Alternator Bypass

[Doorkicker]

I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think).

I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance.

Question:
Can I simply connect the wire from the alt to the batt? I don't need an amp or volt meter.

 

[pnora]

I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think).

I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance.

Question:
Can I simply connect the wire from the alt to the batt? I don't need an amp or volt meter.

Yes you can. I would use a large fuse at the source you use. Lots use the battery stud on the starter relay. It might be to your advantage to fix that wiring issue.

 

[gdrill]

I believe once you do the bypass, the main current will take the easiest path to the battery....not sending all the juice through the ammeter. But you can still remove it from the system.

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is the MAD electrical diagrams. FIRST is stock:

The following is the modified version.

 

[Doorkicker]

D@mn you guys are awesome! Thank you!

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Properly troubleshoot the voltage drop, by-pass the bulkhead charging system terminals, the real weakness in the original design. Check the ammeter connections, make sure they are not loose or have damaged insulators then leave it alone. Make sure all loading is on the alternator side of the ammeter, not at the battery.

 

[Doorkicker]

BTW... What size fuse?

 

[pnora]

BTW... What size fuse?

Depends on wiring size.

 

[Doorkicker]

12ga

 

[RJRENTON]

Depends on wiring size.

Typical fuse would be 150% of the largest connected load. A # 12 AWG wire is rated (NEC or National Electectrical Code) is 20 amps, it is able to withstand 30 amps. Question: WHAT IS THE CONNECTED LOAD? Arbitrarily suggesting #12 AWG is not sufficient information to make a accurate decision on wire size or fuse requirements.....
BOB RENTON

 

[inthe9s]

I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think).

I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance.

Question:
Can I simply connect the wire from the alt to the batt? I don't need an amp or volt meter.

yes you can. you should put a fuse or fusible link in it but yes that will work
you might have to connect any additional wires attached to the back of the ammeter to the circuit though

 

[Moparfiend]

Giving this thread a few days to cool off before I jumped in with a question on this topic.

I have a stock set up on my 1970 Satellite. I plan to bypass the Alt and use the Mad schematic. I’ve researched this well on this site and the Abodies site.

Question: Is there any better Ammeter bypass set up or are most in agreement that the Mad set up like what KD posted is probably the simplest and most effective circuit change? There is so much material written out there…..
Thanks

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Do you mean by-pass the ammeter? Did you read the Mad article carefully as to what vehicle type it was intended to address? You read all the ammeter/charging system threads here and concluded the Mad Electric approach is what everyone recommends?

Bypass the bulkhead connector charging system terminals, check the connections at the ammeter for loose or damaged connections/insulators then leave it alone, make sure all vehicle loads are on the alternator side of the ammeter as originally designed.

 

[pnora]

Do you mean by-pass the ammeter? Did you read the Mad article carefully as to what vehicle type it was intended to address? You read all the ammeter/charging system threads here and concluded the Mad Electric approach is what everyone recommends?

Bypass the bulkhead connector charging system terminals, check the connections at the ammeter for loose or damaged connections/insulators then leave it alone, make sure all vehicle loads are on the alternator side of the ammeter as originally designed.

What older mopars have the loads on the alternator side of the ammeter?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Every Chrysler product built with an alternator and an ammeter in that era. All factory loads are on the alternator side of the ammeter originally, one exception, the starter motor. See Diagram A in post #4 above.
With a stock system, any add-on loads connected at the battery draws its current from the alternator while the charging system is in operation. Places all charging system connections between the battery and alternator, including the ammeter, well outside of the original design limits and registers as false charging on the ammeter.

 

[pnora]

Every Chrysler product built with an alternator and an ammeter in that era. All factory loads are on the alternator side of the ammeter originally, one exception, the starter motor. See Diagram A in post #4 above.

I thought you ment off the stud itself.

 

[Moparfiend]

Do you mean by-pass the ammeter? Did you read the Mad article carefully as to what vehicle type it was intended to address? You read all the ammeter/charging system threads here and concluded the Mad Electric approach is what everyone recommends?

Bypass the bulkhead connector charging system terminals, check the connections at the ammeter for loose or damaged connections/insulators then leave it alone, make sure all vehicle loads are on the alternator side of the ammeter as originally designed.

Yes bypass the ammeter AND bulkhead connector for the feed into the cabin.

Yes I read the MAD article.

I read several threads on this topic but not all lol.

I currently have a functional wiring harness and bulkhead connector. I even use deoxit on the connector.

I just want a safe and reliable set up and since I am reassembling my dash this is the time to make it better. I don’t need an ammeter.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I won’t enter on discussion about the ammeter conspirancy “myths” and stuff… many threads about that around, but in my opinion: You can get a power decay and save the battery volt level with that bypass, but the main splice is still into the cab running throught the bulkhead, SO, the power decay ( maybe reduced but still present) will be still affecting all the power being spreading up from the main splice.

stop running patches but fixing, getting mantenienced or upgrading the real deal.