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B Block or RB Block for 500 ci build

My 400/470 is friggin’ awesome. Revs to the moon and mild mannered, that is till I hit go pedal!
That sounds like a good way to go. Seems that that would make a great engine. Can be done eith 6.7 rods and 1.32CH pistons or 6.535 rod and 1.48CH pistons.
 
when picking a 400 block check the casting num some have the beefiest bottom webbing of any engine block cast by anybody , not all yrs just some. far stronger than anything before or after.
I got a 72 400 block but was decked .010
 
when picking a 400 block check the casting num some have the beefiest bottom webbing of any engine block cast by anybody , not all yrs just some. far stronger than anything before or after.

Core shift and cylinder wall thickness are the most important.
 
Zero deck that thing and stroke it!!
 
Thanks for the info. That's a great way to go, I was thinking the same but I have a 400 block that was decked .010 and that 1.32 piston comes out of the hole. I was looking at the Diamond with 1.305 CH. I will do up the math and see which one works well in terms of CR. With 91 and 93 pump gas I think I should stay at 10.5 max and dynamic of 8.4
You can use the .051 head gasket and you will be okay.
 
I went with the ultralight crank to see if it would help with clearance. Should all fit without clearancing 512ci
 
I went with the ultralight crank to see if it would help with clearance. Should all fit without clearancing 512ci

Crank isnt the issue with clearance and won’t make a difference. The 4.250 kit falls in pretty good with the chevy pin. I only had to clearance the oil pump boss a small amount. Cylinders didn’t need anything.

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The 230 block has the strongest bottom end. Only came in the 72 400s I believe.
 
I got a 72 400 block but was decked .010

When we built my 451, we noticed the block had been decked in a big way - pistons should have been like 0.017 in the hole but were 0.003 out. We just used cometic gaskets to make up the difference. Worked great.

Far as journal strength... who here as ever seen a cap or journal blasted out the bottom of a 440? I dunno, seems to me main studs and decent rods are all that’s needed? Even 700HP motors are never really exposing their bottom ends to all 700HP unless they’re racing... and that’s for seconds at a time.
 
I built two 400 block 451/452 cut down 440 steel crank motors for drag racing (550 HP). One low deck stock rod 6.38), one stock 440 LY rod, both shot peened, SPS bolts. Short rod version ran 7200-7400 rpm through traps. Took it apart still running fine but #5 main cracked in half & crank didn't ring like good steel crank does. approx 400 runs. Block (3698630) held up fine, no more heat than similar 440. Rod angle depends on L/R ratio (rod length/stroke) which affects wall loading, ring life and wear difference is minimal. IMHO L/R does impact intake & head performance. Shorter rod makes bigger port heads/intake more responsive. Keep RPM's below 6500 & have no durability issues. Modern crank & rod combos should be FAR more durable than the stock based stuff I ran. Longer stroke, more cubes, more torque. FYI my 500" RB, EDE head, 10.5 CR motor was very streetable & brutal on the tires.
BTW zero deck is just fine with correct head gskts.
 
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Low deck 500Ci scat crank wiesco pistons and k1 rods. trick flow 270 heads, bullet solid roller. best to date 11.32@120mph. in my 3900lb coronet.
 
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