Break In Oil! Which one to use for my 440?

[Isaiah Estrada]

Nearing the installation and initial start of my 1968 440. Aside from having needed to be bored 30 over, it is all stock. Stock spec cam, lifters etc. etc. There is a LOT of info on the web about break in oils and whatnot, but I figured I should ask the pros here on what they think! Like I said, it's basically a stock spec, Non HP 440. It belongs to a large C Barge that will be a cool, lowered cruiser in the end!

Also, any advice for oil to run AFTER the break in? If I remember correctly, the FSM calls for 10W30. Would I have issue running any modern equivalent? Also any recommendations for ZDDP additive would be real helpful. I'm very eager to see the first start of this motor in over 40 years. To put it in perspective, it's been dormant for double my life (I'm 21, motor hasn't ran since 1980)

 

[Photon440]

 

[Jerry Hall]

You ask 50 people and very few will be the same.
I will be breaking in my 383 all stock refresh soon. I use Valvoline VR1 oil in all my engines. I do the break-in with it, and that's what is run in it. With today's cams, I make my initial start and run for 30 minutes at 2000 rpms. Otherwise nothing special.

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

View attachment 1337242
You ask 50 people and very few will be the same.
I will be breaking in my 383 all stock refresh soon. I use Valvoline VR1 oil in all my engines. I do the break-in with it, and that's what is run in it. With today's cams, I make my initial start and run for 30 minutes at 2000 rpms. Otherwise nothing special.

I figured as much, but am open to hearing what more experienced folks have to say Good to know, thanks!!

 

[69L48Z27]

I would use the Lucas BIO mentioned above. I run 15w-40 Rotella in everything that has stock valve springs. VR1 if it has heavier springs. All flat tappet of course.

21 and putting a 440 together, good for you!

 

[T2R9]

I used the Lucas above without any problems. VR1 after for the life of the engine.

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

I would use the Lucas BIO mentioned above. I run 15w-40 Rotella in everything that has stock valve springs. VR1 if it has heavier springs. All flat tappet of course.

21 and putting a 440 together, good for you!

Thanks! It's been an adventure. Not afraid to say I'm a total newb to all of this but this car DEFINITELY turned my life around. I was not even a Mopar guy when I got it. But dissecting this car, learning about Chrysler engineering and just how awesome all Mopars are - it turned me into a Mopar guy for life! So excited to hear this thing run. Will be the first 440 I even hear in real life I think...

I used the Lucas above without any problems. VR1 after for the life of the engine.

Thanks for the input! Been debating on VR1 or Penngrade. FWIW it seems like VR1 seems to be what most guys use.

 

[70chall440]

I use Joe Gibbs Racing break in oil, buy it by the case. Works good.

 

[snakeoil24]

Brad Penn snd add Lucas break in

 

[turbine68rt]

I gotta agree with what Jerry said about the VR-1.

 

[ykf7b0]

I use this for break in and general use for flat tappet cams and I really like Driven BR 40 for hydraulic roller set ups.

 

[Geoff 2]

Just use a break in or running in oil. Do not add any additives, the oil already has the correct ingredients for break in. Additives could be harmful, interfere with the package in the oil.
As for what to use afterwards, write some names on a piece of paper & put in a hat; have your girlfriend pull one out of the hat.....

 

[shepherm]

I'm not sure who has the best break-in oil.

However, after break-in I use Valvoline VR1 synthetic for just about everything now, except my newer vehicles where I use Mobil EP or ESP.

I use VR1 in my zero turn mower, golf cart, Charger and so on.... I wouldn't use any additive, I would use VR1 or other oil designed for flat tappet cams without the extra additives.

Robot or human?

 

[33 IMP]

I used a witches brew of what i had in the garage, and got away with it.... but I'm not a newb.
Best advice: buy a good proper breakin oil, and use good oil with zinc in it after. VR1 is a good choice.
(just in case you are curious: cam breakin lube on the cam and lifters, Lucas breakin oil additive, and a mix of diesel oil and very heavy, very old 【lots of zinc】pennzoil racing oil.) and i just had to fix seven "auto-correct" changes to this post.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I use Joe Gibbs Racing break in oil, buy it by the case. Works good.

I’ve used BR-30 successfully as well on several engines.

 

[ykf7b0]

What would you guys recommend for break-in oil and oil after break-in with a hydraulic roller cam engine? If I'm guilty of high jacking this thread just let me know.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

What would you guys recommend for break-in oil and oil after break-in with a hydraulic roller cam engine? If I'm guilty of high jacking this thread just let me know.

Only thing critical on a Hyd roller engine is using a lighter weight oil. Nothing heavier than 10w-40 for lifter performance. Start off with conventional and switch to syn later on.

 

[dvw]

Can't beat this deal. I used it in my racecar. Went just as quick as the 5w30 Synthetic that I swapped out after break-in.
DLucas Oil 10631 Lucas Engine Break-In Oil | Summit Racing
Doug

 

[Kern Dog]

I used the Lucas above without any problems. VR1 after for the life of the engine.

I used this oil and had good luck with it. Then, in a moment of dumb-shittery, I switched to a synthetic that had high detergent. Even though it had zinc, the detergent wipes the zinc off the parts as fast as it can put it on. I lost a cam and ended up pulling the engine to rebuild it.

 

[T2R9]

I used this oil and had good luck with it. Then, in a moment of dumb-shittery, I switched to a synthetic that had high detergent. Even though it had zinc, the detergent wipes the zinc off the parts as fast as it can put it on. I lost a cam and ended up pulling the engine to rebuild it.

I learned that same lesson on a 68 Coronet I had years ago when I switched to synthetic. These old engines like dino oil and zinc so that's all I will put in them now.