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72 charger ignition conversion questions

moparnewbie

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Hi guys, my names Mason and I work at a classic car restoration shop. Had a customer buy a 72 charger with a 400 in it. It had the orange 4 pin ECU and factory distributor and some seriously tampered with factory wires.

So I pulled the harness, chopped out all the factory ignition wires because im converting it to a ready to run drop in distributor and coil.

Now the questions come as I do not understand why the alternator wireing connects to a ballast resistor on the firewall. I took off the white wire off because it went to the ECU so the only wires attached to it are the dark blue wire with the black jumper to the terminal above it, and the brown wire(which is 2 browns in one plug) is on the adjacent side.

Now they had one end of the brown wire hooked to another ballast next to the giant accell super coil that used to be in it. I know I cant use ballast power with the drop in dizzy, but does the ballast still need to remain for the alternator to function?
Should I power the dizzy and coil off the starter solinoid switch on the drivers inner fender? or inside from the fuse panel.

The other thing I found odd is the black and yellow wire from the ecu was hooked to the ned side on the coil, but I found a wire spliced into it running into the firewall to a house hold wire nut and a wire in the dash. Anyone have a clue as to maybe why someone would do such a thing?

I really appreciate any help I can get and will give any more information needed. Ive been working on muscle cars for years but this is the first 70's mopar ive messed with.
 
So after doing some testing I figure out that one wire is 12v on crank, and the other is 12v constant. So If I wire those both to the positive on the coil everything should work correctly and I can deleate the ballast correct? Someone please correct me if im wrong.
Thanks in advance
 
one image worths thousands of words ( colors are aprox to the reality )

72engineharness1ax4.jpg


notes to specific questions

alternator doesn't conect to ballast, is just that one of the fields gets the power from the main splice before ballast to full fill this field from ign key. Blue wire is the RUN circuit.

Mopar alternators from 70 are regulated by negative field sourced by the regulator. Regulator gets the negative field from chassis, then feeds the regulated negative field by the green wire.

Ballast brown wires are one from ing switch and one from coil. The one to the coil is of course the coil source, Which in normal operation is sourced by the blue RUN circuit through the ballast. When cranking the brown wire coming from ing switch is the source in START, bypassing the ballast for better start up. Blue wire power is cut on that moment from ign switch

Run/Start circuits doesn't have nothing to do on charging system, more than just feed the regulator and alt field in RUN through the blue big splice. but ballast has nothing to do with charging system.

4 pins ECU works the same than the diagram 5 pins, just that the 5th pin on 5 pins ECUs gets an outside source from the secondary circuit of ballast... 4 pins ECUS changed this to get this secondary circuit frokm inside of the unit, no more exterior secondary source

- - - Updated - - -

so yes, to run a READY TO RUN DIST, will need to splice together blue ( RUN ) and brown ( START ) wires coming from ign switch to get power in both stances of the ign system.

There are several ways to make it, splice wires is one of them. For "original stock look" I was made another way, keeping the ballast, just in case get back the stock system in the future, but you already chopped it so, who cares now LOL
 
You are the man. I really appreciate the info. the factory wireing has been so butchered by the PO that it really didnt matter, plus it has a full spare ignition harness in the trunk so if it ever became an issue i could use the other harness which is why I chopped it up for looks cause the customer bought the car for his wife and there all about looks and sound haha. Thanks again I will definatly keep this site in mind for info in the future.
 
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