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8 3/4 or Dana 60?

I built mine,S60 housing and axles "30 spline" lil over a grand...4.10 trac-lock 30 spline out of a cummins pick up 200.00 and 200.00 for assembly...u could prolly use the 8 3/4 axles also..."30 spline"...with green bearings altogether 1500.00 + or -..ooo n thats truck rear cover I picked up for $15

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Why don't you explain why a Dana is overkill? Since you appear to have vast knowledge in this area...Do not include the obvious aka cost.....

Specifics....True specifics, not hearsay...

You can't hog tie a debate rebuttal like that because it fits your agenda...it's overkill BECAUSE of the cost. For what the OP is trying accomplish a well built 8 3/4 is sufficient. There plenty of people out there running similar setups as the one the OP is trying planning and have no issues whatsoever, so why go Dana? By the way...don't include the obvious...it's stronger.

Why a 8 3/4 is sufficient:

-Clearly stated it's a street tire with street tires
-TF trans
-Power goals are in line with ten's of thousands of other people who run trouble free 8 3/4 rear ends.

Is the Dana stronger? Yes. You'd be hard pressed to find anyone that would argue any different. But that doesn't mean it's the only choice ever and no other options should even be considered. One could argue that you'd be better of with a 9" over the Dana, but that's doesn't mean the Dana is bad. It reminds of when guys talk about swapping out a 904 for 727...it's not always cut and dry. You'll find guys who race and defend a 904 to the death for their application.

If the OP is so inclined, it's been recommended to me that if you're going to start putting power down that sticks at that level your best bet is to brace the housing. It will twist and distort which will cause problems with your internals that will lead to big issues.
 
You can't hog tie a debate rebuttal like that because it fits your agenda...it's overkill BECAUSE of the cost. For what the OP is trying accomplish a well built 8 3/4 is sufficient. There plenty of people out there running similar setups as the one the OP is trying planning and have no issues whatsoever, so why go Dana? By the way...don't include the obvious...it's stronger.

Why a 8 3/4 is sufficient:

-Clearly stated it's a street tire with street tires
-TF trans
-Power goals are in line with ten's of thousands of other people who run trouble free 8 3/4 rear ends.

Is the Dana stronger? Yes. You'd be hard pressed to find anyone that would argue any different. But that doesn't mean it's the only choice ever and no other options should even be considered. One could argue that you'd be better of with a 9" over the Dana, but that's doesn't mean the Dana is bad. It reminds of when guys talk about swapping out a 904 for 727...it's not always cut and dry. You'll find guys who race and defend a 904 to the death for their application.

If the OP is so inclined, it's been recommended to me that if you're going to start putting power down that sticks at that level your best bet is to brace the housing. It will twist and distort which will cause problems with your internals that will lead to big issues.
Read the previous post please...he stated overkill for his build..

It's not.overkill it's a choice.....a better one actually

There is no hog tie with that question period!
 
Fair enough.

It's overkill because a properly setup 8 3/4 can handle his application without issues.
Completely, agree! And with that cost factored in most will spend more for a bigger rear....
 
Read the previous post please...he stated overkill for his build..

It's not.overkill it's a choice.....a better one actually

There is no hog tie with that question period!
The only reason I stated overkill is because if a job can be carried out reliably by a less expensive option than yes going the more expensive route is an overkill... as far as price. Now if you were to lay the 2 in front of me and say pick one.. I'm gonna pick the Dana.
 
Completely, agree! And with that cost factored in most will spend more for a bigger rear....

But that's why it's overkill...if it's not needed but you do it anyway, it's overkill.

Don't get me wrong we all do it, myself included.
 
As has been said, many times, the 8.75". properly set-up will work fine for your application. Not only do I run one in my car with a 4 speed and 13.5" M/Ts, but I also ran one in one of my drag cars (63 Corvette,4 speed, 5:38s, ladder bars and 12" full slicks). I did use aftermarket axles and a spool on the race car and never had a problem shedding gears or twisting housings. An upside is that it's easy to change pumpkins if you decide to do a cross-country trip...
 
As has been said, many times, the 8.75". properly set-up will work fine for your application. Not only do I run one in my car with a 4 speed and 13.5" M/Ts, but I also ran one in one of my drag cars (63 Corvette,4 speed, 5:38s, ladder bars and 12" full slicks). I did use aftermarket axles and a spool on the race car and never had a problem shedding gears or twisting housings. An upside is that it's easy to change pumpkins if you decide to do a cross-country trip...
This is what I love about them, I keep an extra pig and can swap one in half an hour no sweat.
 
Read the previous post please...he stated overkill for his build..

It's not.overkill it's a choice.....a better one actually

There is no hog tie with that question period!
No. It's just overkill. Yes, a Dana will handle all the power he's going to make, but so will an 8.75. There is no benefit aside from bragging rights to be gained from a Dana with this application. If it were a choice between an 8.25 and a Dana, your point would be valid, but when you have two options that both meet the need, not so much. This is especially true when you compare disadvantages such as cost, availability, fabrication, maintenance, etc.
 
Either way, your deep into the pocket and if you go with the Dana, you'll never look back and say I wish I hadn't done that. On the flip side, it's possible you could with the 8 3/4. The 8 3/4 is a good differential but it can't hold up to a Dana 60. Just my thoughts anyway
 
But that's why it's overkill...if it's not needed but you do it anyway, it's overkill.

Don't get me wrong we all do it, myself included.
And if I am going to spend 1200 bucks per se to set up a complete 8 3/4. The right way mind you not just bearings and new clutches a at home special ect. Gear, new posi unit, new axles ect. I am just going to go with the stronger rear...

If the OP was already considering it I bet he will be happier with it than the latter....
 
No. It's just overkill. Yes, a Dana will handle all the power he's going to make, but so will an 8.75. There is no benefit aside from bragging rights to be gained from a Dana with this application. If it were a choice between an 8.25 and a Dana, your point would be valid, but when you have two options that both meet the need, not so much. This is especially true when you compare disadvantages such as cost, availability, fabrication, maintenance, etc.
Dana made the name for themselves...it's not a bragging game although some take it as that way. Not sure what you mean by fabrication they don't bolt up any differently than an 8 3/4? Unless you get the wrong year range housing.

As far as availability goes, they are readily available....

The buy in cost is the obvious factor that's a given.

They both meet a need but a Dana is stronger and adds more rear weight.

Cost...who cares they are money pits anyways, lol....
 
And if I am going to spend 1200 bucks per se to set up a complete 8 3/4. The right way mind you not just bearings and new clutches a at home special ect. Gear, new posi unit, new axles ect. I am just going to go with the stronger rear...

If the OP was already considering it I bet he will be happier with it than the latter....

But the OP said he priced it out and with his labor it's going be around $800. A full Dana that has been suggested starts at around $2300 and is closer to $3000 when it is all said and done. Even using your figure...$3000>$1200...it's more than double the price. Since we both agree that a properly setup 8 3/4 will meet his needs, the extra $1600 could be spent elsewhere in his build.
 
Dana made the name for themselves...it's not a bragging game although some take it as that way. Not sure what you mean by fabrication they don't bolt up any differently than an 8 3/4? Unless you get the wrong year range housing.

As far as availability goes, they are readily available....

The buy in cost is the obvious factor that's a given.

They both meet a need but a Dana is stronger and adds more rear weight.

Cost...who cares they are money pits anyways, lol....
Money pit is putting it lightly but yeah...........
 
Did they not use 8 3/4 's on the old dragsters?

Sonny doesn't want to sound like a dumb-*** but...:steering:
 
But the OP said he priced it out and with his labor it's going be around $800. A full Dana that has been suggested starts at around $2300 and is closer to $3000 when it is all said and done. Even using your figure...$3000>$1200...it's more than double the price. Since we both agree that a properly setup 8 3/4 will meet his needs, the extra $1600 could be spent elsewhere in his build.
Sure he could spend that anywhere but why not just get what you want? The ultimate decision is his to.make to decide what makes him happier with his car.

My vote is obvious Dana all the way....get what you want you only live once and you cannot take it with you the grave...

I have had both rears....and after having 4 spd cars with Dana's I have never ever looked back...
 
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