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Article on piston alloy comparison, and your real world experiences

biomedtechguy

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My not being a builder and mostly street driving my Roadrunner vs mostly or exclusively racing it, the topic of 2618 vs 4032 aluminum alloy (for pistons) came to my attention. My builder has ordered the rotating assembly for my 572 and he mentioned that the Diamond pistons (4.50 bore) were 2618 alloy and that is best for nitrous. I did a search (as I did for the alloy Bill Mitchell uses) just to learn more about the characteristics of it. I came across this article by JE that compares the composition of both alloys and how that affects the real world application in a build. JE uses both alloys.
I guess my main concern or question is for my application, if it turns out that I get to fulfill my desire to do some "Power Tour" or "Drag Week" type of events, or some multi-state cruising to select locations, and my track use is a smaller % of how I use my Roadrunner, and keeping in mind my only "guaranteed" event that I do on a yearly basis is the week of Cruisin the Coast, and that although I want to be able to add up to a 300HP shot of nitrous I may never get there, until I can "manage" the power it puts out as is.
So I'm going to lean on the experience of the forum as a point of reference, and ask for your opinions.
I also know that I may be over-analyzing this, but it keeps me motivated and widens my knowledge base on what is a once in my lifetime big dollar build that I have ONE shot at "getting right", so thanks in advance!
From the article:
"4032 alloy...This alloy is created with a high silicon content – a full 12 percent. The addition of silicon greatly reduces aluminum’s expansion rate, which means the piston can run with tighter cold clearances and makes for much quieter piston operation when the engine is cold...a piston with tight clearances is extremely quiet, making it an excellent choice for a street engine. This additional silicon content also improves this alloy’s durability, again making it a great street engine choice when subjected to thousands of low-load road miles. Besides the typical wear you might see along the piston skirts, the most critical position for ultimate performance is actually in the ring grooves. One major advantage to 4032 is its additional wear resistance, which will maintain the proper ring groove clearance and means a better seal over more miles travelled."
Now I have hardly driven my Roadrunner over the last year, but I certainly want that to be the exception, and I hope to be behind the wheel a lot more this year, and in the future, but that's still going to be mostly local cruises, and may be an hour or two to as little as 20-45 minutes one way.
Again, from the article:
"The main difference with a 2618 alloy, as represented with the JE race piston line, is its very low silicon content. This makes the 2618 piston much more malleable and offers advantages under high load, high stress applications as with power adders like superchargers, turbochargers, or nitrous oxide. However, this lower silicon content also means the piston has a greater linear expansion rate, which must be compensated with greater ambient piston-to-wall clearances. Essentially, a 2618 piston will expand 15 percent more than a 4032 version. This, as we’ve mentioned, is the reason a 2618 piston requires more clearance, and as a result, will be slightly noisier when cold as opposed to a comparable 4032 forging....despite the differences in piston-to-wall clearances when cold, once the pistons reach operating temperature, given similar piston structure, both the 2618 and 4032 alloys would be operating with very similar clearances. This further reinforces why the 2618 piston starts with a larger cold clearance."
There's more to the article, and I guess the good news for me is this:
"If you find yourself straddling the alloy fence, the good news is it’s difficult to make a bad decision."
Again, I'm probably over-analyzing, but I'd like to know what your thoughts are, other than I'm lucky to have found a builder and a forum family that can tolerate my inquisitive nature...lol.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/08/piston-faceoff-2618-vs-4032-aluminum-alloys/
 
Here's my builder's comment:
"200 shot on 4032. many do and many end up tossing out a good motor. Why not buy right once and not have limitations or weakness. I try to build for future growth and if not needed you still have the added strength."
 
I am busy on this topic same.

my engine builder say, he take 4032 alloy better if on street and strip. Longlife… But I will busy that again when I order the pistons. Diamond Pistons make customized Pistons with 4032 alloy and measurement…
 
4032 alloys
& a bit more malleable/meaning softer too,
can be more forgiving for daily driving
can be forged or cast
many of the Hypertechnic pistons IIRC are that alloy
great for street/strip use, occasional strip use

IMHFO ^^^
borderline use with an expensive engine build & N20,
even just an occasional 50-150 shot (a 300 shot no fucken' way)

2618 is a *harder/tougher 'forgings' alloy,
*it's more resilient for racing usage
*it's intended for racing/abuse
(can still be street driven very easily)
*can/will have tighter tolerances too,
& it machines very well
*can be lightened for different applications
making for lighter & still strong pistons
*better for N20 or boosted applications also
*good with gas-ported engines/top rings etc.
*they do well with some of the more popular coatings too
*they don't really expand all that much differently,
being a harder/tougher alloy
(we're talking another 0.001"-0.002 diff. - in 4"s)
but the right tolerances are necessary...

*all pluses in my book

---------------------------------------------------------------

it's sort of like
comparing 6061 (softer easier to work with)
vs
comparing 7075 (much harder to work with, but stronger)

opinions will vary
That's mine
 
Last edited:
I run 2618 forged and plan to buy my next set 2618 as well because of nitrous. I do notice some "piston slap" when the engine is cold....which can make a little nervous wondering if you have a wrist pin loose or a rocker arm bent....but it goes away in a couple minutes. I just never, ever rev the engine or drive it hard until it is 100% warmed up
 
I am busy on this topic same.

my engine builder say, he take 4032 alloy better if on street and strip. Longlife… But I will busy that again when I order the pistons. Diamond Pistons make customized Pistons with 4032 alloy and measurement…
It took me a moment to get past the "Me Tarzan..You Jane" caveman tempo as I read your post, but then I realized that it's German being translated by some kind of software I guess.
I'm the guy who got involved to try to help you get your block from "the other company" and after a long time you finally got a refund.
I got my aluminum RB wedge block through my builder who is a dealer for Bill Mitchell. Which block did you wind up with?
 
4032 alloys
& a bit more malleable/meaning softer too,
can be more forgiving for daily driving
can be forged or cast
many of the Hypertechnic pistons IIRC are that alloy
great for street/strip use, occasional strip use

IMHFO ^^^
borderline use with an expensive engine build & N20,
even just an occasional 50-150 shot (a 300 shot no fucken' way)

2618 is a *harder/tougher 'forgings' alloy,
*it's more resilient for racing usage
*it's intended for racing/abuse
(can still be street driven very easily)
*can/will have tighter tolerances too,
& it machines very well
*can be lightened for different applications
making for lighter & still strong pistons
*better for N20 or boosted applications also
*good with gas-ported engines/top rings etc.
*they do well with some of the more popular coatings too
*they don't really expand all that much differently,
being a harder/tougher alloy
(we're talking another 0.001"-0.002 diff. - in 4"s)
but the right tolerances are necessary...

*all pluses in my book

---------------------------------------------------------------

it's sort of like
comparing 6061 (softer easier to work with)
vs
comparing 7075 (much harder to work with, but stronger)

opinions will vary
That's mine
Thanks Budnicks!
I run 2618 forged and plan to buy my next set 2618 as well because of nitrous. I do notice some "piston slap" when the engine is cold....which can make a little nervous wondering if you have a wrist pin loose or a rocker arm bent....but it goes away in a couple minutes. I just never, ever rev the engine or drive it hard until it is 100% warmed up
Thanks PurpleBeeper!
I had already decided to go with his choice, FORGED 2618, and I edited out his grouchy part about "internet research"...lol.
 
If you’re gonna spray it, 2618 and forget it. Most of those pistons will be set up at .0045 piston to wall and they’ll specify an extra .001 or so adder for the nitrous. That’s not exactly “loose” to where you will have big time piston slap noises.
 
There is no way I would put anything but 2618 in your engine bio. IMHO, any motor that want to make big power, n/a,boosted or nitroused, needs the strongest available for the job. 2618.
(I have three sets of Ross 2618 in the bedroom, waiting to go in their motors)
 
Thanks again for all your replies.
I KNOW I have an experienced builder, and as I told him, I am just inquisitive, and I am trying to learn about the what and why of this MAJOR investment and once in my lifetime opportunity.
I actually had texted him this morning after one of my best clients
("big" facility relatively speaking, director of a department I did work for had encouraged me to start my own business, and has been a major source of my income) contacted me about doing a HUGE job like I did for them 3 years ago. It's a real blessing, the kind that really "makes your day" and I wanted to share the good news with him. It should mean that by summer I will be able to pay for my TF 270s (whenever they are available again) and complete valvetrain, intake, and hopefully ALL of the remaining parts. If I can, I'm going to pay off the rest of the build, parts, labor, everything. Then he mentioned that he ordered the pistons, the alloy Diamond uses, and that led me to look that up, and here we are.
 
Last edited:
It took me a moment to get past the "Me Tarzan..You Jane" caveman tempo as I read your post, but then I realized that it's German being translated by some kind of software I guess.
I'm the guy who got involved to try to help you get your block from "the other company" and after a long time you finally got a refund.
I got my aluminum RB wedge block through my builder who is a dealer for Bill Mitchell. Which block did you wind up with?

my block is Callies. On the way to me in germany. Bill Mitchell Block is good, but it can problem with germany street rules because it is aluminium block. I run better with cast iron block as original (closer to original is good)
 
4032 pistons have their place. In instances like a short rod 383 Chevy or a 347 ford where the rod can pull a large portion of the piston out of the bottom of the bore. I might have spec’ed a tighter skirted piston to combat piston rock at the bottom of the stroke. But usually if it was for a serious motor 2618 all the way. Like was said before me. Just let the rotating assembly warm up and play nice with the block.
 
I am thinking about 2618 or 4032… for my 472cui Hemi, mostly street cruising, with any hot street / mild-Medium performance.

4.25“ bore
4.15“ stroke (molnar crank and Rods)
426-SR INDY heads (valve 2.25“-1.94“) with #928-16 Valve springs (comp cams)
Stock Intake manifold (2x4bbl)
Milodon 7qts oil pan with 1/2“ oil pick up + Melling HV oil pump
Clevite H Bearings

Open:
Camshaft with around .53 to .56 lift (Crower, Hughes or others)
Pistons (Idk which alloy will build, 2618 or 4032)
AVS2 500cfm cars (2ea)
MSD ignition

Compression ratio should around 10.25:1 to 10.3:1 (as stock) and around 550hp to 600hp (should more better torque profile)

I need for recommendation Pistons and Camshaft
 
I wouldn't use Comp springs. Pac will give much better service life. Been down that trail. Current Pacs will go at least 300 7200 rpm passes and not lose any pressure. Never broke one either. Cam is 285/292 @ .050" 310/805 psi with Pac 1224 set @1.950" .Broke my first 7 Comp springs @158 passes
Doug
 
FWIW, I would defer to DVW's advice.
The springs part# you posted are the ones I have on my warmed over, hydraulic flat tappet D-->C 292°/.509 cam and they replaced stock worn out springs.
Now they've been GREAT for me, especially because they replaced really worn stockers, and the power band my combo runs strongest in was practically unobtainable before I changed the springs, the ones I replaced were THAT bad.
 
I am thinking about 2618 or 4032… for my 472cui Hemi, mostly street cruising, with any hot street / mild-Medium performance.

4.25“ bore
4.15“ stroke (molnar crank and Rods)
426-SR INDY heads (valve 2.25“-1.94“) with #928-16 Valve springs (comp cams)
Stock Intake manifold (2x4bbl)
Milodon 7qts oil pan with 1/2“ oil pick up + Melling HV oil pump
Clevite H Bearings

Open:
Camshaft with around .53 to .56 lift (Crower, Hughes or others)
Pistons (Idk which alloy will build, 2618 or 4032)
AVS2 500cfm cars (2ea)
MSD ignition

Compression ratio should around 10.25:1 to 10.3:1 (as stock) and around 550hp to 600hp (should more better torque profile)

I need for recommendation Pistons and Camshaft
In my humble opinion....for your Hemi, 2618 100%
I have used Arias, Ross, . I would use any QUALITY piston manufacturer than can build you what you want, either shelf or custom.
My next purchase will be from Icon, but there are many good piston builders. I might look at Racetech if I were you.
 
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