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8 3/4 or Dana 60?

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EngineerDoug

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Hello all,

I am doing some more forward thinking about how to put my '68 Coronet back together and have a general question. The car came with a '489 8 3/4 rear. I need to change gears, install a Sure-grip, and do a total rebuild on it. It looks like the parts will run about $800 or so, and I will do the work myself.

Before I go this direction, I need to consider whether it would be better to put a Dana 60 out back. This will be more expensive, even if I can find a truck Dana and convert it over for a B-body. So the biggest question is, will the 8 3/4 handle the following:

440 stroked to ~500 cubes
Aluminum heads
Roller cam?
Six Pack setup
Torqueflite
Expected power about 500 - 550 hp

Now bear in mind this will be a street car. I expect the rear to live a long life. Aside from the occasional "open the end carbs" blast, I don't beat on my machinery very often. No big sticky slicks, either.

I know the reputation of the 8 3/4, but I'd welcome your thoughts on keeping it versus switching to a Dana. The Dana is super cool looking, but I am not anxious to spend the extra money for it. The motor is gonna cost enough....

Thanks!
 
If you don't plan on racing it or getting traction with big sticky tires I wouldn't worry about the 8 3/4, should hold up fine
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
Plans change, do the Dana now. You'll be happy you did.
Click to expand...
That's what happen to me, started the rebuild on my 8 3/4, called dr diff and he told me do you plan on leaving the thing out on the street somewhere. lol so dana I went and am very happy not only strong but looks great

IMG_1260.JPG
 
1967coronet440 said:
That's what happen to me, started the rebuild on my 8 3/4, called dr diff and he told me do you plan on leaving the thing out on the street somewhere. lol so dana I went and am very happy not only strong but looks great

View attachment 427246
Click to expand...
Not that is a hot chick with ENHANCED goodies!

Bullet proof...Nice!
 
So if I did decide to switch to the Dana, how do I go about finding a truck Dana that will be suitable for my B-body? That is to say, is there any guide that will walk me through what is required to modify a truck Dana? I can weld on spring perches but am not willing/equipped to shorten tubes, install new end flanges, etc. I need to know what would be involved if I go this route...new axles, what else?

Or maybe I would be better served by just going to somebody like Dr Diff and buying a complete ready-to-go unit?

Feedback appreciated; thanks.
 
EngineerDoug said:
So if I did decide to switch to the Dana, how do I go about finding a truck Dana that will be suitable for my B-body? That is to say, is there any guide that will walk me through what is required to modify a truck Dana? I can weld on spring perches but am not willing/equipped to shorten tubes, install new end flanges, etc. I need to know what would be involved if I go this route...new axles, what else?

Or maybe I would be better served by just going to somebody like Dr Diff and buying a complete ready-to-go unit?

Feedback appreciated; thanks.
Click to expand...
Give dr diff a call, if nothing else you can get the correct housing from him and build the rest yourself.
 
I'm surprised to hear so many steering away from the 8.75? I've heard nothing but good things about them especially for a street car. Obviously the Dana is better just seams like an overkill but nothing wrong with beeing on the safe side.
I'm in the same hp range as you and have had no issues running 11" wide performance street tires.
 
747mopar said:
I'm surprised to hear so many steering away from the 8.75? I've heard nothing but good things about them especially for a street car. Obviously the Dana is better just seams like an overkill but nothing wrong with beeing on the safe side.
I'm in the same hp range as you and have had no issues running 11" wide performance street tires.
Click to expand...
I do not disagree but I was born and bread on Dana's and four speeds...They are a marriage made it Heaven...Ma Mopar thought so too...

Whats the overkill? The only overkill is the buy in price.....
 
If you go Dana truck I'd get one with a sure-grip.
There are things like number of splines on the axles etc. . Buying pieces one at a time can be expensive and time consuming. Also oops I bought the wrong part, I know! Bought a sure-grip on ebay it came in looked at it ok. I was going to put it together oops Dana 70 s/g with 23 splines. Bought another s/g wrong splines and switched the guts, they inter change. I pieced a Dana never put it together, sold it for $800 only need assembly, perches welded on and brake shoes and hardware. I lost a few bucks but freeing up the money was worth it.
So what I'm saying think long and hard about piecing one together.
 
Fran,

Your concerns are exactly why I would like to scope this out before I start buying stuff that won't fit together. And if I buy a complete Dana 60 ready to go it will cost me 3 times as much as rebuilding my 8 3/4.

Sniffing around on the web it seems that a truck rear would require three main modifications:

1) Switch the housing ends - can get new for mebbe $90.
2) Install new axles - cost mebbe $300.
3) Weld on new spring perches - cost mebbe $20.

OK I can find a place around here that will take care of item #1 - guessing $200. Everything else (gears, sure-grip, etc) is about the same as what I would spend on the 8 3/4.

So if I can find a truck Dana for about $500 that means the conversion would cost me in $1100 more than doing the 8 3/4. That all adds up to about $1900. It might be better to buy a complete setup from Dr Diff. The only killer will be the shipping to the SF Bay Area.

Just thinking out loud, weighing my options. Any serious objections to my reasoning?
 
EngineerDoug said:
Fran,

Your concerns are exactly why I would like to scope this out before I start buying stuff that won't fit together. And if I buy a complete Dana 60 ready to go it will cost me 3 times as much as rebuilding my 8 3/4.

Sniffing around on the web it seems that a truck rear would require three main modifications:

1) Switch the housing ends - can get new for mebbe $90.
2) Install new axles - cost mebbe $300.
3) Weld on new spring perches - cost mebbe $20.

OK I can find a place around here that will take care of item #1 - guessing $200. Everything else (gears, sure-grip, etc) is about the same as what I would spend on the 8 3/4.

So if I can find a truck Dana for about $500 that means the conversion would cost me in $1100 more than doing the 8 3/4. That all adds up to about $1900. It might be better to buy a complete setup from Dr Diff. The only killer will be the shipping to the SF Bay Area.

Just thinking out loud, weighing my options. Any serious objections to my reasoning?
Click to expand...
Complete unit to your door from dr diff is going to be about $3000
 
EngineerDoug said:
Fran,

Your concerns are exactly why I would like to scope this out before I start buying stuff that won't fit together. And if I buy a complete Dana 60 ready to go it will cost me 3 times as much as rebuilding my 8 3/4.

Sniffing around on the web it seems that a truck rear would require three main modifications:

1) Switch the housing ends - can get new for mebbe $90.
2) Install new axles - cost mebbe $300.
3) Weld on new spring perches - cost mebbe $20.

OK I can find a place around here that will take care of item #1 - guessing $200. Everything else (gears, sure-grip, etc) is about the same as what I would spend on the 8 3/4.

So if I can find a truck Dana for about $500 that means the conversion would cost me in $1100 more than doing the 8 3/4. That all adds up to about $1900. It might be better to buy a complete setup from Dr Diff. The only killer will be the shipping to the SF Bay Area.

Just thinking out loud, weighing my options. Any serious objections to my reasoning?
Click to expand...
Call DR Diff he can hook you up with everything you need for the conversion.....Your key worry is welding up the perches and end caps correctly....
 
EngineerDoug said:
Fran,

Your concerns are exactly why I would like to scope this out before I start buying stuff that won't fit together. And if I buy a complete Dana 60 ready to go it will cost me 3 times as much as rebuilding my 8 3/4.

Sniffing around on the web it seems that a truck rear would require three main modifications:

1) Switch the housing ends - can get new for mebbe $90.
2) Install new axles - cost mebbe $300.
3) Weld on new spring perches - cost mebbe $20.

OK I can find a place around here that will take care of item #1 - guessing $200. Everything else (gears, sure-grip, etc) is about the same as what I would spend on the 8 3/4.

So if I can find a truck Dana for about $500 that means the conversion would cost me in $1100 more than doing the 8 3/4. That all adds up to about $1900. It might be better to buy a complete setup from Dr Diff. The only killer will be the shipping to the SF Bay Area.

Just thinking out loud, weighing my options. Any serious objections to my reasoning?
Click to expand...
Go to Strange Eng website and see if there is a west coast dealer?
 
747mopar said:
I'm surprised to hear so many steering away from the 8.75? I've heard nothing but good things about them especially for a street car. Obviously the Dana is better just seams like an overkill but nothing wrong with beeing on the safe side.
I'm in the same hp range as you and have had no issues running 11" wide performance street tires.
Click to expand...
You hit the nail on the head. The Dana is overkill for this car. But hey... if money is not an issue... :)
 
Bruzilla said:
You hit the nail on the head. The Dana is overkill for this car. But hey... if money is not an issue... :)
Click to expand...
Why don't you explain why a Dana is overkill? Since you appear to have vast knowledge in this area...Do not include the obvious aka cost.....

Specifics....True specifics, not hearsay...
 
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