problem complete?
Am I checking the correct motor ground for both motors? It's under the battery tray and the colors are correct according to the classiccarwiring.com schematic I'm using.

I'm a little stuck and maybe what's found here will help others

image.jpg
 
Im far from knowing how they work. But hopefully this will help you.
 
Im far from knowing how they work. But hopefully this will help you.
Thanks, I have the service manual. I'll go over it again but it's all starting to blur for me lol.
 
I found with mine. It was between the headlight switch and headlight rotate toggle. And in some cases the relay in the dash sticks. I tap it with a screwdriver. But I do have a gremlin in mine where if a positive wire is plugged in it will drain the battery There not fun.
 
The headlight harness connector should run along the fender apron above the battery tray.
Make sure they're tight and clean.
 
LOOK at the photo of the connector below the battery by the frame rail, it is not plugged in all the way. Is it still like that. Check that out first, make sure the tabs aren’t bent over and the battery acid hasn’t damaged it.

F17C912B-6FFC-4B61-BC83-B2F645275B95.jpeg
 
LOOK at the photo of the connector below the battery by the frame rail, it is not plugged in all the way. Is it still like that. Check that out first, make sure the tabs aren’t bent over and the battery acid hasn’t damaged it.

View attachment 1196195
Precisely
 
Assuming all the wiring is good and you have power. The likely problem is the upper limit switches.
Try unplugging one and jumper the two wires.
Turn on the headlights.
The opening relay should close and the motors should rotate. Just don't let them run long beyond the fully opened position 1 or 2 seconds is okay.
 
Good observations all around, thanks.

I cleaned that connector (wasn't too dirty, pins looked solid) and pressed it back together snug.
Tried my work, no change.

Okay. I jumpered one and then both upper limit switches. Still no luck. Attaching pics to confirm I've jumpered the right things!

PXL_20211120_170047838.jpg PXL_20211120_170010999.jpg
 
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Everything was reconnected and I'm checking connections back at the relays.

When I energize the violet line, the driver headlight opens. When I energize the red line, the drivers side closes. Shouldn't both of them open and close?

iMarkup_20211120_163735.jpg


I'm coming at this as a novice so the schematic isn't obvious to me.
 
After buttoning up after that last stunt the headlights now lit up and motors opened, but now don't close. That's an improvement that tells me I may need to check my relay connections.
 
...and they work. Not closing seemed to have to do with the "manual headlight open" switch. It was set to off and had to be jiggled to allow them to close. This was a long, goofy session but at least things work. I'll take that and be done.
 
The manual toggle switch is finicky. I have with mine.
 
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