Amp gauge to volt conversion?

[440+6]

Anybody have any thoughts on this conversion? (I am a bit skeptical about this one)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330964784147?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I can't believe that no one is making a volt gauge for these cars that looks factory, with painted indicators instead of stickers, if anyone knows of someone doing this let me know, it's about the only way I would switch out my amp gauge.

 

[Bruzilla]

Stickers are the way forward these days.

 

[67 B-body]

Probably just a damned sticker, and some instruction to go out and buy the actual volt gauge and use there sticker!
I dont know how you would change an Ammeter that measures the current flow THROUGH the gauge, to a Volt meter that measures the Potential voltage to ground (-12vdc)???!!!

 

[Rich Kinsley]

Probably just a damned sticker, and some instruction to go out and buy the actual volt gauge and use there sticker!
I dont know how you would change an Ammeter that measures the current flow THROUGH the gauge, to a Volt meter that measures the Potential voltage to ground (-12vdc)???!!!

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The answer is to ditch the ammeter. The ammeter runs in a series circuit and has the current flow running through the gauge. It's a fire hazard that is fairly common. voltmeter is hooked in parallel and measures potential instead of flow. It's actually better and immeasurably safer. There are diagrams out there that show the wiring scenario for the swap which just basically involves removing the ammeter and connecting the wires together that fed the gauge. Then install an aftermarket voltmeter parallel with most any keyed source you want. Much better and safer.

 

[Gpuller]

Didn't Propwash convert his??

 

[67 B-body]

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The answer is to ditch the ammeter. The ammeter runs in a series circuit and has the current flow running through the gauge. It's a fire hazard that is fairly common. voltmeter is hooked in parallel and measures potential instead of flow. It's actually better and immeasurably safer. There are diagrams out there that show the wiring scenario for the swap which just basically involves removing the ammeter and connecting the wires together that fed the gauge. Then install an aftermarket voltmeter parallel with most any keyed source you want. Much better and safer.

To my point,,,, you have to replace the ammeter with a volt meter! That Ebay thing is just a darn sticker for 13 bucks!
I know exactly how both gauges work,,,, it was a rhetorical statement..

 

[440+6]

We all know how they both work (at least we should), and I'm pretty sure that ebay thing is bull crap.
I guess what I wanted to know is if anyone made a volt gauge that looks stock and fits in the cluster (I haven't been able to find one), I still have my amp gauge and it's just fine after 44 years, no burnt terminals at the bulkhead or any other problems, and I don't think it's a ticking time bomb like most seem to think but would switch to volt gauge if I found one.

You would think with all the paranoid amp gauge talk going on that someone would make one.

 

[cdr]

this is avail in different colors
http://www.whitegauges.net/products/1968%252d1970-Dodge-Charger-Volts-Overlay.html

 

[paladin06]

Mine is converted.

Didn't Propwash convert his??

 

[Michael789]

I agree 440+6 I have no intention on changing mine either, I think if people are worried about a fire then install a circuit braker in the line to protect against high amps.

 

[Propwash]

Didn't Propwash convert his??

You bet Reed! Glad I did. I'm one of the unfortunate ones that have dealt with a bulkhead getting turned into a melted blob, as well fried harness and torched cluster on another car. I haven't left a ammeter in a mopar since. These are pic's of the shunt and brown board off my roadrunners ammeter:






Obviously the ammeter on my bird got real hot and close to torching up as well. I was able to superimpose a sunpro 2" voltmeter in the ammeters place while retaining the factory look. I also drilled out the terminal connection in the bulkhead connector and ran the wire straight through. I would really recommend bypassing the ammeter. It is a well known problem area. If you have an old harness, any electrical additions from stock and some terminal connectors that have not been cleaned and Die-electric greased in a while, it's just a matter of time till you're roasting weenie's..

Here's a link to the conversion:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?8368-Family-Tradition/page54

Here's a great link to MAD Electrical's Ammeter bypass article.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml


If you're not converting, I would really recommend cleaning the power in and power out terminals in the bulkhead connector real well, and doping it up with a good amount of die-electric grease. Also check to make sure the two connections at the back of the ammeter are nice and secure. Last would be checking the wires real good for any kind of degrading, stiffness & corrosion. Any addition to electrical draw or stepping up the amps, I would at least bypass the ammeter at the same time.


Good luck which ever route you go 440+6

 

[Photon440]

I took apart a dead ammeter and put a voltmeter in it's place, making my own decal. Except mine actually says 'VOLTS' and I tried to make it look like the rest of the guages.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

All good stuff for you rally dash guys lol I think it's time I start making volt gauge conversions for the non rally dash guys! Give me some thing to do this summer besides blowing away cameros and doing burnouts

 

[sleepar]

Anybody have any thoughts on this conversion? (I am a bit skeptical about this one)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330964784147?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I can't believe that no one is making a volt gauge for these cars that looks factory, with painted indicators instead of stickers, if anyone knows of someone doing this let me know, it's about the only way I would switch out my amp gauge.

They are just no pictures... I have an extra dash for my coronet 440 I had the Speedometer 're done at Bob's speedometer and will be carefully removing the amp gauge and replacing it with a 2" volt meter and will document with photos... buy a "rebuildable core" send it out for repairs to Bob's speedometer... then you won't feel so bad hacking it up like when I put in an 8track player when that comes back ... one thing I miss from the old junk yarding days is finding freebies to use for practice...

 

[440+6]

You bet Reed! Glad I did. I'm one of the unfortunate ones that have dealt with a bulkhead getting turned into a melted blob, as well fried harness and torched cluster on another car. I haven't left a ammeter in a mopar since. These are pic's of the shunt and brown board off my roadrunners ammeter:

Obviously the ammeter on my bird got real hot and close to torching up as well. I was able to superimpose a sunpro 2" voltmeter in the ammeters place while retaining the factory look. I also drilled out the terminal connection in the bulkhead connector and ran the wire straight through. I would really recommend bypassing the ammeter. It is a well known problem area. If you have an old harness, any electrical additions from stock and some terminal connectors that have not been cleaned and Die-electric greased in a while, it's just a matter of time till you're roasting weenie's..

Here's a link to the conversion:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?8368-Family-Tradition/page54

Here's a great link to MAD Electrical's Ammeter bypass article.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml


If you're not converting, I would really recommend cleaning the power in and power out terminals in the bulkhead connector real well, and doping it up with a good amount of die-electric grease. Also check to make sure the two connections at the back of the ammeter are nice and secure. Last would be checking the wires real good for any kind of degrading, stiffness & corrosion. Any addition to electrical draw or stepping up the amps, I would at least bypass the ammeter at the same time.

Good luck which ever route you go 440+6

Thanks Will, been through your entire thread before and somehow I forgot about that conversion. since no one makes a ready to bolt in volt gauge for my dash I am going to give it a try. just need to find an amp gauge to use (don't wanna chop mine up) and see if I can make it work.
As far as the bulkhead I cleaned and greased it a few years ago, it looked great before I even cleaned it (all original wiring) and I have a stock alternator, I believe 70 amps.
I am not convinced that these upgrades are necessary, but I do think that it's not a bad idea either. Knock on wood I haven't had an electrical problem with this car in 35 years, nor do I expect any, but I think of this kind of upgrade as cheap insurance.

- - - Updated - - -

I took apart a dead ammeter and put a voltmeter in it's place, making my own decal. Except mine actually says 'VOLTS' and I tried to make it look like the rest of the guages.

How did you go about making that decal, looks nice.

- - - Updated - - -

They are just no pictures... I have an extra dash for my coronet 440 I had the Speedometer 're done at Bob's speedometer and will be carefully removing the amp gauge and replacing it with a 2" volt meter and will document with photos... buy a "rebuildable core" send it out for repairs to Bob's speedometer... then you won't feel so bad hacking it up like when I put in an 8track player when that comes back ... one thing I miss from the old junk yarding days is finding freebies to use for practice...

Bobs speedometer was a mile from my house in the 70's, everyone used them back in the day, now they are in Howell, not far from my old hunting grounds about 45 minute ride from me.
Thanks, maybe I'll call them for a price to do the conversion and decide from there.

 

[Propwash]

but I think of this kind of upgrade as cheap insurance

Good luck to ya 440+6. That's a good way to put it.

 

[Gpuller]

You bet Reed! Glad I did. I'm one of the unfortunate ones that have dealt with a bulkhead getting turned into a melted blob, as well fried harness and torched cluster on another car. I haven't left a ammeter in a mopar since.

Glad you chimed in Will, was starting to think I lost my mind. Thought I was going to page through 100+ pages of your thread to find it! ha ha ha

 

[Photon440]

- - - Updated - - -



How did you go about making that decal, looks nice.

- - - Updated - - -

I drew it up on my computer (with Paintshop) and then turned it into a waterslide decal, like you'd use on models. I sent that picture to my laser printer and printed it on a sheet of decal paper, cut it out and applied it.

 

[Propwash]

Glad you chimed in Will, was starting to think I lost my mind. Thought I was going to page through 100+ pages of your thread to find it! ha ha ha

Hehehehe...No sweat. Yeah, it's a novel to say the least.

 

[Budnicks]

You bet Reed! Glad I did. I'm one of the unfortunate ones that have dealt with a bulkhead getting turned into a melted blob, as well fried harness and torched cluster on another car. I haven't left a ammeter in a mopar since. These are pic's of the shunt and brown board off my roadrunners ammeter:

View attachment 174691

View attachment 174692


Obviously the ammeter on my bird got real hot and close to torching up as well. I was able to superimpose a sunpro 2" voltmeter in the ammeters place while retaining the factory look. I also drilled out the terminal connection in the bulkhead connector and ran the wire straight through. I would really recommend bypassing the ammeter. It is a well known problem area. If you have an old harness, any electrical additions from stock and some terminal connectors that have not been cleaned and Die-electric greased in a while, it's just a matter of time till you're roasting weenie's..

Here's a link to the conversion:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?8368-Family-Tradition/page54

Here's a great link to MAD Electrical's Ammeter bypass article.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml


If you're not converting, I would really recommend cleaning the power in and power out terminals in the bulkhead connector real well, and doping it up with a good amount of die-electric grease. Also check to make sure the two connections at the back of the ammeter are nice and secure. Last would be checking the wires real good for any kind of degrading, stiffness & corrosion. Any addition to electrical draw or stepping up the amps, I would at least bypass the ammeter at the same time.


Good luck which ever route you go 440+6

I was going to recommend the Mad Electric guys too, great tech stuff on that site too, they know MoPar wiring... you can add a 8ga. wire from the 1/4" main charging post on the back of the alternator to the large 1/4" lug on the starter relay it will take a ton of the load off the wiring under the dash "left intact", make sure to clean the bulkhead connectors on the firewall really well too, both sides, wire brush pipe cleaners sand paper what ever you need to, then flush thoroughly with arousal electronics spray cleaner, when it's dry/evaporated, then put a dab of dielectric grease on every single connection carefully to stave off corrosion & rust, makes a world of a difference, be careful when you take the plugs out they can be extremely brittle form exposure to heat & weather for decades... check to make sure all the connections are good & solder where ever possible not just crimp, then re-tape...