Ammeter pics & help?

[robw13]

If the Ammeter and/or Bulkhead connector isn't getting power, would that cause the car to have No Spark If every ign piece has been replaced? Would that make the gauges to not work? Anyone have pics of the Ammeter or what the Bulkhead suppose to look like?

 

[red72]

I don't know what vehicle you have but you may be able to get the wiring diagram at http://www.mymopar.com/index.php. I usually trace the circuit I'm troubleshooting with a highlighter to know where to check with my volt meter. Sounds like a faulty ignition switch, maybe. If you trace that circuit to the coil you will find the problem.

 

[robw13]

74 charger se 5.9 360. Replaced, dizzy cap n rotor button, wiresn plugs, relay & starter, v.regulator n ICM 4-pin & dual ballast.

 

[b_body_hopeful]

Do these cars (74) have a seat belt interlock system? I read many articles about how that wasn't a great idea to introduce into the mopar lineup. I found this from an earlier post http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...key-wont-start-car&highlight=interlock+system Maybe this could help. MTCW.

 

[robw13]

K ill check that but the engine cranks, no spark. Where all the ign parts are on the firewall, do they need to be touching bare metal? Can I test the bulkead with a Light Probe?

The pics are of my starter relay & bulkhead.

 

[Propwash]

There's cracked/cut up and dried out insulation and open wires all over....that's a fire waiting to happen, and it's obvious why you have electrical issues. Not bringing it up to rip on your car or how it's maintained, but bringing it up because that's a poster child for a fire. I would really, really recommend you pull your harnesses, check and replace any bad wires, check and clean all terminals, finish it off with some dielectric grease. I would guess after that, your problem would be solved.

 

[robw13]

Ok, no ur not rippin just helpin. That yellow wire that's wrapped around on the relay, can I just put connector on it and theres no fuse link in any of those wires. What's a good way to clean/check the bulkhead connector?

 

[Propwash]

What does that wire with no end and cracked up insulation go to? I see it's hooked to a twist lock connector (not good for that application, prone to moisture). That wire should run into your bulkhead connector and to the + on the backsiide of your ammeter. That wire would also have had a fusible link installed somewhere between the relay and the bulkhead connector. Also, your brown/yellow wire for the neutral safety switch and brown for the starter needs an immediate fix. If you do not have a spare connector for them, buy yourself a run of the mill insulated terminal connector (preferably with the shrink tube insulation) and redo that connection. For the bulkhead connector, unhook the connectors (3 of them) that hold the wire harness connectors to the bulkhead connector. Look at the female and male terminal connectors from the harness connector and in the bulkhead connector. Check for white/blue cruddy build up and any melting of the connectors anywhere. I clean mine with small precision files till they're nice shiny brass. A little file from a fingernail clipper and a small wire brush would do the trick as well.


Here's your wiring schematic for your car:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74CoronetChargerA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74CoronetChargerB.JPG

 

[robw13]

So any wires that look shabby need replacing. Just use same color of wire for replacing? Also, the fuse box in the diagram, is that the one under the dash or the bulkhead? That cracked up wire is tied together to. Another wire goin to the bulkhead.

 

[Propwash]

Have you thought about finding decent used harnesses? IMO, I would. Either that or just build new ones. You would probably ending up spending a couple hundred bucks in new wire/terminal connectors if you built your own. It's really not that hard to do if you can read a wiring schematic. If you don't color code the wires, at least label them with wire labels or clear shrink tape/wrap over the written wire labels. If you went with a decent used one, I'd make sure to unwrap it to check the condition f the insulation and the ohms test the wires, looking for heavy resistance or no resistance.

In the first wiring schematic link I posted....The fuse box is below:




Bulkhead connector and harness connectors are the square little boxes labeled 123..4..5..6..ect ect.. It's laid out in schematic format, not a depiction drawing of it.

 

[robw13]

K cool. Is there any interchangeble harnesses that I can use? Also, does the bulkhead pop out or connected to the fuse block?

 

[b_body_hopeful]

On the engine side the connectors are clipped on and you need to squeeze the ends at the top together to get them to unclip. Be careful when doing this cause I found out that these are brittle and can break real easily. Inside, there are two pieces. The fuse block is held on by two metal clips that are kitty corner to each other. Push on the clips and the fuse block will pull away from the bulkhead connector. Then the bulkhead connector is held on with 4 bolts. After unscrewing them, you now have a hole from the engine bay to the passenger compartment. I do not know about any interchangeable harnesses that you can use. I built my own harness. Was easier and much nicer. Now I know where all the wires go and what they connect to. Easier to troubleshoot also.

 

[robw13]

I used a light probe this morning checking power on the red dizzy wire and No Light/Power. All the connections going to the other ign parts have power, so I gues its the dizzy after all.

 

[b_body_hopeful]

Hey, where does that red dizzy wire go to - from the dizzy to what? My dizzy has a brown and a grey wire coming from the ECU.

 

[robw13]

They mine is, u got a red & bk wire to connector from dizzy then connector with red/bk wires goin to the harness. Most if my wires are taped/bundled together.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

answer to the original post... if ammeter is not getting power, car won't even crank or turn on dome light or anything.

some other answers:

interlock system only affects the cranking function, not the Run circuit or even the ballast bypass when cranking. You can in fact jump out the starter relay with key in RUN and will cranks and start the engine ( if everything of the ign system is working )

mymopar wiring diagrams are not correct for 74 ( and neither some other years ). Just work for some sections reference

every 74 harnesses is unique for that year EXCEPT the rear lighting harness which is the same to all 3rd gens...

 

[robw13]

I've pulled the ign harness and know that a couple of connectors to be replaced. Should I just untape most of it to check the wiring and replace wires as needed? Also, is there a wire/connector that connects the fuse box to the bulkhead? Can/should I use dielectric grease on all the connectors? Bulkhead,ign parts?

 

[robw13]

Can the car run with just the middle connector connected on the bulkhead?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

no, because the headlight harness gets the battery cable... unless you plug straight just that wire into the offset cavity