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904 For Towing Duties?

GTXperience

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Can one consider a 904 as a viable option for occasional towing duties? Here is the scenario. I am thinking of picking up a B-body wagon with a 318/904/8.75. I have plans to rebuild the 318 (stroked to 392 w/a RV cam, etc.) and use the 8.75 (after going through it). I deal with springs/bags later. The only other questionable major component is the 904. Usually, I would never even consider it and immediately throw a 727 (or these days, perhaps a 518) in.

Over the last x amount of years, 904s have become very popular on the strip with the aftermarket supporting all of the necessary internals. Is anyone aware of internal kits/components (knowing some may be the same as the race trannies) to build a reliable 904 capable of towing? The wagon would be used for occasional towing to shows and tracks away from the immediate area. Otherwise, it will be a tooling around vehicle. The trailer/car weigh approx 5K (give or take 200lbs depending on the car).

Any thoughts would be appreciated. TIA.
 
A few years ago I had a 68 coronet 4dr ,318/904tf. The only option it had was a tow package, which consisted of 323 sure grip & 11 inch brakes.
 
I used a 71 Dodge pickup, with a 318/727/3.55...to tow a 20ft open and a b-body from N.Carolina to Michigan. It was really working hard on grades. No mechanical issues, but was it ever lethargic. I don't think it would have had much of a life, even being a 727. We were pulling in low-gear in the Smokey Mtns. You also need a "equalizer/draw-bar" hitch for such pulling. It'd be looking for a suicide, without one. There's a reason people pull with HD trucks.
 
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The environments are very different between a performance car or drag racer, and a towing rig. Just my opinion, but I would not expect much life from a 904 in a heavy wagon, pulling a 5Klbs trailer. Cooler or good internals or no. I know in my neck of the woods it wouldn't be feasible just because of the hills. With TF727s being as cheap as they are now, I think I'd run that with a good cooler, an aftermarket towing convertor, and a new driveshaft with good u joints.
 
I have to agree with most here and answer your question "No, don't use a 904 for towing". I would suggest you run an A727, a big transmission cooler, and consider building a 360. I switched to big blocks many years ago and didn't realize you can stroke a 318 to 392 cubes, so maybe I'm wrong on the last part.
 
Many years ago I built a 360 for my van, mild Comp cam, stock 727, 321 gear, stock 11" converter. The thing was a perfect towing combo for my 3500 # car & the 1100 # trailer. It ran great on the highway.
I would not consider a 904 for any towing use.
 
Thnx for all the feedback so far. One of the main reasons for even considering using the 318 & 904 is that I'm trying to downsize the parts I have laying around. Yes, I gave thought to installing a stroked 360 and a 727/518 but since this is the original motor/trans, I would feel obligated to keep/store them and that's what I am trying to get away from these days. I am not overly opposed to storing the 904 since it looks like most here are in agreement that the 904 isn't the way to go. Any additional thoughts or sources would be appreciated.
 
I used a 71 Dodge pickup, with a 318/727/3.55...to tow a 20ft open and a b-body from N.Carolina to Michigan. It was really working hard on grades. No mechanical issues, but was it ever lethargic. I don't think it would have had much of a life, even being a 727. We were pulling in low-gear in the Smokey Mtns. You also need a "equalizer/draw-bar" hitch for such pulling. It'd be looking for a suicide, without one. There's a reason people pull with HD trucks.

Agreed. I still have the Drawtite weight distribution hitch setup off my old tow vehicle. Thnx.
 
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