rmchrgr
Well-Known Member
No. It's actually a 'welded splice'. Way different than a solder joint on a single wire and requires specialized equipment.
These are examples of welded splices.
Best possible wiring harness to choose from?
- Thread starter BoldAxis96
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These are examples of welded splices.
Exactly. And they rarely fail. It's always something else
M&H all the way all day every day. Pay once, cry once. It's like brand new factory. No installation headaches. Works great if you do the ammeter to voltmeter conversion as per MadElectrical instructions.
matthon
Well-Known Member
That's it, I forget what it was called exactly.
I've had mine apart on a few vehicles, they didn't look like that, looked crimped and soldered with a big glob.
Mopar Hunter
Well-Known Member
Sadly, there is no more sales on M&H wiring harnesses, they’re discount exempt.
Mopar Hunter
Well-Known Member
American Autowire is what I’m going with, in case I want to do any upgrades later.
Summit Racing has them with a discount if it’s over $999, you’ll save $120 off using code SPRINGP.
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That’s an understatement…..
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
But soldering wire works… just knowing the limits!
For just splicing couple of wires replacing a wire damaged section, adding shrinking tube and taping it along with a full harness section soldering wires is quite enough. Where soldering wires is not adviced is at terminals ends (even still I do it, but at the very end of the crimp) or big chunk of wires splice (or heavy gauge wires)
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SeabeckRedneck
Well-Known Member
99% of the time I try to order from YO, the items are discount exempt and the shipping costs are crazy high. So I shop elsewhere. Like you, I think I'll be going with American Autowire.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
Hence why YO has loosen market and nobody (on Mopar boards at least) mention them anymore. They were high demanded on market when F&F saga began thanks to the advertisings there… but when ppl took care about their handling rates everybody began to avoid them as far was posible.
Shipping also added more price to their S&H rates because used HUGE boxes when it was not needed really. Couple of times I paid a huge box for a small content. So I got also AIR from the YO warehouse I guess. Must be expensive to breath there!!! (Discount exempt)
Rebelrouser
Well-Known Member
All the painless systems I have seen are generic and have wires for many things that a muscle car does not have. Most of the plug-ins are GM style, the fuse box looks like a early 70's GM box. And most do not have a bulkhead connector. At least that was how the four that I installed were, that people brought me to use.
matthon
Well-Known Member
I replaced the factory fuse box on my a-body with a Painless 7 circuit setup.
Kept everything factory, wiring was fairly new and I had replaced some stuff already, charge wires, headlights, etc.
Just powered everything from the Painless fusebox, same place as the stock fusebox.
7 circuits covered everything I needed, plus I powered items that weren't fused, like the light switch.
Kept everything factory, wiring was fairly new and I had replaced some stuff already, charge wires, headlights, etc.
Just powered everything from the Painless fusebox, same place as the stock fusebox.
7 circuits covered everything I needed, plus I powered items that weren't fused, like the light switch.
rmchrgr
Well-Known Member
American Autowire is essentially the same thing so I still don't get how Painless is somehow 'worse' than any other brand. They all have pros and cons and you're going to fight with any of them. I'm not defending any one in particular but it would be helpful to know why something sucks rather than just giving some blanket statement.
AAW is also GM based so that's the same as Painless. They also give you way more extras than needed, I removed a ton of stuff. Thier A body kit covers all years which means both dash and column ignition switches are integrated into the same harness. If you have one or the other you're stuck with a bunch of uneeded wire either way. If you're not inclined to de-pin it and remove and re-connet some wires then you end up with uneeded clutter and extra weight. That drove me absolutey nuts.
And yes, AAW provides a bulkhead but the GM-based one they supply sucks because it requires drilling extra holes in the firewall so it can be bolted to the sheet metal through a frame behind the hole. Unless you have the entire car apart with the engine, column, dash and front window out, that particular job is difficult at best if not downright impossible. It might be different on other cars but that was an absolute nightmare on my '68 Coronet.
And even if you accomplish drilling the holes in the exact right loctions using their paper template, the connector still doesn't fit without trimming the original hole. What that does is every time you tighten the center bolt down it cocks the whole thing and pulls it to one side creating a gap and strain on the wire. I was so annoyed by that bulkhead that I de-pinned it and went back to the problematic OE one. Trust me, a bulkhead is not always the answer.
On the other hand, unless you're doing a 100% stock restoration and want everything factory original for the year and make, I see no reason to keep stuff like the ballast resistor, welded splice and ammeter wiring, the crappy OE bulkhead or the ancient fuse box. I get rid of all that anyway so I'm glad not to have to deal with it.
Like everything else, Mopar buyers make up a small fraction of total sales so there's no reason for aftermarket wiring companies to spend time and effort on developing a "real" Chrysler harness. There are in fact some unique quirks to our wiring that don't make sense to reproduce so it's easier and cheaper to just adapt a generic design to our cars.
On my Challenger project, I orderded a baisc street rod kit and modified it to how I wanted it. Way cheaper, easier to deal with and a cleaner result. I get that not everyone is going to do that but after doing two other cars I won't do it any other way.
radical rob
Well-Known Member
I have used painless on one project and haywire on. 2 others. On the subject of terminals I had heard and I may be wrong that Chrysler did not give permission to repop the connectors which Could be one reason all the connectors are gm. If you are using the switches etc in the kit it goes together easier. Otherwise you will spend some some time poring over the instructions figuring out how use their setup and the original switches.
matthon
Well-Known Member
Just for clarity, I got the Power Plus 13, which was $299 a few years ago.
I also got the alternator kit separately.
There is no bulkhead, I eliminated the factory bulkhead hole, and self tapped the fusebox to the firewall, with some sealer around the screws.
GM based, but it only came with a light switch, which fit in my dash.
Nice kit imo.
I also got the alternator kit separately.
There is no bulkhead, I eliminated the factory bulkhead hole, and self tapped the fusebox to the firewall, with some sealer around the screws.
GM based, but it only came with a light switch, which fit in my dash.
Nice kit imo.
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