A&A 727 valve body's

[Wietse]

He guys,

I am currently sorting out some issues with my 727 valve body since the shifts are not how they supposed to be.
Need to see what the final results will be, but if i can't get it to work properly i am considering to buy a valve body from A&A transmission.
I've seen they offer a Modified valve body ('66-'69) but it does not state much information on what is modified and what to expect from it. (22770-4E part number)
Anyone here has experience with these valve body's? Does this give good, firm shifts and option for manual operation?
I am considering to purchase this, or buy the stock type valve body and a TF-2 reprogramming kit to modify it myself.
I've send 2 emails to A&A in the past 2 weeks but i am not getting any reply from them, used my hotmail an gmail account to make sure it does not end up in the spam.

It is for a street car, no racing but just looking for them firm shifts during spirited driving.
If their modified valve body is similar to the TF-2 kit it could be worth it to purchase it and avoid doing it myself and make a mistake or whatever else could go wrong.
I've done the installation of a TF-2 kit and is not hard at all, but when i did that i found it working like sh*t as the valve body already had been modified by a previous owner with a B&M kit which i was not aware of and me installing the TF-2 kit messed it up completely.
It's for a '69 Coronet R/T with 440 btw.

Any info would be appreciated!

 

[Doorkicker]

just my $0.02... but A&A makes GREAT stuff... definitely, recommended.

 

[ruffcut]

Pick up the phone and call. They will answer your questions and complete the order!
I've bought tons of parts and a complete race trans from Rick. Top notch.

 

[w.Hudson]

Rick and his crew are top notch. He never has any problems taking his time to talk to me at shows.

Here is a good example,
I made a mistake on what a part that I wanted. I gave him the wrong year model. Rick said "Not a problem"
After a long day he went back to his shop and got what I needed that night. He met me in the parking lot the
next morning and gave it to me.

They are great people to deal with.

 

[vance.dykes]

i have never had a problem with A & A Rick is great and every part i bought was perfect and worked great.

with that said you could get a newer valve body and do the up grade . there is the mopar chassis book will tell all you need and that will be more coast effective and all the other info on how to improve the complete chassis will pay you back.

 

[dvw]

I buy a lot of stuff from Rick and Nick ar A&A. Call Nick, he will give you the details on the valve bodies. PRI show was last weekend so they were there. TF2 kits are great. Use a ton of them as well.
Doug

 

[cj's mopar]

I would go for the new valve body and get a governor that shifts at your engine cam shafts max power sweet spot .
I have a tf 1 in 68 charger with cam that.makes power to 6000 so I put in 5800 rpm Governor works great

 

[Dave6T4]

Pick up a '71 and newer V.B. that has Part-Throttle Downshift. I have one in my '67 R/T, and like it.

 

[Wietse]

Thanks for all the reply's.
I had bought in the past from A&A and you guys are right, they have good service and parts.
Not sure why they can't reply a email, since i am from overseas it is not as easy to pick up the phone and call.

For the governor is not that easy, as the 727 is original to the car and had a 3.23 axle ratio, i used to have a 4.10 and recently changed to a 3.55 SG.
The shift points were very early with the 4.10, now are a little better but not the way i like it as yet.
And it does not downshift when slowing down, only at full stand still.
The current valve body has a lot of history and has many unknowns, thats why i am considering replacing it.

 

[Dave6T4]

Make sure your transmission kickdown lever is coming fully to test at idle; even with a little bit of slop. Put a light spring on it to help, if you must. Factory kickdown linkage, or aftermarket cable? If the lever is not coming fully to rest, some pressure is retained in the governor circuit, not allowing the transmission to shift back.

 

[Wietse]

Make sure your transmission kickdown lever is coming fully to test at idle; even with a little bit of slop. Put a light spring on it to help, if you must. Factory kickdown linkage, or aftermarket cable? If the lever is not coming fully to rest, some pressure is retained in the governor circuit, not allowing the transmission to shift back.

I've made it all to be as "from factory" with the return spring installed so it is always pulled forward.
The linkage is a stock as for the big block with 2 bell cranks, i do have a raised Performer RPM manifold and used the raised throttle cable brackets etc. to match and used the Holley type bracket on the carb as well. (Sniper EFI throttle body)
The vertical rod adjuster is extended near the end.
Maybe because of the intake, but could be a rod from a B engine as well, who knows after 50 years...
I did measure the "throw" of the linkage at the carb and at the TV lever on the transmission and seems both are same of very similar, about 1-5/8".
What bothers me is that the relative low governor pressure is able to upshift so early against the line pressure (about 90 psi) and not downshifting when slowing down.
I need a full stop to get it going out of Drive to 1st, when slowing down to 5-10mph it does not downshift to 2nd.

Also the governor pressure comes up at about 15-20mph and jumps straight to 20 psi, from there on it smoothly increases as road speed increases.
I had the governor apart (twice) and nothing is binding, dirty or whatsoever, blasted compressed air through the feed and governor ports in the transmission housing but are free to flow.
Governor itself seems stock parts, no odd machining or something was done, the weight assembly weighs about 65 gram / 2.4 Oz which seems normal compared to what i found online. (i.e. from a RV engine/tranny the weight was about 72 gram, early shifts)
Spring also was checked and giving near correct spring pressure as per feedback i got from a Transgo support tech.
So to me there is something inside the valve body that is wrong and causing this issues.