Brake pedal too low after manual drum to power disc conversion

[chrger1967]

Hi guys. I’m wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Just did a Pirate Jack 4-wheel power disc conversion on my ‘66 Belvedere. Installed the booster and brake pedal linkage and the brake pedal is too low and doesn’t engage with brake light switch. My buddy thinks we need to cut and extend the brake pedal connecting rod, but it doesn’t make sense to me that the parts in the kit wouldn’t be the correct length. Here’s a picture…

Thanks for any ideas!
GregView attachment 1744707

I'm having the same issue. I'm trying to find longer brake light switches. I have on coming today and it says its 4". I will let you know if it works. Also, the kit that was put into my car had a flat arm the connected the booster to the brake pedal arm, how did that linkage work out for you? I was thinking of getting what you have.

 

[chrger1967]

Odd, I just did a power drum to power disc conversion on a 66 Coronet and had no problems with the switch hitting the linkage

The prior owner of my 67 Charger put in a 4-wheel disc kit, the damn pedal was so high I thought the damn thing would hit my knees. I pieced together an adjustable rod and now Im having the same issue with the brake light switch. I'm trying to find one that's about 3 1/4-3 1/2' long. It isn't easy.

 

[chrger1967]

There’s a brake pedal ratio factor for manual and power brakes, in case you may not have checked this. On my ride, there are two holes in the pedal arm, upper and lower holes for manual or power brake linkage connection. Upper is for manual, lower for power brakes. There is a lot of info on the web about this. With my ‘kit’ it came with a crappy eye-bolt so a friend machined a new one with more adjustment and surface area to contact the brake light switch, similar to what a member posted. I should have re-thunk before getting the kit I bought creating extra hassles, as it ended up, I made the manual brake ratio work with the power brakes getting the pedal height where I wanted it.

I'm trying to figure that out as well. The kit was put in years ago by the prior owner and was never driven to test it. Now I'm trying to figure out the puzzle of what the hell this guy did. It had the arm from the booster to the brake pedal, but it was way too long, so I had to piece together an adjustable rod. Still working on make that work.

 

[chrger1967]

Hi guys. I’m wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Just did a Pirate Jack 4-wheel power disc conversion on my ‘66 Belvedere. Installed the booster and brake pedal linkage and the brake pedal is too low and doesn’t engage with brake light switch. My buddy thinks we need to cut and extend the brake pedal connecting rod, but it doesn’t make sense to me that the parts in the kit wouldn’t be the correct length. Here’s a picture…

Thanks for any ideas!
GregView attachment 1744707

Thanks for the replies everyone. I would have thought that it should be a plug ‘n’ play part if it’s a replica of OEM. But maybe there are differences in either the booster rod or the manual brake pedal set up. Or maybe some cars are just different? It’s also hard to believe there’s not an adjustable part available. Looks like it’s gonna be a cut and weld project! Will post some pics when I’m done.

Thanks again!
Greg

I just solved the problem for me with this brake light switch. Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products SLS159T Stoplight Switch : Automotive. It does not come with nuts and you need to use the leads closer to the switch. One terminal turns the lights on by pushing and the other when the button is released. I'm not sure if this link works, if not just look for in on Amazon.