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Aeromotive phantom fuel pump installation question

68coronet

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I am putting the MSD Atomic EFI on the Coronet. I decided to purchase the Aeromotive Phantom stealth fuel pump instead of going with the in line pump. I was just wondering if anyone else has installed one of these in there car. I am not worried about installing the pump in the tank, I am more curious about the clearance between the tank and the trunk. I was thinking about getting longer fuel tank straps to lower the tank an inch or so and welding some spacers ( probably 1" square tube) on the top of the tank. If anyone has any other suggestions your input would be greatly appreciated. The other option is to go with an inline pump with a return.
 
I have the Areomotive Phantom Stealth system, my fill tube to my original tank is all chopped up and my gas gauge level sender doesnt work too well so I decided to go with a trunk fuel cell.

I have thought about what you are asking about before, and I decided to go fuel cell, my strap bolt has allot of thread left so I assumed it would be OK if I put some type of spacer in there. The 1" box tube would work, what I was going to do was install the system and see how much clearance I needed to add to clear the top of the I/O. I was also thinking about using some industrial silicone or JB weld to glue some spacers on.

Cool - What type of fuel line are you running from the tank to the engine compartment? AN flex? Steel, alum? What type of carb, motor, etc.?

I just installed my pump relay and turn on switch, I still have the run my fuel lines, install my cell and bolt it up.

I will post some pics when I get closer, looking forward to seeing some pics of yours.

Thanks
 
I have one of those phantom pumps and have been trying to figure out the best fuel lines to use without breaking the bank or using materials that aren't up to the job. After much research I decided to use braided steel lines with PTFE coating on/in the Teflon lining. PTFE cuts out the static electrical charge that can build up in the line and is a potential fire hazard. I looked at the aluminum lines on Jegs or Summit and their line is only good for 20 psi. The pump puts out 60 psi max so that's no good. The swag-lock to an fittings I saw on these sites were only rated to 55psi. A little to low. I wanted to use stainless steel tubing, but I don't have a bender that small and you need at tool for flaring. Too much money.
I had figured out all the an fittings I needed for the system, so it was just a matter of picking the line. I saw SS PTFE hose with crimped ends on AN PLUMBING.COM. You measure the lengths you need and sizes, color of the fittings and they will make them up for you and test them to 1500lbs. Prices are very reasonable when compared to buying all the stuff and assembling it yourself. Also, with them testing the lines I know I won't have a leak. I found the fittings I needed on Jeggs web site and the filter. The pressure regulator I found on Summit. Aeomotive A1000 carbonated fuel bypass pressure regulator 13204. It has a boost reference port if you wanted to do a blow through setup.
All the outlets on the pump are -6 so you need 3 fittings with a -6 orb (o ring boss) end that goes into the fuel pump. I wanted bigger pressure lines so I went with an adapter fitting that is -6 orb to -8an coming from the pressure outlet. That goes to a -8 fueil line to the fuel filter which has a -10 inlet. I used a -8an to -10orb adapter to the fuel filter. From the other end of the fuel filter I did a -10an to-10orb fitting. Then a -10 SS PTFE fuel line to the -10an inlet of the pressure regulator. A -6 line goes to the carburetor. A -8an return fitting on the regulator goes to a -8 SS PTFE line back to the return side of the fruel pump with a -8an to -6orb fitting that goes into the fuel pump. There is a -6 outlet for a vent line and you should use a roll over vent valve. I found one on Jegs. I am sure there are valves on other sites as well. Then you will need lots of clamps of your choice to be sure the lines are supported and don't chafe on anything.
My son and I thought of cutting an opening in the trunk floor and making a removable access plate to be able to get at the pump and fittings without dropping the tank.

Hope this helps you guys cause the fuel fittings and lines can get very expensive really fast. I prices out fuel lines and fittings on one site and it came to almost a thousand dollars. That was just the lines and fittings that went to them. Way too much!
 
I agree, it adds up really quick, I went with 0.035" Fragola 8AN aluminum tubing from my tank to my engine compartment, then standard fuel AN braided stainless. I also had a 340lph pump from another car I am going to use with this install.

Here is my design:
Fuel_Design.jpg
 
John: Wow! I thought I was ****... I'm impressed! (bow down repeatedly) Are you an illustrator?
 
John: Wow! I thought I was ****... I'm impressed! (bow down repeatedly) Are you an illustrator?

Hi Dave, thanks for the kind words and no, I am not an illustrator, I was an inspiring artist in my younger years and I am into computers. I did that in Photoshop from Areomotive's basic design layout. The only reason I did it was it was an extremely harsh winter and it was something to do in my spare time. Also, with that many parts it really helps to have a good visual.

I do have all the parts and I am getting ready to install the system. I haven't heard many people install these systems so I was interested.

This system got some good praise from SEMA 2012, that is why I bought it.

[video=youtube;OZrgh3QrIh8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZrgh3QrIh8[/video]
 
Harsh winter? What's that? Seriously, I just got through installing a Hamburger remote filter using all -10 stainless and AN fittings. I drew a diagram laying out all the parts but I'm not going to show it here after seeing yours. Best part is; no more removing a horizontal oil filter over the K member.
 
info

68coronet, brucedl is dead on with his writeup. I just finished one of the installs with the phantom 200 for my fast efi2 injection. I did make a hole in the trunk and am making a stainless trim ring for the trunk floor. I am going to 90 degree fitting up from the orb fitting, then using hose fittings on the tank flange and then arch over to the raised area behind the back seat, then straight down thru sheetmetal using bulkhead connectors then using hose back over to the frame, then hard line. there will be two lines, one for supply and one for return. a few more hundred dollars for -an fittings was anticipated for the system. here are a few pics.
PT in Tennessee
69 Roadrunner
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PT,
Nice to see one of those pumps put in a tank. I was trying to figure out if any of the lines went into the inside of the car from the way you described the routing. I am thinking not, but wanted to be sure. I know people put fuel cells in their trunks all the time. I am going to have a "blister" to give the lines some room, but keep them out of the inside of the car. I like the fact that you are using bulkhead fittings for going through the sheet metal. I worked on fighter air planes for over 20 years (F14, f4c, EA6B,A6, Ef111). Suffice it to say I have put together and fixed more hydraulic, liquid cooling lines and air lines than I can count. Bulkhead fittings are standard stuff on airplanes. Good to see some one using this safe practice. Please post more pictures if you can and thanks.
Brucedl
 
more pics

here is a few more pics. no lines into the car, but yes behind the back seat.
pt in tennessee
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welcome
pt in tennessee

- - - Updated - - -

bruce, sorry I just realized you are referring to the template for the bolt holes. I have not done my trim ring yet. the alum template you see in the pics comes with the kit. it is a very good piece that will never be used again.
pt
 
Hi Pturner,
I put the same fuel system into my car over a year ago, but haven't put many miles on the car yet. I have a leak for the second time coming from the gasket.

Have you run into this yet?
 
i tossed an atomic into my 66 coronet with an tanksinc in-tank pump.

i did tack weld some square tubing to the top of the tank to provide clearance for the fuel lines out of the pump.

i used a stock tank strap though i had to fab a longer hook using a long eye bolt

also ran the soft portion of velcro across tops of all square tubing to prevent squeaking.




there should be a gasket between the interface of that black surface and top of tge tank in my opinion. i didnt like the cork one supplied with my tanksinc pump so i ordered a circular ptfe gasket off amazon and traced it to my pump flange diameter
 
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Watermelon,
Good idea on the square tubing for a spacer and the Velcro for keeping it quiet. I will probably do something similar on my 1965 coronet.
Thanks for the idea.
Bruce
 
tanks inc makes a fuel injection tank for a 68 coronet with a recess on top for an internal pump.
 
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