Another question on replacing rear main seal?

[AR67GTX]

None of the instructions I’ve read on changing the rear seal mentions any RTV behind the lower seal in the retainer groove. Seems that might be a good idea on the lower half but I noted the old seal in the retainer did not have a square back that fully fills the recess (haven’t received new seals from Hughes to inspect yet). So, I’m wondering if the seal needs to be able to rotate or move some in the groove as the retainer is tightened down to seat the seal on the crank? Is that the case?

 

[Jerry Hall]

The only sealer we use is just a dab on the ends of each half. We do cock the halves so that some of upper goes into the lower and part of the lower goes into the upper. Maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" That pretty well eliminates leaks.

 

[steve340]

Some RTV to seal the back side of the seal would not hurt. Not too much just a smear.
No I do not believe the seal needs to be able to rotate as you tighten it.

 

[66Satellite47]

I always used the method that Jerry Hall used, the seals a bit offset and a tiny bit of RTV on each end of the seal. Worked great.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks, I intend to off set the seal about 1/8” from the joint (I could do a little more) and apply Loctite 518 to the ends and put a thin smear of RTV on the retainer joint top surfaces that mate to the block. Just wasn’t sure about in the groove.

 

[R413]

I never turn the seal or use sealer on the ends. the factory didn’t do that either and they made millions of cars with a 5 year warranty. I never have any leaks. Fel-pro rubber seal in a stock seal retainer.

 

[AR67GTX]

Arrghhh - second drive and I have some oil w/dye on the bottom of the bellhousing access plate Coming from the weep hole. Guess I’ll pull the cover and see if it’s just seeping down from the side seals (try again next winter) or if it’s being slung around by the flywheel by the crank main seal (get on it now).

 

[AR67GTX]

After the car cooled down I got under it to take a closer look and it’s the new valve cover gaskets leaking. I tightened them up snuggly about 5 times over 3 or 4 says and ran the car a few minutes to warm the heads up but the nuts were loose again after driving it this morning. I pulled the clutch cover and surprise - no oil or UV highlights inside the bellhousing or inside of the clutch cover. So guess I just need to stay after the valve cover gaskets until they stabilize.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Must've let out a sigh of relief!

 

[Geoff 2]

Three Hail Mary's to Allah.....