I have a question about the kickdown lever I came across while exploring shift point adj for 727 trans on the net. My car originally had a 2bbl carb and I changed over to 4bbl years ago. The shift points were never great but then I know they were set quick on factory specs. I adj the lever to longest setting doable that allowed a little delay between 1st and 2nd. Now after total engine rebld and more HP, the 2 to 3rd shift is also right quick; like no hold at all in 2nd. I read that the kickdown lever for a 2bbl was different than for a 4bbl...non-compatible? To my knowledge the 63 318 motor didn't have a 4bbl option. The 62's though I gather did. Does anyone know if the lever specs were different? If so this could have something to do with shifting. I know there's a ton of other issues with the governor, line pressure, spring spec's etc. etc. but just trying to take it a step at a time while seeking a better shift setup after the expensive rebuild. Thanks!
Carb Kickdown Linkage 63 318
- Thread starter Ron H
- Start date
miller
Well-Known Member
I can't positively tell you on that. Unfortunately, I've never seen one of the levers, with a part # on it. You might research a little on 727 levers, for your application, and at least come up with a measurement...hole to hole.
Also makes a difference, what year, what carb, and what type of kick-down linkage.
In a nutshell (as long as everything else on the trans is adjusted right), the resulting swing, of both the trans lever, and throttle arm pivot, should be pretty close the same. That's so the trans lever has it's complete swing, going from idle to WOT.
Also makes a difference, what year, what carb, and what type of kick-down linkage.
In a nutshell (as long as everything else on the trans is adjusted right), the resulting swing, of both the trans lever, and throttle arm pivot, should be pretty close the same. That's so the trans lever has it's complete swing, going from idle to WOT.
What carburetor and what manifold? The stock single rod kickdown works with the factory cast iron 4bbl manifold and Edelbrock carb ( with Eddy throttle adaptor). The rod gets moved over the next finger on the cable bracket.
I set mine with throttle completely closed and adjust rod to drop onto the pivot. Check at wot...trans lever should be about all the way back.
I set mine with throttle completely closed and adjust rod to drop onto the pivot. Check at wot...trans lever should be about all the way back.
Yatzee
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately the only way you can tell if the swing matches is to use a set of verniers on the tranny lever to see how far it travels from "rest" to fully back. You will also need to do this at the carb attachment point and compare the two values. ! 1/4 to 1 5/16 sounds about right but you can change the progression by moving the attachment point at the carb closer or further away from center of the throttle shaft. Both should be equal which will allow WOT.If your not holding second or can't get partial pedal "kickdown" you have too much slack in the linkage or to put it another way, the tranny lever isn't pushing back far enough. Try the extreme adjustments both ways and you'll see what I mean.
That's how I remember adjusting mine when I installed the 4bbl. It now has an Eddy carb on it with the rebuild. My old AFB off of a 64 426 has disappeared. Still the stock manifold I had on it. Car is at top shop getting a new one on it; I'll have to check the lever adj as I didn't do this after work was done. I notice your throttle cable is a nice straight shot; mine is bit angled upwards to carb linkage. Unrelated but seems not right. Thanks much Threewood and Miller!
Thanks much just saw your reply. I'll do the check!
miller
Well-Known Member
Just keep in mind, at WOT, kick-down linkage back, allow about 1/16" play, before it bottoms out. That's for no binding. The linkage is spring-loaded (inside the trans), and the first 1/3 travel is free play.
AMX364
Well-Known Member
When you change from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel setup, the linkage changes. The transmission linkage often needed up to a inch longer rod(at the carb), if using a standard Performer intake. If using a RPM intake the linkage may need to be longer, welding in some rod was the normal fix. After paying attention to the factory settings and trying to copy them the best you can. I liked putting the adjustment in the middle of its range, giving some wiggle room that way. The throttle cable normally will still work after checking for full throttle opening. If the motor is running right how could you tell if the throttle was only opening 90 percent. On the street you couldn't.
Similar threads
