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Another electrical problem! ALternator charging to much...

mpro69rr

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Took My 69 RR 383 for a ride this morning and saw the alternator charging pegged to the max and then a little smoke under the dash! This is a brand new harness, what the hell is going on! Yesterday when I ran it, it wasn't doing this, the only thing I did was ground the wiper switch to the steering column and it was fine! any one know what is going on? Shouldn't fuses be going off?
 
Don't know it this is pertinent to your situation, but when I first bought my '69 RR I noticed the volt meter pegged as well after installing the volt gauge. It still had the old (OEM) mechanical voltage regulator. I replaced it with a wells VR706 and problem solved.
 
Don't know it this is pertinent to your situation, but when I first bought my '69 RR I noticed the volt meter pegged as well after installing the volt gauge. It still had the old (OEM) mechanical voltage regulator. I replaced it with a wells VR706 and problem solved.

Don't know much about electrical but could that just go on a whim? Is that the rectangle box on the back of then firewall next to the ballast resister?
 
Road Runner 2   383 Motor.JPG
Yup, you got it. It is clearly visible in this picture (silver box above the air filter, between the ballast resistor and the wiper motor). The old OEM unit was bigger, boxier and black.
 
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Yup, you got it. It is clearly visible in this picture (silver box above the air filter, between the ballast resistor and the wiper motor). The old OEM unit was bigger, boxier and black.View attachment 791415

Thanks, I just ordered one from autozone, it will be here at 03:00 PM.
 
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Just something to keep in the back of your mind. IF you are running an electronic ignition like mine (Mopar Performance), I was told by someone here that they DO NOT like over charging. Sure enough, not long after, my ignition just quit and I had to replace the ECU (orange box). Now having said that, I do not know how long it was being overcharged as this happened not long after I got the car. Could have been going on for a short period or for years.
 
Just something to keep in the back of your mind. IF you are running an electronic ignition like mine (Mopar Performance), I was told by someone here that they DO NOT like over charging. Sure enough, not long after, my ignition just quit and I had to replace the ECU (orange box).

Nope, not running electronic ignition. I just hope the wiring is OK, it was smoking under the dash.
 
OUCH! About where was the smoke coming from? Left of the column, passengers side, center?
 
Electronics are not my strong point either, but there are many guys here who are and I'm sure they'll chime in soon.

I'd have a look and see if you spot anything obvious under the dash. I think the weak point is the ammeter and it is in that location. I bypassed mine. If the car won't start, I think that would be my first suspect.
 
Check for burnt/melted wires right at the bulkhead connection.Like Ranger said above the ammeter connection at the bulkhead connector usually fails on these 50 year old cars.
 
Electronics are not my strong point either, but there are many guys here who are and I'm sure they'll chime in soon.

I'd have a look and see if you spot anything obvious under the dash. I think the weak point is the ammeter and it is in that location. I bypassed mine. If the car won't start, I think that would be my first suspect.

Yeah, I looked around and couldn't find anything. The car does run, no problem except the gauge pegged.
 
Check for burnt/melted wires right at the bulkhead connection.Like Ranger said above the ammeter connection at the bulkhead connector usually fails on these 50 year old cars.

Yeah I couldn't see anything. Its a brand new harness.
 
OK, but just to clarify, when I said my gauge was pegged, I was talking about my aftermarket VOLT meter, not the factory ammeter.
 
OK, but just to clarify, when I said my gauge was pegged, I was talking about my aftermarket VOLT meter, not the factory ammeter.

AH OK, My ammeter was pegged.
 
Not saying this is your problem but how old is your battery? I just went thru this with my 63. Bought a new battery for the wife's car and took the 5 year old battery to fire the 63. Volt meter was charging 16+ volts. Swapped out the regulator(twice) and still was charging high even after the car was running for about a hour. Took the fresh battery and installed it. Charge was at 14.2 volts with the fresh battery. The old battery started the cars fine but I believe the 5 year old was just weak . I don't know,,maybe.
 
Not saying this is your problem but how old is your battery? I just went thru this with my 63. Bought a new battery for the wife's car and took the 5 year old battery to fire the 63. Volt meter was charging 16+ volts. Swapped out the regulator(twice) and still was charging high even after the car was running for about a hour. Took the fresh battery and installed it. Charge was at 14.2 volts with the fresh battery. The old battery started the cars fine but I believe the 5 year old was just weak . I don't know,,maybe.

I have a brand new battery. Just checked it putting out 12.3 volts.
 
That's what I thought. Just shooting in the dark,might hit the right answer.
 
When you install your new regulator, make sure the wire going to the pos. or ign. terminal is reading the same voltage as the battery. If it is less, then the alt. will overcharge. Make sure the reg. has a good ground.
 
When you install your new regulator, make sure the wire going to the pos. or ign. terminal is reading the same voltage as the battery. If it is less, then the alt. will overcharge. Make sure the reg. has a good ground.

OK, I installed a new voltage regulator. The ammeter doesn't peg all the way to the right but stays in between the middle and right. It use to stay a little off center, is this still a problem?
Anybody?
 
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