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68 Charger Volt/Ammeter gauge issue

pnora said:
We did. I read the post and we can agree on one thing for sure. Bypass and run a voltmeter.
Click to expand...
Yep, I agree, the pictured ammeter likely has an internal movement problem. However, I would not consider converting to a voltmeter in this stock sounding scenario. The original passenger car ammeters was well constructed and can handle a great deal of current if the terminals/insulators were not abused. That particular ammeter has been repo’ d for some time now and likely not constructed to the same quality level as the originals. From the stated history, I would want to determine if it’s a reproduction, if so, find an original ammeter to replace it.
The only by-pass I recommend for an all-stock configuration is the bulkhead charge circuit Packard terminals, by-far the weakest link in the original design.
 
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72RoadrunnerGTX said:
Yep, I agree, the pictured ammeter likely has an internal movement problem. However, I would not consider converting to a voltmeter in this stock sounding scenario. The original passenger car ammeters was well constructed and can handle a great deal of current if the terminals/insulators were not abused. That particular ammeter has been repo’ d for some time now and likely not constructed to the same quality level as the originals. From the stated history, I would want to determine if it’s a reproduction, if so, find an original ammeter to replace it.
The only by-pass I recommend for an all-stock configuration is the bulkhead charge circuit Packard terminals, by-far the weakest link in the original design.
Click to expand...
As I stated before, it's extremely likely that this meter is the original one from the car. When I purchased the car in 2000 it was all original except for a new interior and a recent repaint.
 
stushug said:
As I stated before, it's extremely likely that this meter is the original one from the car. When I purchased the car in 2000 it was all original except for a new interior and a recent repaint.
Click to expand...
Then at a minimum I would try to inspect the ammeter connections and insulators, see if they are loose and/or are showing any signs of heat damage externally. The original movement is pretty simple, not really anything for it to hang up on other than the pivot points distorting out of place from possible heat exposure caused by poor ammeter connections.
 
Are you able to convert your Alt gauge to a volt?
I did mine.
Let me know
 
As I told… IMHO the needle moved out from the magnetic counterweight… just relocate and done.

everything you MUST bypass is the comments about the potential firing bomb the ammeter is (LOL). Once checked and serviced if needed, there is nothing wrong about it, as far you keep a good balanced charging system matched with the car load requirements, specially if is able to keep sourcing the required loads at iddle.

and the bulkhead bypass is the good advice not to be bypassed LOL
 
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Nacho-RT74 said:
Here I posted a draw about the counterweight and needle…

Post in thread 'Ammeter Quick Question and 95 AMP alternator question'
Ammeter Quick Question and 95 AMP alternator question

then you can also read the rest of the thread
Click to expand...
I took a closer look at the gauge, and it looks like the pointer is laying against the dial. All the other gauges have space between the needle and the face, so I'm assuming that the needle has become dislodged as you suggested. I'll have to pull out the cluster and investigate why. The wiring and the connectors on the back of the gauge look to be in perfect condition.
 
stushug said:
I just had the car out, and I noticed that the ammeter was pegged all the way to the right. This happened about a month ago also, but the next time I drove the car it was fine. When I got home, I put the headlights and high beams on to draw some current. At idle the lights were a tiny bit dimmer than when I revved the engine, which I would consider normal. My problem is, the gauge is staying pegged all the way to the right no matter what. The cluster was completely redone and whatever updates they normally do were applied to make it work with the newer electrical systems. What would be causing the gauge to act like this, when the charging system is working properly? I also noticed that the gauge stays pegged even after the key is turned off. I can't remember if it used to return to the center when the key turns off. The battery is only a year old and is fully charged.
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Should definitely put a volt meter across the battery terminals to make sure it's charging properly, before you continue.
 
Which wire going to the ammeter comes directly from the battery, the red wire or the black one?
 

​

Here are some pictures of my ammeter. When I removed the gauge lens, the needle was still stuck at +40. I barely touched it and it moved back to the center and it is moving freely now. I can see nothing wrong with it, nothing is warped, cracked or burned. I spoke with John Wolf, he's the one that restored my gauges around 2003. After describing the situation, he felt that the gauge is ok and it would be fine to re-install it. He suggested soldering the studs to the copper "ears" because they are just a friction fit in that square hole and it loosen up over time. This way they will have a nice tight bond in their setting. He also recommended installing a 40 amp fast blow fuse in line before the gauge for protection.That's why I asked which line was the hot lead earlier. Thanks @72RoadrunnerGTX for the answer! It will be a few days until I re-install, I had to order an inline fuse holder and replacement indicator lenses for the turn signals and brake light. I also cleaned the dashlight dimmer switch, it was acting a little flaky.

20230815_122230.jpg


20230815_140542.jpg


20230815_140550.jpg


20230815_140602.jpg
 
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stushug said:

​

He suggested soldering the studs to the copper "ears" because they are just a friction fit in that square hole and it loosen up over time. This way they will have a nice tight bond in their setting.
Click to expand...

with years of abuse the metal begins to get also stretched, so loosing also the contact. I fixed couple ammeters with the soldering method. Doesn’t need to get a huge amount of tin, bit quite enough to bond the stud to the copper ears, allowing an easier path of the current.

one of the ones I fixed got in fact both studs totally loosen, so I cleaned all the surfaces, sanded , soldering paste, attached tin on all contact faces and just needed to heat JUST A BIT, to get the stud easy soldered to the brass ears. Then added JUST A BIT more of tin on the top face of the brass ear.

once tin is bonded to both metals, you need less heat to solder both pieces together… but of course this was on an already “damaged“ ammeter
 
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Does anyone know where to source a replacement insulator? There is one one the inside and one on the outside of the ammeter gauge. The one on the inside was in pretty bad shape. I circled one in the attached picture. It's not mine, I found the picture in another thread.

insulator.jpg
 
Installed the inline fuse, waiting for the new indicator lenses and then I'll put it back together and re-install the dash!

20230817_134023.jpg
 
I just put everything back together and the ammeter is working again! Thanks to the great guys on FBBO. I couldn't have done it without your help. The pictures in order are: 1. Key off;
2. key on, engine off;
3. key on engine running..

20230822_171602.jpg


20230822_171610.jpg


20230822_171621.jpg
 
If the needle stays in the same position when running as noted in your third picture, you didn't fix anything. The needle should swing to the charge side immediately after starting, but should settle back to dead center after a few minutes.
 
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