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8-3/4" Pinion Snubber - TIGHT Clearance - Suggestions?

PurpleBeeper

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I've got a '70 Roadrunner 8-3/4" rear end '489 pumpkin with SS springs & a pinion snubber and 2" lowering blocks. My pinion snubber-to-floor clearance is VERY tight. I've shortened an old Direct Connection (?) box-style adjustable pinion snubber & trimmed down the rubber bumper and it's down to 3-1/2" base-to-top of rubber bumper tall...but that's still too high. I've got about 1/4" bumper-to-floor clearance (bumper hitting the floor all the time for sure) right now.

I need a pinion snubber that adjusts WAY down in height. Any suggestions? THANK YOU
 
Put in 1 inch lowering blocks.... Or make a custom snubber.
 
What clearance do you get with a stock snubber? BTW, SS springs don't like a snubber.
 
2" lowering blocks. My pinion snubber-to-floor clearance is VERY tight.
I'd say that's your problem.

64 Plymouth Sport Fury w/SS springs, 8 3/4" axle, and my homemade adjustable snubber mount. Even with a different taller snubber, have a full 1" clearance. A stock snubber, and mount, I'd probably have 3-4" clearance!
 
If you want to keep your ride height and use the adjustable snubber, you could cut one hole off the fixed box section and one hole off the inside box section.
 
What clearance do you get with a stock snubber? BTW, SS springs don't like a snubber.
I agree. If your snubber is hitting your SS springs are far less effective. My Duster with SS springs has a snubber. But it's only for pinion support in the event of spring failure if something real bad happens. I'm guessing you have a stock stance and tire? My Duster with 8 3/4 rear and tall 30" drag slicks puts snubber well below floor. Thus doesn't hit. So SS springs can do their job. My understanding is that SS spings bow more than stock thus spool energy. It then releases after initial hole launch. Thus assisting in getting you off the line. If snubber hits? That has to restrict the "Bowing effect?" I would think?
 
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With SS springs, I would run it without the snubber and see how it does.

The SS springs are, by design, made to prevent wrap up and force the rear down on launch firmly planting the tires.
 
Thanks everyone. The box-style snubber has already been cut down (won't shorten another hole, at least not easily). Yes, the 2" lowering blocks are causing the problem, but without them, the rear end is a mile in the air. Also, I ran this car without a pinion snubber and I got TERRIBLE wheel hop when I dropped the clutch.

Yes, I think 1" lowering blocks would help, but for now, I'd rather leave the 2" block in there to get the car close to level. I'm starting to think that a stock snubber might work, especially if I drilled it out & put my larger diameter (& 1-1/4" or so tall) snubber bumper on it. What do you guys think?
 
So, I ended up cutting down the rubber bumper even more, so I've got about 1" bumper-to-floor clearance now.
 
So if you have 2 people in the back seat, say 300lbs., what is the distance between the snubber and bracket?
 
My 4 speed Challenger hops without the snubber. I run it about 1/2" clearance.
Doug
 
So if you have 2 people in the back seat, say 300lbs., what is the distance between the snubber and bracket?
With my current, cut-down, box-style adjustable snubber? - roughly 2-3/4" now top of bumper to bottom of bracket (after cutting the bumper down another 1/2")
 
I’d think that would be fine if you have passengers. Might go a bit closer if it’s just you in the car.
 
With my current, cut-down, box-style adjustable snubber? - roughly 2-3/4" now top of bumper to bottom of bracket (after cutting the bumper down another 1/2")
Hey Purplebeeper did you ever get your SS springs and 2" lowering blocks the way you liked them? I was planning on going the same route with mine. Were you using the top or bottom hole in the front spring hanger. I have mine in the upper hole hole trying to keep it as low as possible in the rear, although i'm a long way from driving it at the moment. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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