'69 Big Block HP Exhaust manifolds - Sleeve nuts rounded off. How can I get them out?

[Dutchrebuild]

Last time I had a manifold giving me that much hassle, I beat the fu**ing thing to pieces with a sledge hammer

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks for the suggestions.

RJ - Seems to me it would be a hell of a lot easier if the stud came out. I have the replacement fasteners so I'm totally good with that. So drain the coolant down past the stud or all of it? How hot would I need to get the stud for it to come out? Are we talking glowing? I just picked up a temp reader so I think I can get pretty close if I have the right gas.

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[Black_Sheep]

Thanks for the suggestions.

RJ - Seems to me it would be a hell of a lot easier if the stud came out. I have the replacement fasteners so I'm totally good with that. So drain the coolant down past the stud or all of it? How hot would I need to get the stud for it to come out? Are we talking glowing? I just picked up a temp reader so I think I can get pretty close if I have the right gas.

Thanks,
Mikey

The redder the better…

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks. just putting this back out there as a shitty last resort - has anyone cut these off in the car before?

Dutch - It's seriously getting to that point.

On another note, what is the best way to lube these up with penetrating oil? Is the sleeve completely hollow to the stud? The replacements I got seem to have some kind of stop inside them so you cant see through them. All this time I've been shoving the little spray tube down the center and also inside the hole between the manifold and nut hoping some would get on the stud.

 

[Cudavic]

Thanks. just putting this back out there as a shitty last resort - has anyone cut these off in the car before?

Dutch - It's seriously getting to that point.

On another note, what is the best way to lube these up with penetrating oil? Is the sleeve completely hollow to the stud? The replacements I got seem to have some kind of stop inside them so you cant see through them. All this time I've been shoving the little spray tube down the center and also inside the hole between the manifold and nut hoping some would get on the stud.

I believe they are hollow. You could fit a 12" long snug peice of rubber hose inside the sleeve keeping it elevated and keep filling it with penetrating oil for a week. Then use a pipe nipple extractor to try and remove it.

https://www.amazon.com/Armour-Line-...5&sprefix=pipe+niple+extractor,aps,106&sr=8-9

 

[RJ Squirrel]

 

[MikeyM]

Yup.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Need to get that plucker glowing and then turn

 

[devinism]

If I remember correctly (from back when I actually worked...lol)... After it is on the edge of glowing (oxy-acetylene) spray it with water to cool it quickly. The douse the base with PB Blaster. Maybe even smack it with a hammer. The try to tighten it slightly and then break it loose.

 

[69conv]

And use stainless steel sleeve nuts with a little antiseize when you reinstall.

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks for the replies, all.

We'll keep on it as the schedule allows. Anti-seize = muy bueno.

I've worked on many cars over the years and currently own a dope *** 1973 VW Westy with a Mikey rebuilt aircooled 1.8L running a tire scorching 105 HP and have dealt with my fair share of rusted **** but these sleeve nuts are seriously from Ragnar's world of pain. Like... dude.. really... why couldn't Mopar just make the manifold holes more shallow and use regular ****!ing flange nuts? At this point, I'm considering asking my uncle for a few of his fire and demolition blades for my Sawzall.

Thanks all,
The saga continues.................

 

[MikeyM]

Well, the saga continues. Last weekend, after 1/2 day of heating these 2 sleeve nuts red hot then trying easy out and external extractor a couple times, neither of which worked, we welded a bolt into one of the sleeve nuts and waited for it to cool down. Then we got a 6pt wrench on it, worked it back and forth and twisted the bolt right off. I know I could pull the motor but that is a last resort.

I don't want to destroy the passenger manifold BUT a friend of mine actually has a couple and would sell me a replacement. IF I have to sacrifice the manifold, what would be the best way to go? I was thinking of removing all nuts (except the 2 seized ones) so I could try to smack it with a hammer hopefully getting it to move a bit then use an air chisel and very sharp blade, hitting it from the bottom on both sides of the bolt holes, kindof straddeling the bolt, going back and forth until it cracks. Maybe I could even get the blade on the actual nut.. not sure if that would even help. Anyone ever do something like this? Sucks but may be my last option.

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[RJ Squirrel]

You will probably just wind up breaking those two studs off doing that anyway, might as well pull the motor or remove the head and just do it right.
Those studs obviously are not coming out and will need to be drilled/tapped or helicoiled. A machine shop would do it for about 100 bucks, you have probably spent more than that on band-aids by now.

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks RJ. You think I could get to the head bolts with the manifold on from underneath with a 6 point box end?

 

[QuickBpBp]

Pull the engine. You might get the head bolts that way from #2 - #4 but between #6 and #8 no way as the manifold exhaust dumps there...

 

[RJ Squirrel]

Awww rats your right didnt think of that, no

EDIT- see above^^^^^^

 

[dadsbee]

Did ya try a can of Freeze Out and a stripped nut socket??

 

[MikeyM]

DB, I have not but i sure will. Haven't heard of it until you mentioned it then checked out a couple videos. I do have a set of Irwin external bolt extractors... I think they're the same as what you mention. I take it you have had good luck with that stuff?

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[kiwigtx]

Last time I had a manifold giving me that much hassle, I beat the fu**ing thing to pieces with a sledge hammer

 

[MikeyM]

Yea, man... it's seriously getting to that point.