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a/c ?

moparshaker

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Location
triangle,va
this is a stupid ?, but here i go. if the water valve is by passed the heat control valve for the a/c wont work right. my a/c is charged and working but im just getting heat, the valve is bypassed in engine bay but it controls temp of water or bypasses the heater core when in a/c mode correct? thanks for any help tim
 
No the water valve actually controls the flow of water into the heater core so bypassing it will result in unrestricted flow of hot water and effectively disable the a/c.
 
If you want to stop the heat for the summer just bypass the heater core entirely. Take one of the heater hoses off at the engine ... disconnect the other heater hose at the heater core / firewall and loop it back to the engine.

How's everything in Triangle? I was stationed at Quantico in the late 70's so I know that area very well.
 
Anyone know a good source for these valves?
I'm seeing $50 and up plus shipping.
I also don't see my specific style (73).
 
A/c issues too !!

:angryfire: I HAVE THE SAME ISSUE ONLY SOME MORON TOOK OUT THE TWO VALVE STEMS FOR SOME REASON AND HAD SOME CABLE HOLDER THAT LOOKS LIKE A T AND THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE T HAD THE HEATER HOSES BETWEEN THEM AND THE SOME TYPE OF CABLE HOLDER THAT WAS ATTACHED TO THE INNER HEATER HOSE APPROX 6'' OUT AND THEM CONNECTED THEM UP AGAIN..THE CABLE WAS ONLY IN PLACE BETWEEN THE HOSES SO I AM NOT SURE HOW WELL IT WORKED IF AT ALL WHEN IT WAS SO LOSE.
I JUST BOUGHT THE DOUBLE STEM OF THE FIREWALL THAT LOOKS LIKE AN UPSIDE DOWN TRIANGLE OUT OF A 69 CORONET TO TRY TO FIX..I HAVE NO IDEA WHY SOMEONE WOULD REMOVE IT..THE OTHER A/C PARTS ARE FINE..WTF ..WHY WOULD SOMEONE TO DO THIS ..WHAT IS THE PURPOSE. I AM GOING TO UPLOAD A PHOTO TOMORROW DURING THE DAY ,SO YOU CAN SEE WHAT THIS MORON DID...DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHAT ISSUES I MAY HAVE REATTACHING THE PART BACK TO THE FIREWALL??.. WHAT IS THE PART CALLED > ? THANKS RICK
 
i have bought the new a/c control valve from rockauto, havent had a chance to put on with working so many long hours here lately, plus the storms that came threw here knocked my power out for 3 days with it being over 104 the house is hot as hell. been running my generator all nite to run a 1 room a/c , 2 frigs , and 3 fans and small dvd player. oh and the car im working on is a 71 charger. this saturday i hope to have the a/c in car running with pics.
 
well on a good note my a/c kicks *** now and blows real cold, but i have noticed that the heat control valve has a small leak in the unit its self (not hose related) but i can't seem to find the correct style i need for my 71 charger small block. rock auto sells 2 , 1 for non a/c and 1 for a/c but is cable operated and mine is a round small coffee can style canister that is vacumed controlled. anyone know where to get that.
 
The previous owner of my car installed a valve between the heater control valve and the heater core to cut off hot water flowing through the heater core. It looked ridiculous, but I guess it works. I removed it when I replaced the heater hoses. I may put something like that back if it gets too hot inside the car.

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The red handle in the middle left of the picture is what I am referring to.
 
well on a good note my a/c kicks *** now and blows real cold, but i have noticed that the heat control valve has a small leak in the unit its self (not hose related) but i can't seem to find the correct style i need for my 71 charger small block. rock auto sells 2 , 1 for non a/c and 1 for a/c but is cable operated and mine is a round small coffee can style canister that is vacumed controlled. anyone know where to get that.
i see that canister vacum type on ebay all the time. you can also try classic auto air,,,i think they will rebuild your original. the correct cable operated valve for 73-74 is a bear to find ,,, and if you do find an original one expect to pay $150 for it.
 
Anyone know a good source for these valves?
I'm seeing $50 and up plus shipping.
I also don't see my specific style (73).[/QUOTE


73 is a tough year to find the cable operated valve,,, rock auto has one but the mounting bracket is not right and you would have to fab.it a little,,,, you can get one from classic auto air , at $150-$175,,,,or you might get lucky watching ebay,,,,,
 
If the cable is broken and the outer housing is ok you can "rebuild" it by using a universal choke cable for a tractor. I got one at NAPA , it's 6-feet long and by using the inner wire inside your original outer housing and bending the ends of the wire to match the original you can take of the cable issue for about $20.
 
BTW - That fuel line looks a little questionable.

Yeah, it was. That set up was just to get the engine running to set timing. I stripped out all the Lean Burn equipment and put in a Pertronix distributor. I threw that old Holley on because the T'quad was no good and set up for LB system.
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