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Bad bearings Concorde

welder47

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Just for the hell of it I pulled the pan to see where that annoying ticking sound was comming from. Two bad rod bearings, not spun but quite worn. Good thing its about a 30.00 fix and two hours of my time. At least the pan is fairly easy to remove except for the two front bolts that my hands dont reach very well. Nothing is built good anymore, all disposable. A replaced bearing beats a rod through the block. Maybe a different oil would help out some and some lucas oil treatment mixed in. Nice car with a junk designed engine.
 
Is it the 2.7 motor? The issue may not be the bearings, but clogged passages feeding them. If it is the 2.7, then switch to synthetic, and keep a regular oil change schedule. The 2.7's had issues with clogged oil passages. Conventional oil would "coke-up" and block passages. If you have 4 hours to kill, Google "2.7, chrysler, problems"
 
It is the 2.7. Have the new bearings now. Do you think the passages will clear out or do I have to fish something through them, havent assembled the crank rods yet. The pan looks fairly clean but the oil was dirty.
 
Don't know that engine but if you can prime it try this. On my son's furd engine we drained it filled it with a jug of WD40 primed while turning by hand, drained that. Filled with some decent used oil, primed and turned. Drained that then filled with new and primed. Sound like a real ordeal, but wasn't that bad with two of us going at it and it did help. My dad told me in the 50's they would fill them with coal oil and started the thing, go figure.
 
The general consensus is that the passages were too small/ too close/ to little flow near the high heat parts of the block. That would cause conventional motor oil to bake, or "coke", further reducing the available flow through these hot areas. A process that will feed on itself till oil starvation causes failure. The timing chain tensioner also relies on oil pressure for its operation [another common failure on these motors]. Reduced oil pressure to it causes the chain to slacken, and then catastrophic failure. I dont see that rodding the passages is possible with the crank in the car, but if the issue is near the oil feed holes in the crank, then some poking around with copper wire shouldn't hurt it. In some of the forums discussing the fixes for this motor, flushing was discussed as a double-edged sword. It may remove crap, but that means that the crap is now mobile, and may end up in a smaller, or worse spot! The one thing that was agreed upon, was the use of synthetic oils due to their great resistance to thermal breakdown. If anyone reading this has more advice, I'd like to hear it also. Sorry to bring you down with the info about this motor. You started out with a simple repair, but now you may feel like you have a time bomb there.
 
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