71 Charger suspension rebuild and brake upgrade

[mrsnicks]

So I've buying the parts I need slowly to do 2 things.

1. Rebuild the front suspension
2. Upgrade to factory front disc brakes (pin type)


For part #1
I have all 4 new tie rods, solid tie rod sleeves, new upper ball joints, lower ball joints, idler arm, uca bushings. I know I still need to buy the parts to rebuild the lower control arm.

My question comes into what else do I need? New torsion bar...... clips? boots? New strut rod..... bushings?

Also looking for any removal tips for the strut rods and torsion bars and any other tips on the front suspension rebuild.


For part #2
I have the correct disc brake master cylinder, brake spindles, disc brake caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, disc brake hoses, timken set2 and set6 bearing sets, new spindle nut kits, dust caps. I just ordered the correct distribution block/proportioning valve combo and will order a disc brake line set from inlinetube.com.

I'm going to be swapping out the brake lines while I have the engine out, because I know that line that goes side to side under the booster will be a PITA with the engine in. I'm not sure when I'll do the rear brakes because they can be done after I drop the engine in.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks,

Patrick

 

[mrsnicks]

Well. I have the lower control arms out, pitman arm removed and the torsions bars disconnected. Have to remove the upper control arms and strut rods. I was able to remove the torsion bars by prying on the lower control arms, wasn't too bad and didn't need a special tool. I got the UCA bushings out with a flat chisel and air chisel. I sand blasted and painted the drag link and another set of upper control arms I had. Almost time for reassembly.

Patrick

 

[chargersb71]

Getting ready to sand blast mine now. Then it will be ready for paint need to upgrade my torsion bars. I just removed my whole K frame made it easy for me. Post some pics when you get it all assembled. Sounds like you got everything covered.

 

[mrsnicks]

Bought a 12 ton shop press. Got the UCA bushings out, UCAs blasted and painted and new UCA bushings in. Got the LCA pivot shafts out, need to weld a washer to the outer shield and press those out, blast & paint the LCAs and the press in the new bushings on the shaft and then the shaft itself.

Quick Question. are the lca's different between disc and drum cars?

Patrick

 

[5.7 hemi]

Should be the same.

 

[mrsnicks]

I've read that some parts need to be torqued with the wheels on the ground and car's weight on them. Which parts are those? And which parts do you torque while it's up on jack stands?

 

[Coronet 14]

You can torque the steering arm nut. Don't forget to put new bushing on pivot shaft then press into LCA. I found out hard way. Mancini Racing sells a kit to remove the shell. Then you can use your press against the allen head screw to push out shell. That's how I did it

 

[mrsnicks]

I was able to press out the shafts with my shop press. Inner sleeve came out with the shaft. I welded a washer to the outer sleeve and used a bolt to press that out.

Decided my shafts were too pitted to use again so waiting on cash to buy new pivot shafts. In the meantime my PST LCA stiffening/boxing plates came in the mail. Going to weld those on.

Patrick

 

[mrsnicks]

Update. Everything is bolted on and together. Just need to put fluid in the brake lines and adjust the ride height. Question on the Upper Control Arm cam bolts. Should they be tighted down while the car is jacked up? After the ride height is set?

I know they'll be adjusted during my alignment but I don't want to break anything by doing it out of order if you will.