70 Charger "SRT", 6.1 Hemi + T56

[MikkoV]

Been building my 70 Charger for a while, engine fitment now in process.

Few advices would be appreciated

My engine is from Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 07, originally thought that i could use its own headers but it is pretty tight (impossible?) fit with steering box and drivers side exhaust manifold. Gearbox is from LS1 Camaro, i rebuilded it and upgraded with extended stage2 kit. Will be mounted with quicktime bellhousing and Ram 9.5" twinplate clutch.

How are these usually positioned with stock k-member?, Ideas which location should i move engine? If i remove A/C compressor, i can take it further back, but planning to have A/C on car so... I didn´t get any motor or trans mounts, will fabricate my own.


It´s now about 1.5" on right of centerline and oilpan at k-frame level. How far back are these usually mounted? Transmission tunnel seems to need quite a bit modification for T56, but that´s not big problem.

I´ve also been playing around with idea of fabricating bolt on subframe add-on for steering rack, that would solve issue with steeringbox, and couple other problems too, like handling...

Engine management:
i´ve used Finnish ecu called Tatech in my previous projects, are familiar with that and bought it for this too, needs offcourse custom harness, but jeep harness can be used as base so pretty simple. Uses engines original sensors, just need drive-by-wire throttle body, and probably i don´t use MAF, just MAP. It has sequential 8 cylinder injection and ignition control, wideband lambda and autotune, 2 programmable digital outputs for fan etc control, controls warning lights, fuel pumps, rpm signal and egt meter. Pretty cheap and good one.

I have also 2gen Camaro with supercharged LS3 and it´s also controlled by Tatech.

 

[747mopar]

First off, Wow that's a really nice looking Charger and an interesting way of bolting a motor in there haha. I'd really have to go measure (I have a 69 Charger) but the motor is positioned to where you can just take out the 2 top transmission bolts from on top so the back of the motor is maybe an inch or 2 from the firewall. Left to right the motor sits quite a bit off to the passenger side, I would try to match that because you could end up going threw universals if the phasing is thrown off (universals need enough offset to work properly). I think the rack and pinion would be your best answer if there still isn't enough clearance, they sell kits if you just wanted to buy one. Sorry I'm not more help but most that have done this just go to an aftermarket K Member like Alterkation and I've yet to see somebody do it old school. I am curious to why you didn't just buy a Mopar spec'd T56 and save on the bell housing cost? I like what your doing and will be looking forward to seeing it complete. Good luck

 

[MikkoV]

First off, Wow that's a really nice looking Charger and an interesting way of bolting a motor in there haha. I'd really have to go measure (I have a 69 Charger) but the motor is positioned to where you can just take out the 2 top transmission bolts from on top so the back of the motor is maybe an inch or 2 from the firewall. Left to right the motor sits quite a bit off to the passenger side, I would try to match that because you could end up going threw universals if the phasing is thrown off (universals need enough offset to work properly). I think the rack and pinion would be your best answer if there still isn't enough clearance and they sells kits if you just wanted to buy one. Sorry I'm not more help but most that have done this just go to an aftermarket K Member like Alterkation and I've yet to see somebody do it old school. I am curious to why you didn't just buy a Mopar spec'd T56 and save on the bell housing cost? I like what your doing and will be looking forward to seeing it complete. Good luck

Thanks

Not problem with universals, assuming you meant driveshaft joints? I will leave some angle to those.

Got GM Tremec cause i did get one very reasonable priced. It was stuck on 4th gear and as usual 3-4 syncros totally trashes. Got Upgrade kit to it from thegearbox.com and it´s now better than new and total costs under 1000€ + bellhousing 700€. New tr6060 here about 3000-3500€. 1€ is about 1.4$. Taxes and custom fees are quite bad in here, and ofcourse shipping costs.

I´ll rather do steering conversion myself if i want one, ready kits are bit highly priced, and still not meant for engine swaps. And i got pretty good ideas what kind of steering geometry i like.

 

[747mopar]

Don't blame you, I cringe at the prices they want for allot of things. If you do a rack "yourself" be sure to post what you used and how you did it because there's plenty of us that are pondering it ourselves. Good luck

 

[MikkoV]

I removed steering box today and cut away flanges from Jeep headers, they cleared nicely with torsion bars even engine positioned slightly to passenger side. But would need atleast inch thinner steering box to clear. I dont think that borgeson is that much smaller?

Option no.1 is try to go with those and do my custom rack&pinion.

But just to be clear. Does TTi headers fit with original steering box, and T56 gearbox with driver side starter?

And is there difference in 5.7 and 6.1 headers.

http://shop.dougsheaders.com/doug-s...68-74-hi-temp-black-coating.html#.VKmuvyusV8E

Could have these at reasonable price, but it says only 5.7?

 

[kb67mopar]

I haven't tried the headers (can't afford em) but I can tell you that there is a difference between 5.7 and 6.1 exhaust ports. They are in the same location and so are the bolt holes but the shape is different. I'd suspect maybe putting 5.7 headers on a 6.1 could cause leaks or at least some restriction? Not saying I know for sure they won't work but I wouldn't try if you can't return them for your money back.

 

[MikkoV]

Those Dougs Headers are with D-shape ports and fit 6.1 and 6.4. Found ones with black coating for 400$ and ordered ones.

Didn´t realize how i could make road legal setup with Jeep headers and rack & pinion mounted back of K-member. Rack mounting is relatively easy but routing axle to clolumn is not. In my mind it would need 3 u-joints between rack and additionally supported axle to connect to steering column. So ordered headers and maybe will be sticking with steering box, maybe upgrade to Firm Feel or Borgeson.

Other thing crossed my mind today. Swap spindles from left-> right and so on and steering arms point forward. And place rack front of axle, would sit nicely front of oil pan sump. Offcourse requires custom work and lots of cutting K-member, but seems relatively easy job. I would think that right steering geometry should be found with rack placement.

I think that i wont do this, mainly because our local laws, but one thing to think for...

(And sorry for language mistakes, my English isn´t that good)

 

[5.7 hemi]

TTI headers bolt right and clear the factory power steering box, torsion bars and the transmission.

 

[MikkoV]

Got my Dougs headers yeasterday, quick test fit, and seems that they will clear stock steering box and torsion bars, but go pretty close to torsion bars, maybe max 1/4" gap. And seem also to clear longer idler / pitman arm, fast ratio ones.

So setting engine to right place, 1.5" to right, but how high normally. Is Milodon oilpan lowest point on k-member level, lower or above it?

Engine/gearbox angle, i´ve been reading that should be in same angle that pinion is when accelerating? Does that count to cars meant for drag racing or also pure street cars? To get this vibration free on steady speed is lot more important than how it launches...

 

[MikkoV]

I did bent drivers side header a bit to make descent clearance to torsion bars. Good news that seems to with fit normal style starter and fast ratio pitman&idler arm. In TTi instructon say that dont fit with them.

Engine mounts pretty much done, cutted Jeep mounts to right height and added bit of metal

And one problem / question?

Can anyone tell, what is pinion angle in Charger, assuming that car is in level measured from sills? 8 3/4 rear end, leafs springs.

My car is on 2 pillar lift, so measuring that is bit of pain. My guesses are that gearbox should point somewhere around 2 degrees down?

 

[kb67mopar]

I can't answer that question but I can say on my Coronet with my stock 8 3/4 with leaf springs that I put my drive train at 3 degrees down. I don't get any drive line vibration.

 

[MikkoV]

Bit of progress, gearbox tunnel quite ready, still smoothing and filler, and paint. But next, gearbox mount.


Btw. does everyone sees 4 pics below, im not quite sure of my flickr settings...

Rearside of tunnel isn´t that pretty when looking inside of car but that will be under center console so who cares...

 

[keepat]

Yes all 4 pictures look great, nice job on the cross member! Look forward to a few pictures with the trans installed.
Thanks!
Pat

 

[MikkoV]

I´ve been working on my car occasionally, but not much Hemiswap related stuff, just generall stuff so haven´t been updating this, some pics if interested ->
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129610973@N03/albums/72157649635497619

Question: Wiring chematic/diagram for my engine? it´s from 2007 SRT8 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Any ideas where it could be found, i´m using standalone aftermarket ECU, so this would help with engine harness...

 

[usaroadrunner]

my suggestion is to call hotwire harness tell them what you got an buy a harness from them. i wired mine up in no time, it will save ya lots of time. jmo

 

[MikkoV]

I´m using Finnish Ecu, called Tatech. I´m familiar with that from my previous projects and i can use quite nicely Jeeps harness, just need for diagram.

I have that Tatech also in my LS3 powered supercharged 2gen Camaro, for that we made harness from scratch.

 

[MikkoV]

Looking for P/S lines to my Charger, anyone know what fittings Borgeson box and Jeep P/S pump uses.