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Bergman Auto Craft October Promotion

BergmanAutoCraft

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Bergman Auto Craft beats the competition again by offering the original SPC Gen 1 upper control arms for a budget friendly 499/pr! Testing revealed the need for a more stable mounting solution. We use a greasable delrin bushing assembly designed to fit the Mopar mounting sockets just like a stock arm.

Bergman Auto Craft/SPC Upper Control Arms allow the highest degree of adjustment on the market. These arms allow a wide range of adjustment without touching the factory eccentrics. This arm features delrin bushings with grease fittings for precise and quiet operation. Wheel alignments are greatly simplified due to the double adjustable design. Arms are sold by the pair with large style ball joints, hand assembled and ready to install. We are the exclusive supplier for this arm with high performance Delrin bushings installed.

Enjoy 10% off during the month of October using discount code BAC10

BAC SPC Upper Control Arms - Bergman Auto Craft

VERIFIED FITMENTS:

67-72 A Body, with late disc spindles

73-76 A Body

70-74 E Body

SPC Gen 1 Complete.JPG
 
If they fit E-body then shouldn’t they be fitting 62-72 B-body?
 
I highly recommend these , I've installed a few sets and they're excellent.
However, luckily I've caught that the balljoints are installed as noted... but they aren't torqued. You may want to leave a note in the box about that.
Might be purchasing some more-thats a great price!
 
I highly recommend these , I've installed a few sets and they're excellent.
However, luckily I've caught that the balljoints are installed as noted... but they aren't torqued. You may want to leave a note in the box about that.
Might be purchasing some more-thats a great price!
We're sorry yours weren't torqued. They were supposed to be.
 
Peter, regarding the SPC 1.0 vs the 2.0... on my 71 Coronet would using the taller 73-up B body knuckle with the 1.0 give a similar benefit to running the 2.0 on my oem shorter knuckle? I'm speaking specifically about the camber curve benefit from the 2.0's taller ball joint.
 
Hi Peter, yes that is my question as well. I have a 68 Coronet. What is the difference and or benifits of the 1.0 vs. the 2.0 you mentioned a few days back? Thanks .
 
Peter, regarding the SPC 1.0 vs the 2.0... on my 71 Coronet would using the taller 73-up B body knuckle with the 1.0 give a similar benefit to running the 2.0 on my oem shorter knuckle? I'm speaking specifically about the camber curve benefit from the 2.0's taller ball joint.
Any increase in height will help. I’ve used the F spindle. I don’t know if the 73 and up B spindles are different.
Combine with the proper alignment which you can get with either arm, you will be impressed.
 
Hi Peter, yes that is my question as well. I have a 68 Coronet. What is the difference and or benifits of the 1.0 vs. the 2.0 you mentioned a few days back? Thanks .
The 2.0 is all forged construction. It’s the only arm on the market like this. It also has the taller ball joint I mentioned earlier. The 2.0 uses a thin high durometer rubber bushing. The 1.0 uses a delrin bushing.
 
The high ball joint would be the key I’m assuming. I don’t know much about the thin rubber bushing on 2.0, but I do know the Delrin is a proven good product.
 

Peter, since you haven't found your way there follow the link & Scroll up to post 231
 
Any increase in height will help. I’ve used the F spindle. I don’t know if the 73 and up B spindles are different.
Combine with the proper alignment which you can get with either arm, you will be impressed.
The info I got on the knuckle interchange is from the internet, so who knows how reliable.
It's from here: Mopar B-Body Knuckle Interchange

The relevant sections on the page say: "B-Body vehicles from 1962 to 1972 used a short front knuckle with a small 1.250-inch-diameter inner wheel bearing surface. In 1973, the inner wheel bearing diameter increased to 1.375 inches, and the overall height of the knuckle was increased by roughly .375 inch. Although the spindle diameter was only increased by 10 percent, it reduces the bending of the spindle by almost 50 percent. The earlier Mopar spindles weren’t known for breaking, but a 50-percent increase in stiffness seems well worth a very slight increase in weight."

"The tall big-bearing knuckle has casting numbers 3402638 and 3402639. These knuckles came on late-model B-Body cars, as well as all of the FMJ vehicles."

So if I'm reading your website correctly, Peter, a late B/FMJ knuckle (3/8" taller)/V1.0 combo would be an improvement, just not as much as the 1/2" taller ball joint in the V2.0 in my early (shorter) B knuckles, and the optimum would be the V2.0/late B/FMJ knuckle.
 
Not to piss on Peter's efforts here but I don't think there are any measurable benefits from switching to the later knuckle if your car is well sorted and already has the earlier knuckle.
If you are looking to do a swap from drum to discs then sure....go for what is available. The FMJR knuckles are still found on the RWD Fifth Avenue/Diplomat/Gran Fury cars through 1989. I still see those cars showing up in the self serve junkyards here in CA.
I swapped in the whole front disc arrangement form a 1975 Dart back in 2001. The front brakes came from a car I owned that was used in a VHS home movie I made where I actually jumped the car 4 times. Those knuckles are friggin tough.
 
Not to piss on Peter's efforts here but I don't think there are any measurable benefits from switching to the later knuckle if your car is well sorted and already has the earlier knuckle.
In my case, I have the short, drum knuckles... so pretty much anything except OEM is an improvement. :lol:
 
Not to piss on Peter's efforts here but I don't think there are any measurable benefits from switching to the later knuckle if your car is well sorted and already has the earlier knuckle.
If you are looking to do a swap from drum to discs then sure....go for what is available. The FMJR knuckles are still found on the RWD Fifth Avenue/Diplomat/Gran Fury cars through 1989. I still see those cars showing up in the self serve junkyards here in CA.
I swapped in the whole front disc arrangement form a 1975 Dart back in 2001. The front brakes came from a car I owned that was used in a VHS home movie I made where I actually jumped the car 4 times. Those knuckles are friggin tough.
Not to piss on Peter's efforts here but I don't think there are any measurable benefits from switching to the later knuckle if your car is well sorted and already has the earlier knuckle.
If you are looking to do a swap from drum to discs then sure....go for what is available. The FMJR knuckles are still found on the RWD Fifth Avenue/Diplomat/Gran Fury cars through 1989. I still see those cars showing up in the self serve junkyards here in CA.
I swapped in the whole front disc arrangement form a 1975 Dart back in 2001. The front brakes came from a car I owned that was used in a VHS home movie I made where I actually jumped the car 4 times. Those knuckles are friggin tough.
Oh yes there is….Speaking from experience not hypothetical!!!
The info I got on the knuckle interchange is from the internet, so who knows how reliable.
It's from here: Mopar B-Body Knuckle Interchange

The relevant sections on the page say: "B-Body vehicles from 1962 to 1972 used a short front knuckle with a small 1.250-inch-diameter inner wheel bearing surface. In 1973, the inner wheel bearing diameter increased to 1.375 inches, and the overall height of the knuckle was increased by roughly .375 inch. Although the spindle diameter was only increased by 10 percent, it reduces the bending of the spindle by almost 50 percent. The earlier Mopar spindles weren’t known for breaking, but a 50-percent increase in stiffness seems well worth a very slight increase in weight."

"The tall big-bearing knuckle has casting numbers 3402638 and 3402639. These knuckles came on late-model B-Body cars, as well as all of the FMJ vehicles."

So if I'm reading your website correctly, Peter, a late B/FMJ knuckle (3/8" taller)/V1.0 combo would be an improvement, just not as much as the 1/2" taller ball joint in the V2.0 in my early (shorter) B knuckles, and the optimum would be the V2.0/late B/FMJ knuckle.
you are correct.
 
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