• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Bypassing the ignition?

SteveSS

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:21 AM
Joined
May 28, 2013
Messages
4,943
Reaction score
7,579
Location
Colorado Springs
Specifically on the 1970 Coronet 500 with a 383. We tried it last summer but one guy had to lie on the ground because he said the solenoid was on the starter then we touched the wire to the battery if I remember correctly. The guys on TV have a little handheld device to do this somehow. What are those things and are we doing it correctly? The ignition switch itself is all torn up. Should I just buy a new switch for the long run or can I hotwire it at the column?
 
I don't understand what you are attempting to do. The ignition switch provides power to the distributor, ballast and coil as well as the starter and solenoid. With no ignition switch, you can make the starter crank the engine over until the battery is dead but it won't start unless there is power to the ignition system.
 
you can attach one of these to the starter


Screenshot 2024-01-07 at 2.45.23 PM.png
 
Can also cross the terminals at the relay with a screwdriver but having a hand held remote starter switch with the clip on alligator clips is better. Then run a hot wire from the battery to the coil.....IF it's a point system.
 
mopar ignition.png
12 volts to the input side of the ballast resistor. The resistor reduces the power to the points or the ECU (if it's a electronic ignition) Neither Chrysler systems run on straight battery voltage without burning something out.
 
Feed the ballast with a jumper wire from batt up to the single blue wire on ballast, and as mentioned, jump out the big stud with sol terminal at starter relay to crank up the starter motor and you are done.

if ign system is healthy, the ballast bypass at brown wire side in ballast won’t be necessary for crank up and start the engine and still with a reduced voltage throught the ballast should be enough to start up the engine, just maybe a bit more starter motor turns.
 
Hot wire from the battery to the coil or the ballast resistor? Jump the two wires from the remote starter to the two contacts on the solenoid right
 
are you wanting to just turn it over as the ignition switch gives power to the coil but not the starter, or both? A remote starter switch will hang on to the starter, you can leave it there. I assume going 12v to the input side of the ballast puts 6 volts to the coil. 12 volts will have it start better, but will cook points eventually, as will leaving the coil powered by the hotwire.
 
The solenoid is on the starter, the relay is on the fenderwell. The best ting to do is fix what is broken so it doesn't accidentally start in gear.
 
Hot wire from the battery to the coil or the ballast resistor? Jump the two wires from the remote starter to the two contacts on the solenoid right

It’s easier to connect to the relay on the firewall, not the solenoid on the starter.
 
When I meant jump out the big stud and the sol terminal, I meant both on starter relay. Can be done with a wrench or screwdriver. Some sparks could come out, don’t be scared of that. Jump out terminals at the starter motor works too, but uncomfortable for sure.

you can also jump out the Ign terminal with the big stud. That will keep the NSS feature on the circuit, while jumping out with Sol terminal bypasses the NSS.

feed with 12 volts the ballast at the blue wire side should be enough.

sure to turn it off will need to disconnect the jumper wire up to the ballast.
 
Last edited:
It’s easier to connect to the relay on the firewall, not the solenoid on the starter.
Had a Scout that would act up. Changing the delco starter is a huge pain, but on the occasion it failed to start, I could reach through just above the frame and under the inner fender with an 11/16 open end and not even get dirty. I was always vigilant making sure it was in park lest I get run over while half in the well
 
You also can make the job at the ign switch plug down the column, but the harder part on this is the at dash harness plug is male ends so makes it harder to jump out.

since the ign switch is torn up and I guess you are thinking on replace it anyway, you can cut the harness coming out from column, peel blue, red and yellow wires, join together the blue and red, and get the yellow wire to make an instant contact with the other two to crank the engine.

on a more driveable way, you can tie blue and black (acc) with red, then yellow and brown (ballast bypass) together for the instant contact with red to crank up untill engine starts… this will allow to drive the car with the accesories feeded… important for the turning lights feature, back up lights etc… which are sourced from the ACC circuitry.

NOTE…

DON’T CUT THE SMALLER GAUGE WIRES (two reds and maybe an orange one if column shifter) coming out from column at ign switch harness. These are NOT part of the Ign switch asembly. ign switch just share the plug with some other functions. These need to be removed healthy with the existant terminals in one piece from the existant plug to be inserted into the new ign switch harness plug.

they are the ign key warning buzzer feature and the column shifter indicator light
 
Last edited:
look closely at the connection at the bottom of the column that connects to the main harness.
many, many times i have seen guys replace the ignition switch, when that connection was a little on the "melty" side.
this happens because over time from when new, that connection gets "kicked", or just plain vibrates a little loose, causing resistance in the connection itself, resulting in a large heat buildup, thus burning/melting the connector, terminals, wiring, or all of the above.
just my 60+ years of playing with this brand experience.
your mileage will vary.
:drinks:
 
Wondering if this is still something that's going on.....??
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top