Brake pedal play

dickdale

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I’ve converted my manual brake 70’s Satellite to Power brakes using a Wilwood master brake cylinder (7/8” bore size), Bendix style booster with linkage and stock manual pedal.

The brakes have been tested and they work excellent.

The only thing is that the first 1/4 of an inch the pedal doesn’t come back at the start position. The car doesn’t brake when not pressing the brake but the pedal wouldn’t come all the way up.

How can this be solved?

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RemCharger

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Not sure on a 70 with the bendix.. but I would wonder about using the manual pedal with PB..
The hole should be in a different spot, definitely could lead to what you're experiencing
 

steve340

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I believe the power brake cars had a lower pedal height. I am sure I read or saw a diagram someplace.
My GTX was a factory power disc brake car and the pedal was scarily low. I always felt like the pedal was going to go to the floor before I could stop the car.
Is that what you mean?
 

Gus chiggins

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I believe the power brake cars had a lower pedal height. I am sure I read or saw a diagram someplace.
My GTX was a factory power disc brake car and the pedal was scarily low. I always felt like the pedal was going to go to the floor before I could stop the car.
Is that what you mean?
Brake pedal is lower, i swapped to PB's, and had to change the position of the brake light switch bracket ( PITA)
 

Ron H

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Yeah had a series of hassles with my brake conversion. One thing to verify adding a booster, is the gap btw the booster rod to MC piston. Tolerances vary btw cars; my gap tolerance was around 10 thou. Another issue is making sure there's a little free play at the pedal home position, not locked up or binding against the BL switch. This can cause pre-loading the booster resulting in pedal sink.
 
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