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68 Coronet Longroof

@ckessel My Hobart 135 requires quite a bit of finessing to weld thinner sheet metal. I actually start about 3/4 of an inch away from the target, pull the trigger as I move the welding tip towards the material. This is sort of like having a 3/4 inch wire stickout but the movement keeps the gas at the weld. This technique seems to work when I start blowing through the thin stuff. I have never tried Tig. It on my list of things to try.
My MIG is a Lincoln Power Mig 215. I dropped down to the .023 wire and corresponding liner as a fix. Same story. Place I worked at some years ago had an ESAB unit similar to mine. I could weld on sheetmetal no problem with .035 wire. Currently have .030 in it. The TIG is going better, it's just been 3 years since I did any plus I'm in weird positions so I have to stretch out and toe the pedal. I have a finger control, no reostat-on/off only, on the machine but since I got a replacement under warranty, I only recently found the connection to the machine is different. Can't use it now. When I get a chance to upgrade my machines, I'm going to get a finger control that duplicates the pedal for amp control.
That's the thing with TIG I didn't quite understand. The toe pedal would make it difficult to access some areas where mig would shine. I didn't know there was a finger or reostat control option. I am using .023 and C25. So far, so good. I still have the torsion bar cross member and both front floors to tackle when I begin phase 2 of this resto. I just started her up after more than a year of sitting. Looking forward to driving the wagon again. This is one of the most comfortable classic car I have owned.
Today, like yesterday, I was stretched out in and out of the car with my boot toe on the pedal. Got about 80% welded, then ran out of Argon. Weird positions and not using a Tig for three years shows but less issues than the Mig. If I had the rheostat type finger control, it would be a big help. Next machine will have it.
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