anyone machined there billet rear main seal cap?

[benno440]

i have seen on some other forums that when they have used a billet rear main cap and arp studs in the main caps that they have machined there seal cap to fit around the studs and to provide better runoff for oil.

anyone done this? and have any recommendations for the machining?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Is the billet cap the same design as the original? Reason I ask is because Chrysler installed millions without issue. Although they do seep over time, they don't run oil out like a drain plug as you've described. You've got something *wrong* from what it sounds like to me. Getting the cap machined for better runoff sounds like a band-aid to me.

 

[Meep-Meep]

It almost sounds like they are machining clearance in the cap for the main studs / nuts and nothing else and any clearance around the hardware must be theoretically a better path for runoff. That seal cap MUST seal to the sides of the block, the area around the 3/8-16 threads and of course around the crank while forming the rear part of the pan rail. If you are puking oil out of that area then sum ting wong. I'm with Rusty. The factory part is far from being considered a failure.

 

[coloradodave]

I agree with the above posts. I'd be looking at the upper and lower seals being put in backwards. Only thing I can think of that would cause oil to 'run' out.

 

[benno440]

i do still have the factory one, so i will give that a go, i read with the billet one which is the one i have on now that if you use it with arp main studs the cap gently rests oon the side of the no.5 main cap studs and doesnt seat completely. i also read that the factory ones can warp thus why i went the OE one. i will check the factory for straightness and try that, anyone recommend a good brand seal to replace it with?

also anyone shed any light on the deal with the knurling on the end of the aftermarket cranks i have a K1 crank and it looked like it has some knurling where the seal goes, will this cause any dramas or need a seal to suit?

thanks always guys

 

[RustyRatRod]

The knurl on the seal area is on every crank that I have ever seen. It is there to direct oil away from the rear main seal.

 

[Meep-Meep]

And the knurl acts like an oil pump so if it's cut wrong oil will go in the wrong direction. I have typically used the lip seal, which may be technically incorrect because if the crank is knurled that may indicate you should use a rope seal.

As long as the cap sits flat like it's supposed to and all the seals are in place you should be fine.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Exactly right, Meepamousamous. That's why a reverse rotation marine crank WILL do just that. lol

 

[benno440]

haha wouldnt that be funny if they sent me a marine crank.

why does rope seals take horsepower does it sit that snug that it causes friction?

 

[coloradodave]

Benno,
Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Use a FelPro seal and pan gasket and you'll be fine...

 

[benno440]

thanks bud, just want to get this engine perfect

 

[RustyRatRod]

thanks bud, just want to get this engine perfect

There's no such thing.

 

[cr8crshr]

There's no such thing.

Right you are Rusty. I had one on my 383 build but swapped back to the original one. Billet ones don't really match up like the originals. After a massive oil leak because of one, I went with the tried and true. We will see if I got it right this time but the saying, If it ain't Broke, then don't F**K with it" applies here....

 

[67 B-body]

Knock on wood,,,,, Mine still holds nicely and it's a factory OE unit. I used the pipe cleaners with RTV down the sides of the rear seal retainer, and a two piece lip seal from the Fel-Pro kit. I followed up with a coating of RTV along the retainer to block area and pushed as much in as I could with my finger as I spread it out evenly.
Seems to have worked out for me....

 

[MikeStahl]

that has always worked for me....67-B

 

[Cranky]

Can anyone post pics of that area and how you sealed it?