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73 charger dash harness

Randy73

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While replacing my headlight harness, I found out some idiot drilled out the dash harness and ran a wire straight through for the main power wire and then spliced into the harness on the dash side.

So I search M&H website, get the dash harness part number and go to yearone and I just about fell out of my chair when I saw the price.

$599.95 for the dash harness, my vette harnes for the whole car was $1095 and it has a lot more wiring and connectors, so after venting a little, I have to ask is Yearone putting a screwing to us or is M&H and yearone taking turns?

And does anybody else make a stock harness?
 
Randy
Painless makes an aftermarket universal harness, their part #

P/N 10127

Not exact like OEM, but is an alternative to get you going
 
You are talking about the 10 gauge wire from the starter relay thru the bulkhead connector to the ammeter? This is where most dash fires start. I just did mine due the bulkhead connector melting. 16 gauge fuseable link soldered to 10 gauge straight thru bulkhead connector eliminating the spade terminals to the ammeter.

Forgot to add, this was caused by a short in the ac/heater motor wires that I also fixed. Hopefully in your case, your short was also corrected.
 
Well mine should be fixed, I replaced the engine, a/c and forward light harnesses and am about to do the dash harness.

Where can I get new harnesses for the driving lights?

Just found those cut apart, guess when the guy had the short, he started cutting any suspect harnesses.
 
You are talking about the 10 gauge wire from the starter relay thru the bulkhead connector to the ammeter? This is where most dash fires start. I just did mine due the bulkhead connector melting. 16 gauge fuseable link soldered to 10 gauge straight thru bulkhead connector eliminating the spade terminals to the ammeter.

Forgot to add, this was caused by a short in the ac/heater motor wires that I also fixed. Hopefully in your case, your short was also corrected.

Lots of people do this fix to eliminate the ammeter, and the melting bulkhead problems. Here's the before and after schematics if anyone needs them
 

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I didn't bypass the ammeter. I ran the correct 16 gauge fuseable link and 10 gauge, but eliminated the blade connections on either side of the bulkhead connector.
 
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