7 Qt pan/dipstick reading

[440+6]

I went from a four qt plus 1 for filter, 5 total to a six qt plus 1 for filter, 7 total.
Eather way the dipstick reads exactly full.
When the pan was off i seated the dipstick and the full mark is exactly 1.5 inches below the block.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Oil further away from crank is better, think dry sump engines, less windage to rob power and keep oil in better shape.
So if seven quarts equals 2 quarts low on stock dipstick it's a win, win. Ample oil supply for higher RPM and further from crank.

 

[RemCharger]

Got a 440 Source 7 qt pan on my B motor. Put in seven quarts of oil, spun the oil pump to prelube/fill the filter, and it reads 2 qt low on the dipstick. Is this a normal thing? Not a big deal since I know where it reads when it's full but just curious. It also could be the wrong dipstick since the motor was in pieces when I got the car.

It sounds like some of the answers are geared towards the assumption that you're going on an all out bracket racing circuit pulling 7500rpm at every shift.
Or is this more of an average street driver?

 

[Jeff Peterson]

Drain the oil, drop filter and put 7qts in, put filter on, do NOT start and let it sit overnight, and check, wherever the oil is on the dipstick is full, now mark accordingly and run to fill filter check and add accordingly.

 

[MoparLeo]

I disagree. In the real world you would check the oil After the engine has run as some oil will stay in the lifters, filter and on the top of the heads and in the valley area.
Install 7 qts, plus the filters capacity, start, run til warmed up, shut off, wait a few minutes check the stick. Mark the stick.
Not complicated.
Do this. If you change the oil in any of your other cars, that have a factory dip stick. Try duplicating what you do on that one.
When/ how do you check the oil after changing it on any of your other cars ?
You can only check the oil with the engine not being run the first time, after that there will always be oil in the filter if the drainback valve works.

Here is from the Milo-Don catalog

383-440, 426 Chrysler Oil Pans​

- Street & Strip -​

LOW PROFILE​ Low profile design fits all A, B and E bodies and provides increased capacity and maximum available ground clearance. Increased capacity is an absolute must to handle the demands of big cubic inches and increased horsepower. Oil is properly controled which results in consistent oil pressure which is a must for Mopars. Includes high strength magnetic drain plug. Pan Capacity is 7 Qts. Plus Filter 7" Sump Depth 383, 400, 426, 440 30930 Oil Pump and Pick-Up Required:

 

[Jeff Peterson]

On a motor that has already been run, anywhere oil can puddle from filling will already be full

 

[MoparLeo]

That is true. I don't know if it is a driveway pan change or an engine stand pan change.
Just saying, it will only be the first oil/filter change once, after that there will be oil in other area's.

 

[Cranky]

I'm open to listening to the reasoning behind that

I'm with ya there! Full is full unless it eats oil. If that's the case try running it a quart low and if oil consumption stops have at'r, if it doesn't then the engine is simply sick.

In the aircraft world, air cooled, 4/6/8 cylinder opposed engines are generally 8 or 10 or 12 quart sumps. If you fill them to full the first quart damn near instantly goes out the breather hose and then they stay a quart low for 15 to 20 hours.... so anyone smart fills them a quart shy at oil change.

That said, I have NEVER had this issue with a 340/383/440 or even my Hemi. They run at the full mark and they basically stay at the full mark.... and I certainly don't baby any of them.

It sounds like some of the answers are geared towards the assumption that you're going on an all out bracket racing circuit pulling 7500rpm at every shift.
Or is this more of an average street driver?

Whenever someone mentions a 7 quart pan, I think about ones with the 'deep' sump and those lower the oil level below the stock settings as far as the dip stick goes. One of the main reasons it's lowered (even with 7 quarts in in) is to get the oil further away from the crankshaft to reduce windage. Windage robs horsepower. And running 6 quarts helps even more so long as the engine doesn't pump the pan dry but that's pretty easy to check too. I guess calling 440 Source would be a good idea but if the OP put in 7 quarts and it checked full before priming the engine and it was low after, then to me he needs to re-mark the stick.

 

[68-500]

Its one of those personal preference deals. When I think 7 qt pan, I think increased capacity, cooler oil, and maybe extended service intervals. I do see the lower oil level helping with windage and such. So I guess it boils down to whats the user’s end goal?

 

[MoparLeo]

Just don't forget the obvious. You will need a longer oil pickup that just touches the bottom of the pan.

 

[dvw]

Is this a fresh build that was just assembled? I find the first fill takes close to a quart extra. Why? Oil setting in pockets of the heads and block. Also you would be amazed checking oil the next morning after it has set. It will change. That all being said. The engine ran at the full level on this stick all its life. So you could fill it to full mark on the stick. Or you could remark the stick after the first oil change and just run 7 quarts. The advantage? Oil is further from the crank reducing windage. Personally I don't care how much oil is in the engine. I want to know how much is in the pan. I fill the pan prior to assembly. Then make the stick based on pan level and distance from the crank.
Doug

 

[Budnicks]

just as long as it (oil) isn't up into the windage tray
it needs to be/stay below, that point/oil levels,
no matter what the pan mfgr says the capacity is...

if it is the org. dipstick you're good (remark the dipstick for reference sake),
as long as, you have the right pick up on it, close to the pan floor/bottom
if you put 7 qts in & 1 qt in the filter (or filters) & it says 2 qts low,
it'll be way below the windage tray
I assume you're running something like that

Engine Masters has a great episode/video on this subject
you'd be surprised how much oil robs power, or loses pressure
too much oil getting aerated/foamy especially,
windage or crank hitting the actual oil in the pan, especially up top/RPMs
I think it was called "Pantastic"
They proved it, like several different pans & styles
(made more power on a lil' lower oil levels)
that the old wives tale to run an extra qt. of oil in most pans,
be it OE or aftermarket (unless it still stays below the windage tray at all RPMs)
is wrong/detrimental, has really bad results,
even could damage the engine

a good reputable company & a quality oil pan (usually with a kick out of some sorts)
is worth every bit of $$$ spent

the ol' rule of thumb was 1 qt for every 1k RPM,
with a HV/HP pump, is adequate
as long as it (oil drains &) all oil stays below the windage tray,
or away from the crank rotation, at all RPMs acceleration or deceleration too

 

[Jeff Peterson]

An old racer’s trick was to put a Petcock in the pan at the level you wanted your oil, zero guessing