Wanting to instal a AC kit for my 69 GTX, and wanting to know best kit. Going to see some strip action so interested in knowing how well they also stand up at higher rpms (but not on.) This is a non AC car.
Best AC kit for 69 GTX?
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q-ship
Well-Known Member
I don't know if any particular kit is better than another as they all use the same or similar parts (compressors, condensers, driers, etc).
Classic auto air is the largest producer and is the only aftermarket system I have ever dealt with. The only upgrades I have done to them is a larger condenser for better low speed/idle cooling, but this was for extreme temperature areas. I'm sure the supplied condenser is fine for all but the Vegas/Phoenix area of the country. Another consideration is that they will probably still be in business in the future should you need parts.
As for RPM potential of the compressor, virtually any compressor has no problem at any RPM if it is OFF as it is nothing more than an idler pulley when it's not running. The Sanden compressors that are universally used by the OEM and in aftermarket kits will easily handle 6,000 RPM (compressor RPM, which is dependent on pulley ratios) when running. When OFF, the belt should disintegrate from excessive RPM before the compressor clutch bearing. But keep in mind that these are the lowest end, fixed displacement compressors made by the company. Not that there is anything at all wrong with them, as they are working flawlessly in literally hundreds of millions of vehicles, but even Sanden has piston compressors that will go to 9600 RPM, and scroll units that will go over 10,000+ RPM, while being variable displacement - Non of which should be of any importance to you unless you will be driving a convertible through Death Valley, in the middle of summer, and the ice melting in your drink is totally unacceptable!
I only ever deal with A/C modified/taken to the absurdity for other A/C psychos like myself, but for just staying cool, I'm sure you will be happy with the Classic Auto Air system and probably others.
No matter who you decide to go with, I would recommend the largest condenser they offer as there is no downside to the extra capacity (even if the condenser is larger than your radiator opening), but can be night and day difference in low speed/idle cooling. Also, insulation of the firewall from the cabin can be dramatic, as relying on a 1/32nd thick piece of metal to insulate you from the multi hundred degree temperatures on the other side just doesn't work no matter how good the A/C system is.
I hope any of this helps.
Classic auto air is the largest producer and is the only aftermarket system I have ever dealt with. The only upgrades I have done to them is a larger condenser for better low speed/idle cooling, but this was for extreme temperature areas. I'm sure the supplied condenser is fine for all but the Vegas/Phoenix area of the country. Another consideration is that they will probably still be in business in the future should you need parts.
As for RPM potential of the compressor, virtually any compressor has no problem at any RPM if it is OFF as it is nothing more than an idler pulley when it's not running. The Sanden compressors that are universally used by the OEM and in aftermarket kits will easily handle 6,000 RPM (compressor RPM, which is dependent on pulley ratios) when running. When OFF, the belt should disintegrate from excessive RPM before the compressor clutch bearing. But keep in mind that these are the lowest end, fixed displacement compressors made by the company. Not that there is anything at all wrong with them, as they are working flawlessly in literally hundreds of millions of vehicles, but even Sanden has piston compressors that will go to 9600 RPM, and scroll units that will go over 10,000+ RPM, while being variable displacement - Non of which should be of any importance to you unless you will be driving a convertible through Death Valley, in the middle of summer, and the ice melting in your drink is totally unacceptable!
I only ever deal with A/C modified/taken to the absurdity for other A/C psychos like myself, but for just staying cool, I'm sure you will be happy with the Classic Auto Air system and probably others.
No matter who you decide to go with, I would recommend the largest condenser they offer as there is no downside to the extra capacity (even if the condenser is larger than your radiator opening), but can be night and day difference in low speed/idle cooling. Also, insulation of the firewall from the cabin can be dramatic, as relying on a 1/32nd thick piece of metal to insulate you from the multi hundred degree temperatures on the other side just doesn't work no matter how good the A/C system is.
I hope any of this helps.
69_ply
Well-Known Member
Currently installing a Classic Auto Air partial kit(using compressor that came on the engine)in a 1969 Belvedere, not sure if it's the best kit, but not disappointed with it. The condenser mounting was less than spectacular, but everything else seems ok. Not sure if this really answered the question or not
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I'm currently installing a vintage air conditioner GenII in my 69 Charger although I'm not using a kit (it's a custom job). The one I'm using is all servo motor operated meaning no need for vacuum or cables "very nice". I just finished installing a vintage air kit in a 63 vette a couple weeks ago, it was a well put together kit and went in as good as you could expect (vettes are way to small). They also offer a mock up unit for 45.00, your money is refunded once you order the actual unit. Good luck
Q-ship I plan on insulating the fire wall to the hilt. Also I've heard that putting the drier up by the condensor instead of in the engine compartment is a big plus, is that true? I'd rather have the cable set up over servo's. I live in Iowa were it gets to the 90's sometimes but the humidity is also high. Thanks for your input.
q-ship
Well-Known Member
I have never heard of a dryer/receiver in the car body, and don't see how that could be of any benefit, or even possible, as it can't be between the expansion valve and evaporator else it would freeze up the accumulated moisture and not only be rendered useless, but would become a blockage to refrigerant expansion.
For years now all cars have had them mounted on the front of the radiator cowl, right next to the condenser) or as an attached part of the condenser), but anywhere that is not right on top of the exhaust is fine. They don't need to be cool, just somewhat operating temperature stable. The expansion valve does all the work, constantly adjusting itself.
As for humidity, just make sure the evaporator assembly can drain freely as it will pull out an astonishing amount of water in high humidity.
Virtually any kit that is offered will cool the output air as low as is physically possible while driving down the highway. So don't over think it. The only time that A/C customization comes into play is sometimes idle/low speed performance is not adequate in ultra high temperature environments (usually too small a condenser, or inadequate airflow through the condenser).
Any add on, or stock A/C unit can seem inadequate if it is fighting the heat input from the firewall and floor area above the exhaust pipes. This can manifest itself in a number of ways such as feeling that output airflow is too low for the cabin area, cool only just where the air hits you (beaming), or even getting cool, but not to a temperature that feels comfortable. -- Any of these can be mistaken for inadequate A/C system performance, but can usually be traced to very-very poor insulation.
Keep in mind that any cooling temperature below freezing through the evaporator will cause it to freeze up and slow/stop airflow (this is kept under control in any aftermarket or stock A/C), So the trick is to keep the engine/exhaust heat outside the cabin, and keep the (cool) inside the vent ducts from the evaporator to the point it is blown into the cabin (insulate, insulate, insulate).
For years now all cars have had them mounted on the front of the radiator cowl, right next to the condenser) or as an attached part of the condenser), but anywhere that is not right on top of the exhaust is fine. They don't need to be cool, just somewhat operating temperature stable. The expansion valve does all the work, constantly adjusting itself.
As for humidity, just make sure the evaporator assembly can drain freely as it will pull out an astonishing amount of water in high humidity.
Virtually any kit that is offered will cool the output air as low as is physically possible while driving down the highway. So don't over think it. The only time that A/C customization comes into play is sometimes idle/low speed performance is not adequate in ultra high temperature environments (usually too small a condenser, or inadequate airflow through the condenser).
Any add on, or stock A/C unit can seem inadequate if it is fighting the heat input from the firewall and floor area above the exhaust pipes. This can manifest itself in a number of ways such as feeling that output airflow is too low for the cabin area, cool only just where the air hits you (beaming), or even getting cool, but not to a temperature that feels comfortable. -- Any of these can be mistaken for inadequate A/C system performance, but can usually be traced to very-very poor insulation.
Keep in mind that any cooling temperature below freezing through the evaporator will cause it to freeze up and slow/stop airflow (this is kept under control in any aftermarket or stock A/C), So the trick is to keep the engine/exhaust heat outside the cabin, and keep the (cool) inside the vent ducts from the evaporator to the point it is blown into the cabin (insulate, insulate, insulate).
themechanic
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I've got Classic Auto Air in my 1969 Coronet R/T. Uses stock heater controls and the stock vents. Works.
Here's another vendor http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/
Their site is down this evening (4-15-13). May be due to their relocating? I bought some vents from them to replace my center vents.
Here's another vendor http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/
Their site is down this evening (4-15-13). May be due to their relocating? I bought some vents from them to replace my center vents.
PEIwoman
Member
I took the factory A/C out of my GTX last year.
The motor looks much prettier now.
Was that a mistake to take it out?
The motor looks much prettier now.
Was that a mistake to take it out?
All depends on what you want. If a nice looking engine compartment is high on your list, then do it. I would be interested in the dash vents if they are for sale!
themechanic
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You said you have a non AC car. You will need a AC dash frame and lower dash pad for the factory vents.
earlyrides
Well-Known Member
I have installed both the Classic auto air kit in my 68 wagon and a Vintage air kit in my 70 Runner.
I was very disappointed with the performance of the Classic auto air unit. The defrost / floor door controller has a micro switch that failed and it didnt blow cold air after the first 2 months. 3 different A/C shops could not get it to blow cold. Overall a total waste of money and effort.
The Vintage air unit had to be custom installed and did not use the factory controls but it works awesome. The shop I had do the install, http://theairshop.com/ would not install the classic auto air for any price. I am very happy with the Vintage air unit.
I was very disappointed with the performance of the Classic auto air unit. The defrost / floor door controller has a micro switch that failed and it didnt blow cold air after the first 2 months. 3 different A/C shops could not get it to blow cold. Overall a total waste of money and effort.
The Vintage air unit had to be custom installed and did not use the factory controls but it works awesome. The shop I had do the install, http://theairshop.com/ would not install the classic auto air for any price. I am very happy with the Vintage air unit.
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I went with Bouchilluion Performance (BPE) on my 70 Superbee
moparcanuck
Deceased, But not forgotton
The Vintage Air site does not list anything for Mopars except 70-74 Cudas and Challengers. :shruggy:
Classic Auto Air in the 69 Coronet R/T for about 8 years. Ice cold. Never a hiccup. That said, the Vintage setup in my friend John's 70 'Cuda seems to have better distribution.
Thanks for all the input guys! I was wanting to stay away from servos for the very reason you had earlyrides.
themechanic, I have the dash out and could easily cut in the vents and have the dash pad cut for it.
themechanic, I have the dash out and could easily cut in the vents and have the dash pad cut for it.
How do you like the Bouchillon Performance A/C? I've bought all my pulleys from them and was planning on getting their low mounted A/C compressor when I do A/C in my '68 Satellite. Trying to decide between Bouchillon and Vintage Air.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
Will the vintage air Gen IV-Magnum fit in a '69 B-Body? Been considering this for the Coronet. Looks like you have to piece together a custom setup as they don't offer a kit for the B-Body cars?
Curtis
Member
I would like to install an after market AC system in my restored 64 Sport Fury. Its a 383 car with a center console. As I look under the dash I see its very crowded, and there's is little or no room for the evaporator. I wonder if its even possible to put one in this car without tearing the heater assembly apart, etc. Do you know, has anyone done this? Where can I look? Thank You, Curt
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