Break-In Oil Additives

[khryslerkid]

If I'm useing a break-in oil for the first start up, do I need to use an additive too? (Hydraulic flat tappet build). Would that be overkill?

Also how long do you leave the break-in oil in the engine? I've heard some say just for the 20min. cam break-in.

I'm going with a semi synthetic oil after break-in and will be useing the additive then with each oil change.

 

[mmissile]

My race engines go from the shop to the dyno, are warmed-up, checked for leaks and correct pressures/etc.....then tugged hard as hell. We check the oil and filter for debris, then it goes racing. we don't do anything special for a break-in....just heavier oil after the dyno. I use Brad Penn, as well.

 

[khryslerkid]

else...

 

[383MovingViolation]

BRAD PENN.......YES

 

[SublimeSixpack]

FWIW I use Joe Gibbs "Driven" BR break in oil. No additional additives just the oil. I leave it in for 1000 miles then change to Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil (Synthetic).
Sometimes I'll change the filter on a new engine at 200 miles and top off the crankcase as needed. I then open the filter just to see how it looks. But like I already said I leave the Break in oil in for 1000 miles before draining it.

 

[moparedtn]

FWIW I use Joe Gibbs "Driven" BR break in oil. No additional additives just the oil. I leave it in for 1000 miles then change to Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil (Synthetic).
Sometimes I'll change the filter on a new engine at 200 miles and top off the crankcase as needed. I then open the filter just to see how it looks. But like I already said I leave the Break in oil in for 1000 miles before draining it.

Good call on the DRIVEN oil; I've learned the hard way that we MUST have the proper Zinc/ZDDP package in our oil if we're going to run flat tappet cams.
There are VERY few synthetic oils that have said additive packages in them, so we have to be careful.
When I swapped out the purpleshaft cam in my 440 that wiped two lobes within a couple hundred miles on full synthetic oil, I decided it was time to educate myself on such matters.
When the new Comp Cams went in, so did the Driven oil and the Wix filter, which is all I'll ever use in my GTX from now on.
Lesson learned.

I've used Mobil1 synthetic since the mid-80's on all my "modern" vehicles with incredibly good results (Mr. Shelby taught me that lesson with a little turbo Dodge critter back then), but we're typically talking roller hydraulic cams in those.

The feds pretty much marched zinc out of our oils as a result of it purportedly being "catalyst unfriendly" several years ago - another case of Big Brother screwing up a good thing.
There is a wealth of information on the subject of getting a flat tappet camshaft to live at Driven's website:
www.drivenracingoil.com

 

[khryslerkid]

Here's a little tidbit on priming the engine.

I haven't seen, anywhere, on how the cam "clocks" with the crank in order to line up the oiling holes to the heads. So as I was turning the crank, and spinning the pump, I noted where, on the dampner, I got oil to the rockers. I installed this cam "straight up". If the cam was advanced, I'm sure you would have to do the math and add or subtract those degrees. (440 RB)

Top Dead Center = #1 cylinder = Right Bank

Rotate CW to 270° = #8 cylinder = Left Bank

Having to do this by yourself isn't easy so I hope this helps.

 

[khryslerkid]

TTT

 

[383man]

I use the Valvoline VR1 racing oil and broke in my eng on it with a bottle of the Comp ZINC additive. And thats what I do at each oil change is use the Valvoline VR1 racing oil and a bottle of additive. Only now I am using the Risoline ZINC additive with each oil change. Dwayne Porter recommended I do that as he is the one I got my custom cam from. Ron