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B&M shift cable routing

Bird 426

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Location
Illinois
'69 Road Runner
Coan 727
B&M rachet shifter
Switching from a 4-speed to automatic. Cable seems to have a pretty sharp turn out of the bracket. Should I go under the engine and bring it up on the passenger side, or driver side? Man, that's a tight turn.

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Yup. They're ugly. Bend up and right around starter looping up and back down top of trans.
 
I dont know....my two cents is slip a piece of braided heat sleeve over that cable, and maybe work in a longer cable. Like the stuff they used to use on the factory starter cables. Everytime i tried to use a b&m cable with a tight bend, it would end up melting and popping right thru the sheathing.
 
The first cable i looped up around the starter and back to the shifter on the drivers side. Even with heat blankets it melted the cable. Now i run mine up around the passenger side. No issues so far.
 
Mine is currently routed around the starter, It's in a heat shield sleeve from the trans bracket to where it passes through he trans tunnel wall. Only qualifier is the car is not a street car, the longest it's been run so far is about 30-40 min. No issues yet...
 
Thanks guys for answering. Coming up on the passenger side is the most appealing at the moment. This is all a dry run. I bent up the cooler lines, then got the header into place. Wasted my time on the ones that I made. Think that steel braided AN lines are going to be the answer. Didn't want to go that way, but I can't bend 3/8" that tight, and get it all going through literally an elongated hole by the shift cable without making a lot of scrap. Staying with the Dakota starter. Going to test fit the engine in tomorrow, probably be more questions that need answers. Should have left the 4-speed in!
Yes , will need some type of heat shields or fire sleeve, or both.
Thank you again for answering!
 
'69 Road Runner
Coan 727
B&M rachet shifter
Switching from a 4-speed to automatic. Cable seems to have a pretty sharp turn out of the bracket. Should I go under the engine and bring it up on the passenger side, or driver side? Man, that's a tight turn.

View attachment 1872140

View attachment 1872142
I bought a longer cable, went all the to the radiator and came back on passenger side. It is 69 “stock” GTX.
 
I run my cables around the right side. The normal 5’ cable works with the front cable exit shifter. Used to burn cables when fmucking around on the left side, switched to the right side years ago, never a problem since. You can fish up in between the dipstick tube and trans also.
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Yes, thank you. Very clean work! That is how I am going to do it. Going to try and get the trans in tomorrow. I'm sure it will work out now.
Thanks again to all that answered.
 
Yes they do! Just ordered a 6' longer cable. I have run into so many fires to put out. Tubular front suspension, engine sitting too far back, redo engine mounts. Steering shaft from column to rack &pinion hitting no #5 exhaust tube. The hits just keep on coming. It's going to sit for awhile after July 1st, surgery on my left rotater cuff. Maybe finish it off over the winter.
I have to hand it to the guys that race and work on these, especially inside the confines of a stock engine compartment. I helped on an old '70 Pro Stock Cuda back in the day. Do not remember things being so difficult, but I was 22 then, I'm 75 now.
 
Those Hemis in b bodies with TTI headers get real crowded real quick lol. Nice work.
Yes they do! Just ordered a 6' longer cable. I have run into so many fires to put out. Tubular front suspension, engine sitting too far back, redo engine mounts. Steering shaft from column to rack &pinion hitting no #5 exhaust tube. The hits just keep on coming. It's going to sit for awhile after July 1st, surgery on my left rotater cuff. Maybe finish it off over the winter.
I have to hand it to the guys that race and work on these, especially inside the confines of a stock engine compartment. I helped on an old '70 Pro Stock Cuda back in the day. Do not remember things being so difficult, but I was 22 then, I'm 75 now.

Man, you’re doing darned good for your age and it’s nice to see. You sure got lots going on there too but one fire after another you’ll put them out.

Now speaking of space issues.. I’m swapping out black Stage V valve covers for polished Aluminum. Well who woulda thought that the Indy Cross Ram won’t fit in between.. Of all the reading and digging, I’ve never come across that. Here I was worried about the right side shock tower, the steering shaft and master cylinder but the damned intake? My luck.

Both sides, contact.
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Man, you’re doing darned good for your age and it’s nice to see. You sure got lots going on there too but one fire after another you’ll put them out.

Now speaking of space issues.. I’m swapping out black Stage V valve covers for polished Aluminum. Well who woulda thought that the Indy Cross Ram won’t fit in between.. Of all the reading and digging, I’ve never come across that. Here I was worried about the right side shock tower, the steering shaft and master cylinder but the damned intake? My luck.

Both sides, contact.
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View attachment 1875250
Gotta love Hemis. They bring all kinds of fun into the garage hahah
 
We learn something everyday. Hope you find an answer to your intake conflicts. After re doing my front engine mounts yesterday, I find that the driver's side now has 2 points of contact, header/steering shaft and header motor mount. Put one fire out, started another one. When you get to the end of the list, you can start it. Haven't gotten my good valve covers back from powder coat yet. These chrome ones are junk, wall hangers after being dust covers for now.
Hang in there, we're all in this together. I need more duct tape.

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I ran a B&M Quicksilver shifter and melted a couple of cables. I ended up running it inside a high temperature silicone catalytic converter hose covered with a DSE sleeve. I ran it right up behind the starter and made a bracket to hold it in place using the stock kickdown linkage boss in the bellhousing.

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One of the biggest PITA we have found with my dad’s Hemi Roadrunner is pulling the passenger valve cover to run valves. Need to disconnect the top of the shock and loosen the rebound and compression and push the shock below the inner fender to get the valve cover off. Fun times. I sure hope you get the valve cover and intake situation figured out. It’s amazing how complicated things get when trying to accomplish something so simple.
 
Hopefully my 1 ft longer cable will do the trick. I do plan on some DEI heat shield in two spots, probably not needed ,but will do it anyway. Passenger side for cable route.
 
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