An odd trim question and an alternative attaching method.

[Speedbird]

I'm working on a unmolested 67. I'm converting to "66" fender trim. I bought a complete "66" set from someone so I have no knowledge of it's true origin.
I don't think there will be a good answer to this, but I'll throw it out.
Look at the pictures.
The passenger's side pot metal piece seems to have been altered/cut. But it is chrome plated in the cut area. See red markings in the pictures.
I'm not using that piece. But it's odd.



Next item. Some of the "66" pieces that I got appeared to be anodized. I had to remove that finish with scotch bright roloc disk before polshing them. They were still somewhat shiny as opposed to other pieces that were white with oxidation. Not all were. It was an odd mix.
And the base aluminum on some pieces was of a different hardness between trim pieces on my 67 and what came from a "66" . I could tell this when I straightened bent places.
I'm guessing different vendors on the trim.

Next item.
I could not stand the thought of gouging my fresh driver quality paint by forcing the trim back over plastic bases and maybe hitting the paint.
That would be a place for corrosion to start.
So I devised an alternative method.
(I don't even know if the two people that say they have the 60 dollar plastic base sets even have them).
Stainless studs and a base pad of trim tape.
I used stainless because I didn't want the studs to ever rust and run down on the paint. Plus it's easy to TIG.
The tape will not only protect the paint, it secures the trim so I didn't have to really force the trim into the paint. It won't shift under expansion and contraction.
The tape is hidden mostly.
I used stainless non-lock (nylon) nuts and some silicon RTV to keep the nuts on the studs. A little in the holes too before installation for good measure.
(Be sure they didn't vibrate off.)
The bottom line was I figured if the car is ever repainted the trim will stay on anyway with plastic bases, so I went to the extra trouble.

More pictures in next post.

 

[Speedbird]

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More pictures
I'm going to do the same thing with the stainless that goes next to the door glass.
But that will be a little trickier since the it is thinner and will require more fitting.
The tape just barely catches the aluminum underside.
Being sure that some was under the leading tip of the fender piece to protect it.


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[Speedbird]

My buffer.
Wheels and compound from Horror Fright.

 

[Speedbird]

I'm starting to do the same thing for the stainless pieces that go next to the door windows.
Same thing use stainless washers and machine screws so rust doesn't ever run down a spoil the paint.
I've got no idea if the original style clips are even available.
But I think that was for ease of production. Mine were rusted into pieces.
A TIG unit makes it easy. I used a piece of thick copper and made a fixture to hold the screw head just above the washer and melted it with a TIG. Drilled a hole just deep enough for the screw to be held in position to weld to the washer.
Sorry, no pictures of that.
Making these requires a little extra work because the stainless trim doesn't have a "dome".
So I've got to take off some of the machine screw head material to fit them.
I'll put the trim tape under the stainless too so it doesn't gouge the paint.

 

[Speedbird]

When I got the stainless trim pieces on next to the window I discovered that there was no room for nuts. Its tight there unlike the aluminum trim on the doors. Maybe if I had used shorter screws.
Anyway I already had the trim tape on them and they were stuck. So I just reached up and smeared polyurethane sealant on the machine screws where they were touching the door to glue them in place. Worked good and will never come off. I figure that's a good thing at this point.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

I'm impressed! You and I think alike! Very cool process. I love figuring stuff like this out.

 

[dragrazor]

Great ideas
I got trim from 4 66s, enough bad pcs that I have plenty to practice removing dents, dings and straighten

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Yep, head to the local salvage yard and pick up a handful of trim to practice on. Great idea.

 

[tomlin]

I have a couple questions. Please excuse my ignorance. How did you get the nuts on the studs on the front fenders? I realize some of the holes are exposed but others seem to be hidden. Is this where the tape comes into play? I am impressed with stud/nut idea and I am in the same boat. I recently did a drivers quality paint job and hate to gouge it up. I am not a fan of the plastic clip setup.

 

[Speedbird]

I have a couple questions. Please excuse my ignorance. How did you get the nuts on the studs on the front fenders? I realize some of the holes are exposed but others seem to be hidden. Is this where the tape comes into play? I am impressed with stud/nut idea and I am in the same boat. I recently did a drivers quality paint job and hate to gouge it up. I am not a fan of the plastic clip setup.

As far as I'm concerned this was well worth investing in a TIG just to do this job.
You know where a good cheap one can be bought if necessary.
Horror Fright.
To make the fasteners all you need to do is melt a little of the screw head to the modified washer.
The tape holds the trim pretty much on. The studs are for extra insurance.
Yea. I didn't want to slam metal trim down on my new paint.
I guess you are asking about these two areas.
The other ones are easy.
I would recommend making a hole though the rear rib and using a long screws.
Either that or making a bigger hole to get the nut and socket on up trough the rib.
I did both. One on each side.
It was a mistake that I did.
I did not use a long screw on the passenger side.
I had to learn. (That's why my door is off the passenger's side. Bang head)
The front fastener require a little more precision work to fit in the trim.
Getting the nut on can be a pain if the fender is on the car.
I would recommend doing all this before the fenders are hung if possible.
I've very happy with how it all turned out.
What I was saying about the stainless trim up by the door glass was that when I put them on I discovered the screws were tight against door metal.
It was stuck so I just smeared some polyurethane sealant from underneath on the screws.
I also put white polyurethane in the holes before putting that stainless on to keep the screws from ever moving against the painted metal in the holes.
Just a little OCD overkill.

 

[Speedbird]

Oh. For what it's worth.
Made a guide fixture to rough cut the washers with a cut off wheel to an oversize.
I then stacked a few washers on a screw with nut and used a belt sander to get them down to a width that worked.
You know. All at once.
I didn't do them individually for the most part.

 

[tomlin]

My fenders are on but may be able to get to most of the studs if I go that route. I haven't decided yet. It is a great idea. Good work man and thanks for sharing.