• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

ammeter fix

Texas charger 73

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:04 AM
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
609
Reaction score
308
Location
Texas
I am currently putting my standard dash back together, before I install.it I want to fix the ammeter problem. I will also be running a seoerate voltmeter just so I know how many volts I'm running. First thing in did is pull wire number 16,and number 20,from bulkhead as these seem to be the biggest black and red wires that run to the gauge. Correct? Next do I need to do anything to the wire from the engine harness side that plugs into bulkhead?,Dont need any live hotnwires? Next. Which stud is the battery stud and which is the ground? Next how do I hook it up to work?, I have read something about a fusable link and wire to the alternator instead of the battery? I want to do this once and do it correctly. Thank you for all help. What gauge wire and size fusable link I need?

Also what are the two plugs? They go driver or passenger side? Single plug brown wire, 3 plug looks like green,dark green and brown or grey.
This is on a standard dash 73 charger 20150128_092712.jpg20150128_092818.jpg
 
Last edited:
Go check out the MAD Electrical site. Mark has a nice write up with pictures on the conversion.
 
Got a link?

- - - Updated - - -

Got a link?
That was a good write up,but I Dont want to bypass it..I want to still be able to use factory gauge as well as my voltmeter. I know it's possible cause I have heard of it done. Its just all about wiring. Thanks
 
If you want to keep your amp gauge you will need to put both the black and red wires back into the bulkhead connector. Or like some say, eliminate the bulkhead connectors and drill through the bulkhead connector and butt splice the wires. The two plugs you have in your hand go to the heater blower motor resistor. You have an A/C car and the resistor is located on the left side of the heater box next to the left defroster outlet. As far as adding a volt meter, you only need to tap a hot wire for one side of the volt meter and a good ground for the other side. Personally, I would ditch the ammeter and go with the volt meter but to each his own.
 
I ran #8 wire from the alternator to the starter relay (Home depot) including 6 inches of #12 fuesable link wire from napa. Be sure to solder and shrink wrap all connections including lugs.
 
who said the ammeter needs a fix ? by what I can see it must be in perfect working order. Amm is a gauge allmost imposible to beat

both wires are positive bud! just one comes from alternator and the other from the batt. Ammeter reads the load balance between both according with BATT STATUS ( not alt status missconception as many ppl thinks ). If load comes from batt because alt is not giving enough juice, will read discharge, if reads charge, the batt is being "reloaded" by the load lost previouslly by the alt at the same time the alt is feeding the car demand. If needle keeps centered, there is an alt able to feed all the car demand, without a charge or discharge status, just enough.

To keem ammeter working still will need both wires hooked up to the ammeter. Then a diff stuff is if you want ot not to use the bulkhead terminals.

read this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

wiring and ammeter is not everything bud
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top