8 3/4” rear end

[old guys rule]

Canby confusing at times. Will a 1350 fit a 741 case? What about

What what about axles?

 

[Cranky]

Canby confusing at times. Will a 1350 fit a 741 case? What about

Not unless you replace the yoke to accept the 1350 joint.....

 

[old guys rule]

Not unless you replace the yoke to accept the 1350 joint.....

Thanks. Forgot to ask you, do you need to disassemble the third member to change the Yoke on a 741? Are the axles the same?

 

[Cranky]

Thanks. Forgot to ask you, do you need to disassemble the third member to change the Yoke on a 741? Are the axles the same?

Axles are the same from 66 up....or maybe late 65. The rears with the tapered axles are generally different but I have no experience with them. And you do not have to disassemble the 3rd member to change the yoke but you do need to pay attention to the preload on the pinion bearings. On the 41 and 42, that's set with shims so you should be able to swap yokes and not worry. The 89 is a different story.....

 

[old guys rule]

Axles are the same from 66 up....or maybe late 65. The rears with the tapered axles are generally different but I have no experience with them. And you do not have to disassemble the 3rd member to change the yoke but you do need to pay attention to the preload on the pinion bearings. On the 41 and 42, that's set with shims so you should be able to swap yokes and not worry. The 89 is a different story.....

 

[old guys rule]

I was concerned with the splines also. Thanks for the info.

 

[old guys rule]

Also the excellent. Sorry I forgot. There's a difference with the block in the center of the unit right?

 

[old guys rule]

Also the excellent. Sorry I forgot. There's a difference with the block in the center of the unit right?

Axel length

 

[Cranky]

Axles are 30 spline...sorry. The thrust block is the same width between the 'modern' rears but the ones in the open diffs and the cone LSD's are different and so are the ones in the clutch type LSD's and axle length varies between car lines.

 

[old guys rule]

Axles are 30 spline...sorry. The thrust block is the same width between the 'modern' rears but the ones in the open diffs and the cone LSD's are different and so are the ones in the clutch type LSD's and axle length varies between car lines.

sorry to pester you but what are l s d psych

Axles are 30 spline...sorry. The thrust block is the same width between the 'modern' rears but the ones in the open diffs and the cone LSD's are different and so are the ones in the clutch type LSD's and axle length varies between car lines.

So the 741 unit has different spline?

 

[old guys rule]

sorry to pester you but what are l s d psych

So the 741 unit has different spline?

 

[old guys rule]

Damn spell check

 

[Cranky]

30 spline axles for all the 8 3/4 rears. The yoke splines did change but I don't remember the years. All I know is what I get in to work on lol. There are 4 yokes though.....fine and course spline and large and small u-joint of each. I have never bought one of those 'adapter' u-joints though because there was always the right yoke on the shelf here. The adapter u-joints ain't real expensive but they ain't exactly cheap either.

 

[old guys rule]

30 spline axles for all the 8 3/4 rears. The yoke splines did change but I don't remember the years. All I know is what I get in to work on lol. There are 4 yokes though.....fine and course spline and large and small u-joint of each. I have never bought one of those 'adapter' u-joints though because there was always the right yoke on the shelf here. The adapter u-joints ain't real expensive but they ain't exactly cheap either.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate your patience. Dave

 

[Moparman2]

It's an easy swap
just be careful you dont lose the button that the ends of the axles butt up against otherwise you wont be able to set the axle end play
(note if your axles have green bearings you wont have this button)
lastly when its all together if the U-joint doesnt fit in the pinion yoke its much easier to change the U-joint then it is the yoke

Ok, thanks for the help.

 

[MoparLeo]

Just a reminder from an earlier post, make sure to service the axle bearings while the differential is removed.
They are seldom if ever looked at until something goes awry.
Replace the housing side seals and repack the tapered bearings before you slip the axles back in.
Your service manual has all the procedures and torque settings.

 

[Erik Morris]

If you do not have a factory service manual or a Chilton's manual we can help you with the axle end play adjustment.
Pickup a housing gasket and axle seals.
Also there is a flange seal kit you will want to have on hand.
Also once you have the axles out and all nuts off the center chunk take one nut and thread it back onto one of the top studs a few turns.
That is just for while your draining the 90 weight, prop the bottom open and go have a cold one.

Found your post while searching for driveline info. 69 Charger 8 3/4 489 case. Chunk and axles all removed without having made any alignment marks. (Hey, I was excited, sorry). Anything I need to be on the lookout for when I go to reinstall these parts? I've already got all of the gaskets and oil seals.

 

[1967coronet]

Found your post while searching for driveline info. 69 Charger 8 3/4 489 case. Chunk and axles all removed without having made any alignment marks. (Hey, I was excited, sorry). Anything I need to be on the lookout for when I go to reinstall these parts? I've already got all of the gaskets and oil seals.

Make sure the axle spacer button is in the center of the unit if your running the oem style tapered bearings.
Can not set axle end play if its missing.
Check the axle bearings and races , now is the time to replace if needed.
If your using the same bearings after they are cleaned you can repack them on the axle with a needle tip for your grease gun.
After the chunk is installed and seals and axles are in follow the service manual for setting end play.
If you need help with that just ask.