Car Lift.. 2 Post/4 Post? Your Experience

[451Mopar]

It depends on what type of work you plan to do.

I plan to do front end and alignment work as well as brake work.

Any alignment rack I've ever worked on has either been a 4 post or a scissor.
As stated you can get movable jacks to get the wheels off the ramps.

If I were pulling engines from the bottom on the K frame or changing a lot of axles, a 2 post would probably be a better choice.

I have a BendPack HD-9 XW 4-post lift. I have turn tables to put under the front tires and 2"x6" board under the rear tires to level the car with the turn tables.
It is the accessories that really help. The jack crossmember (plate) is OK (they have a rolling crossmember jack too, but it is expensive), but many times I use the 1-Ton trans jack to get the tires off the lift ramps, or for the rear axle, just put the tall under hoist safety stands under the axle and lower the lift until the tires come off the lift runway to remove the tires and do brake work.
I have two of the 20-gallon drain tanks, one for oil and another for coolant. They get filled up faster than you would think.
The only issue with the BendPack lift is they use pneumatic (air) operated safety latches, so you need an air compressor to disengage the safety latches.
Many other lifts have a mechanical release, so no air source is needed. You can get BendPack lift with a 220 or 120 volt motor. I don't know what lift speed difference is between the two? I chose the 4-post 110 volt because it does not need the special foundation, and not even need to be anchored to the concrete. I bought the wheel kit, but only used it once or twice to reposition the lift, then you have to find a place to store the wheels, so not worth the $$$ unless you plan to move the lift around often.
The "XW" is the longer, wider, and taller version of the HD9 lift series. I can put my 2005 Ram 3500 quad cab 8' bed truck (single rear wheels) on the lift.
A dually rear wheel truck, the outer wheels would be too wide for where the safety latches are.

 

[YY1]

This is why I've been on the lookout for a used/take out 4 post alignment lift.

Built in turntables and one or two rolling jacks.

They do come up every now and then.

Some are made for a turntable option but don't have the tables.
I could live with that as I already have aftermarket turntables.

The jack(s) is the $$$.

 

[451Mopar]

Looked at the cost of those lifts, and they sure have gone up in price! I bought mine over 15-years ago.
Current price of that model: BenkPak HD-9 XW $5295 from ASEdeals.com

 

[Scott Engelhardt]

This is why I've been on the lookout for a used/take out 4 post alignment lift.

Built in turntables and one or two rolling jacks.

They do come up every now and then.

Some are made for a turntable option but don't have the tables.
I could live with that as I already have aftermarket turntables.

The jack(s) is the $$$.

I have a used 4 post alignment lift.

 

[PlymCrazy]

Just had to do this tonight. Going to try to get started on some insulation in the shop so this helped make some room on the side we’re starting on.
Even a 2-post can be helpful for some temporary storage…

 

[67Charger]

Here's what I put in for my future 2-post. 8" deep, 16'x4' with no.4 rebar on 12" centers

 

[YY1]

Are you sure that woman in a dress can hold up a 2 post lift?

 

[67Charger]

Are you sure that woman in a dress can hold up a 2 post lift?

She's only 10, so there's hope she'll grow some. She's short, so I had here doing the rebar tie wire. Saved my back some.

 

[RJRENTON]

The reference to 6 bag.....around here, it's called 6 sack cement and it's about how much cement is in the mix and has nothing to do with Sackcrete or Quikrete. 5 sack and even lower is usually what's poured around my parts for drive ways and garages.

According to the American Concrete Institute (ACI) book of standards and practices, concrete is rated on compressive strength. It can vary between lean fill mix at ~ 1000 psi cured compressive strength using fly ash instead of aggrete (typically used for fill as initial base) to higher strength cement matetial, like a 5 sack mix of Portland cement per cubic yard placed combined with the standard 3 parts aggregate (#2/0 + max 15% fines) plus 2 parts clean washed sand plus the numbers of bags of Portland cement to achieve the compressive strength desired which does not include the appropriately size rebar or size of the welded wire fabric mat, such as 6" x 6"x #6 WWF at 28 days cure time to develop the compressive strength. Pouring slump cylinders to insure the correct water addition is worthwhile to prove the mix. One could substitute a High Early Strength Portland cement in lieu of the standard Portland cement. High Early Strength Portland cement develops half it's ultimate compressive strength in three (3) days and full ultimate strength in 14 days. Different mixes depend on the time constraint, weather constraints and special considerations like an air entertaining chemical, acrylic ad mixes to promote adhesion, thermal blankets, heated forms, hot aggregate, sand AND NEVER CALCIUM CHLORIDE to prevent "freezing" as it reduces the cured ultimate strength by approximately half. Remember: concrete does not dry....it cures. Just my opinion of course as I use to be an associate member of ACI.....and used the standard and practices when pouring a substantial foundation at -20° F at a Chicago plant renovation......
BOB RENTON

 

[Cranky]

According to the American Concrete Institute (ACI) book of standards and practices, concrete is rated on compressive strength. It can vary between lean fill mix at ~ 1000 psi cured compressive strength using fly ash instead of aggrete (typically used for fill as initial base) to higher strength cement matetial, like a 5 sack mix of Portland cement per cubic yard placed combined with the standard 3 parts aggregate (#2/0 + max 15% fines) plus 2 parts clean washed sand plus the numbers of bags of Portland cement to achieve the compressive strength desired which does not include the appropriately size rebar or size of the welded wire fabric mat, such as 6" x 6"x #6 WWF at 28 days cure time to develop the compressive strength. Pouring slump cylinders to insure the correct water addition is worthwhile to prove the mix. One could substitute a High Early Strength Portland cement in lieu of the standard Portland cement. High Early Strength Portland cement develops half it's ultimate compressive strength in three (3) days and full ultimate strength in 14 days. Different mixes depend on the time constraint, weather constraints and special considerations like an air entertaining chemical, acrylic ad mixes to promote adhesion, thermal blankets, heated forms, hot aggregate, sand AND NEVER CALCIUM CHLORIDE to prevent "freezing" as it reduces the cured ultimate strength by approximately half. Remember: concrete does not dry....it cures. Just my opinion of course as I use to be an associate member of ACI.....and used the standard and practices when pouring a substantial foundation at -20° F at a Chicago plant renovation......
BOB RENTON

Whaaaat!!??

 

[RJRENTON]

Whaaaat!!??

An that's the information a person needs to know b4 proceeding .....the first pix in # 46, shows the rebar mat over a compacted base. Depending on local building requirement codes, point loading of the lift's vertical columns, (max total weight per column/number of columns + 25% safety factor) Sonotube cylinders to the local frost line may be required. Placing concrete is not a casual happening.....do it correctly.....for the intended use....according to applicable building and local codes ......others may disagree or have their own opinions .......
BOB RENTON

 

[Cranky]

An that's the information a person needs to know b4 proceeding .....the first pix in # 46, shows the rebar mat over a compacted base. Depending on local building requirement codes, point loading of the lift's vertical columns, (max total weight per column/number of columns + 25% safety factor) Sonotube cylinders to the local frost line may be required. Placing concrete is not a casual happening.....do it correctly.....for the intended use....according to applicable building and local codes ......others may disagree or have their own opinions .......
BOB RENTON

Oh I 'learnt' about concrete many moons ago.....!

 

[RJRENTON]

Oh I 'learnt' about concrete many moons ago.....!

No offense.....it just didn't sound like it.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Cranky]

No offense.....it just didn't sound like it.....
BOB RENTON

Didn't know this forum made sounds!

 

[70runner]

Just about done with hillside detached garage/workshop project. As others have said 2 post for working, 4 post for storage. My 2 post lift will be moved from attached garage to center bay of the new shop. Pad was 5" with 3500psi mix. In the lift area, a 4'x15' tray, 12" deep. Gradual slope from 12" to 5" to minimize cracking. Used Bendpak specs for rebar, one layer at 9" depth in tray area, below Hilti Hit-Z anchor rods at 8" depth. Other layer at 3" depth over entire pad, spaced to avoid fastener holes (hate drilling through rebar).