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68' Superbee Race car. What is it worth?

Mstone68440RR

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Location
Escondido, CA
I am looking at a 1968 original Superbee that has been converted into a full race car. It has a 440 stroked to 512, 10 to 1 compression, Hydraulic cam .650, 4.25 crank, 7" rods. 727 full reverse manaul valve body. 489 rear end crush sleeve, strange gear, strange spool 4.56 gears, super stock springs. Edelbrock heads stock except for 1.84 Chevy Exhaust valves, 1050 Dominator carb. Full 8 point roll cage and race buckets.

Car runs consistent 11.40-11.50's with a best of 11 flat according to owner who has had it for 26 years.


Exterior is straight with small amounts of rust in the quarters, missing the front bumper and headlights. Interior is basically gutted for racing. Owner has door panels, dash and cluster out of the vehicle.

Car is currently turn key ready to race, owner fired it up over the phone and it started and sounded good ( like I can tell much over the phone )

It would be a blast to own a full race car, although I would eventually want to turn it back into more of a street/strip car with the interior being fully functional again. Install a front bumper, headlights and wiring to make it street legal again.

What would you consider a good price point to buy a vehicle of this nature?

Here are few pics from the owner:

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00707_j66rhpzgyZN_600x450.jpg


SDC119002.jpg


SDC118982.jpg
 
does the dash have the vin tag? title?
 
I dunno anything about race cars. I'd find out just what parts are missing. judge it against a similar street car, and deduct the cost of the missing parts. Little things like wiring for example can get expensive fast.
 
All that and it only runs mid 11's? Doesn't seem right. Gutted like that I wouldn't go more than 10k. Just based on these pics. Im not sure would go that high. What are you planning on doing with it?
 
I was going to say same thing, must be a heavy car to only run high 11's or the engine is close to stock
 
I'm thinking he is yanking your chain on it being a stroker. Bobtile here on the forum is not too far off those numbers with a much more complete car and a stock stroke 440.
 
depends on how much it's been hacked, how much of the original parts are still around...

According to NADA Guide, recent listed sold cars, it's worth $11k for a "driver" quality
{like a 10-20 footer, sorry but that car, isn't even at that level}
& up to $38k for a fresh & "fully restored" pristine car,
that's using the 440/375hp as an option, 1968 didn't have in a Super Bee...

a little more if it was an original 4 speed car, $12.5K- $41.5k
kind of looks like a 4 speed hump maybe, pretty dirty interior...

BUT !!

IMHFO a dedicated "race car", in that range/quality,
is only usually worth about 50% of the sum of the parts value, if they are any good,
a little more if it's a high dollar or quality build by a reputable shop
or has some real race history...
I don't believe that car has any real race history, other than locals stuff maybe...

Not that there's anything wrong with that, either...

That car falls into the 50% range IMHFO, it's a little rough too, does it have all the necessary up-to date SFI safety stuff, that's a big stickler too,
especially when buying an old racecar...
I'd check it out with a fine tooth come, it will no doubt probably will need to be,
completely gone thru again...

I've sold allot of racecars over the years...

good luck
 
body shell and motor ,which you know nothing about or what it looks like inside how much is it missing ?
 
Heard back from the owner regarding title, it is clean and he has it. Vin is intact on the dash ( currently out of car ) and no fender tag.

I know now the front bumper, headlights ( wiring?) and the majority of the interior is missing. Supposedly owner had two boxes of parts that are missing from a move and whereabouts are unknown at this time.

If I were to go after this car, I would want to race for a year or so as is before turning back into more of a street/strip cruiser. So I know that would entail quite a bit of work inside the car and taming the motor to make it street able. Just toying with idea for now since I wasn't really looking for another ride, but this one caught my eye.

Thanks for for the replies so far, all input is welcome.
 
How is a stroker with 4.56 gearing only running 11's?
 
Eddy RPM heads flow about the same as a set of max ported 906's out of the box and it's very possible to run mid 10's with max ported 906's and the Eddys are a better design. On the track, they should perform better. Yup, I say something is wrong with the combo or it's being raced at a high altitude. What else has been done to the chassis?
 
Eddy RPM heads flow about the same as a set of max ported 906's out of the box and it's very possible to run mid 10's with max ported 906's and the Eddys are a better design. On the track, they should perform better. Yup, I say something is wrong with the combo or it's being raced at a high altitude. What else has been done to the chassis?

I was going to say High Altitudes possibly also, I went best 10.03 @128 IIRC, with OOTB Eddy RPM's 84cc, with just a better valve job, a little cleaning, proper set-up & proper springs for my cam, in a heavy 68 RR with a 479ci/4.15" stroker, 291cfm OOTB, after a multi angle performance valve job, after clean-up they flowed like 303cfm IIRC
{I fully ported the Eddy's later, went 9.77 @ 135}
possible HP "in theory", 2.06hp per/cfm @ 303cfm = 624hp est.,
stock possible hp OOTB 2.06hp per/cfm @ 291cfm = 599hp est.

My point is, I doubt it's the heads, unless they are messed up, maybe a slight factor...
 
Here is my initial contact from the owner:


hey Mark. all I have for the interior is door panels and the dash with cluster. the car didn't have any interior when I got the car. now it has two racing buckets,8 point roll bar and belts. the car runs very consistent! depending on the air and your location 11.0 to 11.5. in Tucson the best et was a 11.10 and in deming or el paso 11.40 to 11.50. again it just depends on the air. this car is set up for racing. no cheap parts or cheap anything.
 
Tucson is at some altitude 2,389 ft above sea level, with no altitude or air density corrections... heat dry air probably more like 4,500 ft
 
Not a bad looking car. If you can get it for $10K I would think that would be good.
 
Hey guys. Well I did buy the car and I must say its a lot nicer than I was expecting. Yes it was raced at a high elevation and should run 10's here in San Diego. I did rejet the carb and seems to be very happy with the set up. As far as missing parts I have scored just about everything on this website (parts for sale and WTB) for a very reasonable price. Just need to install. (that's the fun part) The car now is licensed as a street car here in Ca. but still need to add an exhaust. The car should be ready for the street by mid November. As far as interior I'm going add bucket seats, center console, door panels and carpet. No back seat just carpet. I did buy a dash pad and reinstalled the dash and gages. looks pretty good.
 
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