Blast Cabinet (upgrades and woes)

[BDL]

Several years ago, I acquired a blast cabinet from a certain "import tool company" that is known for inexpensive tools. Recently, I learned on another thread here (http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?63721-68-Charger-build/page3) about some good upgrades for the cabinet. One being a better light setup, another being a far better gun setup, etc.



1. Lighting:

Pick up a pair of shop lights or even an outdoor light that happens to be on clearance. Cut holes in the cabinet and mount the housings directly to the outside of the cabinet. This will provide better lighting while not taking up valuable space inside the blasting cabinet.

(I hope that black68 does not mind I stole his pictures!!)
View attachment 176234

2. Gun:

Purchase a "USA Cabinet Gun & Pickup Tube Upgrade Kit." Here's the writeup from Skat:
"This is a complete made in USA Cabinet Gun Kit made to replace the operating system of most imported sandblasting cabinets on legs. It gives you the benefit of USA blasting technology at an economical price. It also provides continual and immediate availability of nozzles and wear items as needed. Includes clear instructions and installs in minutes with simple hand tools. In addition, our complete catalog is included for future availability of parts and nozzles."
http://www.tptools.com/USA-Cabinet-Gun-and-Pickup-Tube-Upgrade-Kit,2320.html?b=d*8026



3. Water Filtration:

One of the biggest causes of sand clogging up the gun is water. Get rid of the water and life will be better. So... Add a large water filter as close to the cabinet as you can get.

View attachment 176233



This leads me to questions about the window you look through to see the piece you are blasting...

I ran out of the tear-off sheets that go on the inside of the plexy-glass to protect it from blasting. Has anyone found a source for tear-off sheets? Maybe there is a better way to deal with the issue entirely? What have you done?

...Wait, wait a minute... I found a source for tear-off sheets (or "inner lens protectors" as this site calls them). Just measure your plexy size and pick up the size/quantity you desire:
http://www.tptools.com/Cabinet-Inner-Lens-Protectors.html

Still, is there another site or method of dealing with this issue? Would real glass perform any better than plexy?


ALSO: What else have you done to upgrade your cabinet?


(Thank you to black68 and hunt2elk for input from the other thread)

 

[hunt2elk]

Hey good deal you found some inner plastic sheets. Let me know if you would be interested in splitting a bulk order. The price/sheet drops 1/3 if a guy buys at least 25.

 

[coronet340]

I bought that cabinet for a job I had once. For the life of me I couldn't get it grounded enough to keep from shocking me constantly.
But I did run a bleed off line to an exhaust fan, I would kick the fan on when blasting and it helped keep the dust from building up so fast.

 

[hunt2elk]

I hooked up a 4" inline fan and exhausted it outside. This has worked out very well for me.

 

[BDL]

I like that idea!!

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

A few things I do to make blasting a little better:
When the kids were around I got them to do it! Now they are all grown and moved out.
To reduce the shocking and funk in the gloves I use a cornstarch based baby powder. Helps a lot.
I use the glass protectors but I also mounted a section of heavy duty screen door screen across the inside of the glass about 1/2 or so from the glass. That really helped to reduce the blast media from hitting the glass.
I purchased a cheap shop vacuum and routed the exhaust out through the garage wall. This got rid of the bag filter and cleaned up the dust that was always around when ever I blasted. Those bags just seem to always leak.
Get a good air water filter regulator. Its nice to be able to reduce pressure sometimes.
Happy blasting
Wayne

 

[Dako]

I have been using the wife's plastic wrap (Saran wrap, or similar) in place of the plastic sheets...the heavier stuff is easier to handle. Just get a piece big enough to cover what you want, tape it to the glass using painters tape and go to town! WHen you are having troble seeing, change out the plastic. W-A-Y cheeper than the sheets.

 

[moparbob71.2]

I just replaced my glass for the 1st time and it's literally night and day. I got my stuff from Tipco, got the tear off sheets too.
You guys need to be careful with inhaling any of the dust. Causes Silicosis or something, bad for the lungs. My seals were bad and didnt notice till one day I didnt use the vacuum. Looked like the thing was on fire. Got all new gaskets from Tipco too. I can't wait to use it and actually see what I'm blasting.

 

[Donny]

It's a nasty and dirty business folks.

 

[CudaChick1968]

It's a nasty and dirty business folks.

Indeed it is Donny! It's a dirty job but somebody's gotta do it. And you do it very well ....

 

[Donny]

ink banana:

 

[RS23VOA]

I bought one of those cabinets years ago. I siliconed the panels before i put in together. On the inside where the vent hole is, i mounted a shop vac air filter. On the outside i hook my craftsman shop vac to it to get rid of the dust. Most of the glass stays inside the cabinet except for the very fine particles that get through the filter. It works pretty good. Tractor supply has replacement gloves that are bigger and more flexible than the originals. Pretty cheap too. I hook the cabinet to a ground rod in the shop to keep it from shocking me.

 

[paris401]

when I was buying, I checked the tp tools cabinets... a bit shoddy...went with a 48'' trinco... have used it about 1 dozen times over the years... and now its for sale...

 

[northerndave]

Pressure or siphon?

How much you asking?

 

[paris401]

Pressure or siphon?

How much you asking?

not sure if its pressure/siphon.. asking $1000 , including 2 air dryers+ about a dozen glass protectors. see u in minn, im in ny... long way away... weighs 380lbs...
here is desc from trinco site

MASTER MODEL 48 CABINET


DEPTH: 24”
WIDTH: 48”
HEIGHT: 23”


DEPTH: 25”
WIDTH: 52”
HEIGHT: 64’
DOOR OPENINGS: THREE (3)
FRONT OPENING LID-TYPE—48”x 13”
DOOR ON EACH SIDE
17”x 16”

SHIPPING WEIGHT: 380 LBS.