Brake fluid doesn't come out

[Jimclo2002]

Installed new calipers installed
Installed new master cylinder

Try to gravity bleed right caliper. No fluid comes out
Then removed right right rubber hose that's between the metal brake line and caliper and installed a clear hose on the metal brake line
I try to suck the clear hose trying to drawl fluid out by not able to draw any break fluid out.
All other bleeding screws were closed and the master cylinder was filling to the top

Bad proportion valve? Connections to the portion valve?

Any guidance would be a help

 

[hunt2elk]

Did you bench bleed the master?

 

[YY1]

I've never had any luck trying to gravity bleed, or vacuum bleed for that matter.

Does fluid come out when you step on the pedal?

Agree with bench bleed.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

If you have a power booster, the pushrod adjustment could be too long.

 

[1STMP]

I assume you're converting rear drums
to disc.
Your master cylinder my be transfering
fluid between the front and rear
reservoirs due to higher pressure
needed for the discs. The o-ring seal
on the master cylinder piston may be
worn. Hook all brake lines up, pop
the cap on the master. Have a helper
push the brake pedal a few times,
check for any motion of the fluid.
There shouldn't be any noticeable
fluid movement.
If no noticeable fluid movement, I
agree the master cylinder needs to be
bled.

 

[Don Frelier]

I would disconnect the line at the proportioning valve and see if you can blow air through it.

 

[Jimclo2002]

I'll try the disconnecting the line at the proportion valve and make sure that there are no obstruction

Also the second master cylinder was just installed. I bench bleed the master cylinder and exercised close to 30 times to make that there was no air in the master cylinder

 

[Big mark]

Before you put on the new master cylinder did you bench bleed it and under my experience the best way to get all the air out of your brake system it to power bleed the system. Starting from the furthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder and bleeding on an x pattern.

 

[Krooser]

You have a bad hose...they deteriorate from the inside.

 

[YY1]

That might explain ONE front side or the rear.

 

[Krooser]

That might explain ONE front side or the rear.

May explain that all the hoses are bad.

I have bought and sold nearly 100 old cars over the last 50 years. I discovered, after many hours of screwing around with old rubber lines, that they are nothing but trouble.

I had one on a '52 Mercury that would let fluid flow then stop fluid flow. Had an occasional brake lockup issue.

One hose replacement fixed it.

Had a '55 F100 that had zero brake on the rear...The hose deteriorated and the debris plugged the brass t fitting.

I have new brake hoses on the shelf for my '65 Coronet . I have not even tried to bleed the brakes without replacing those hoses...$35.00 well spent.

 

[YY1]

Pretty easy to test.

Remove hose.

Try to blow through.

 

[Jimclo2002]

All metal brake lines and rubber brake are brand new
I ended up replacing both front calipers and the master cylinder. (the first set calipers and master cylinder were new). But I replaced them both.
I did bench bleed the master cylinder very well and installed it and two new calipers.

When trying to bleed the brakes I was not getting brake fluid at the passenger side caliper when bleeding the brakes.

I removed the rubber brake line and at the end of the metal brake attached a clear rubber tube and try to suck the fluid through. But nothing came out.

So thinking possible of a kinked metal line.
So
I removed the passenger side metal brake line at the proportioning valve. I blew through the metal line and was clear

So Im in the process of replacing the proportioning valve

That's is where I'm at now

 

[1STMP]

When bleeding the front calipers the
bleeder screw needs to be at the top
of the caliper. It may be necessary
to take the caliper off the mounting
bracket and rotate it until the bleeder
is at the top. If your brake hose isn't
long enough to allow for enough
rotation, you can substitute a piece
of wood wide enough for the piston
diameter(s) and the same thickness
as the rotor. (what I did with mine).