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Alternative gauge cluster

So had ordered a whole bunch of bits and pieces for my dash and finished it all off today.
Did not get to the speedometer cable as yet but that will be the next item on the list.
Got all stickers to refresh the gauge faces and installed all the new electrical stuff.
First thing noted was that the fuel meter indicated correct as i just filled up the tank.

Cleaned and spray painted the dash face with plastidip and added a dark metallic color on the gauge edges.
Polished the clear lenses with stuff for plastic headlight restoration and got the scratches and **** out, looks a lot better.

When it got dark checked all the dash lights but did not work, bypassed the dimmer and now working fine.

Hopefully i will get the tachometer to work properly as well and it's first "big" job completed!

Another thing to look at is the RPM signal wire, the shop where i bought the car from installed a ready-to-run MSD ignition, this supply's a grey wire from the distributer.
Do i need to hook up this wire to the back of the rpm gauge? (attach on the "points" pin, short brass one on the back?)

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I've tried and connected the rpm gauge wire on the grey wire of the MSD distributer, as well as on the negative pole of the coil block, but in both cases it does barely react on rpm changes.
I read about an additional piece is required that alters the signal to make this work?

Also the speedometer did not work properly, yesterday during assembly i moved the little spring assembly right behind the needle when removing it, now thinking this might cause this issue.
This spring sets the tension on the needle to return to "zero" but i am quite sure this is causing the malfunction.
At higher speeds it does start to indicate something but not much, is there a certain pre-set on this spring?

I did remove the speedometer cable gear from the tranny, found a 32 tooth wheel which was in as new condition, also the cable sits snug and is properly installed on both ends.

Guess its time to order a new speedometer gauge.

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Any suggestions from anyone regarding the tach?
Or do i need the MSD signal adapter to get this to work, as from what i read that is not required when the tach electrical board has been upgraded.

I will have to pull the dash again anyway and give 1 more attempt to fix the speedometer.
 
Speedometer appears to be gone.
Behind the needle is a something like a friction type clutch that transfers the spinning motion of the cable to the needle.
There is a lot of axial play on this causing the needle side not to be driven, the milage counter does work.
I will have to order a new gauge to get it to work, i am doubting of buying a new tic toc tach as well at the same time.
The clock is not working (did try to open this) but i wonder if i buy a new tach from Classic Industries i will require a signal adapter as well from them to get the rpm counter to work with the MSD distributor through the grey wire connector.

Anyone can confirm i need this adaptor, i believe i would require this one:
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/8910.html

As with this one it is stated for non-current limiting ignition, originally equipped with a ballast resistor.
Mind you that the power supply for my ignition is not coming from the ballast resistor, instead i found that there is a separate 12V supply coming direct from the battery going through a relais which is controlled by the "start" and "run" signal from the ignition switch to supply the 12V to the coil.

I am using a MSD 8387 distributor and a 8207 Blaster SS coil.

Please advice so i can order this as wel.
 
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