changing liscense plate light bulb (?)

[JD Davis]

'71 super Bee, 383/4 sp; bought new but never had to change this bulb, appears you have to pull the damn bumper, am I missing something?

I'm also R&R'ing the heater core for the 1st time if anyone has done that before(?)

At the risk of overstaying my welcome, I have a Mopar Perf (I think) M-1 intake with a Holly 750 dbl pumper on top; I'd like to stay with the stock air cleaner housing, but it interfered with the carb at the rear so I installed a .5" spacer, solved that issue, but also wanted more capacity so I found a .5-.75" taller filter element, but it obviously raises the air cleaner lid up some more. With all that, the hood won't close. Anybody else retrofitted the stock housing back onto a beefed up engine or do I just say screw it??

 

[PurpleBeeper]

1. I sold my '71 Charger many years ago and never changed that bulb.... not sure, but I "think" there may be an easier way IF you can get the fasteners loose. Maybe PB Blaster, 1/4" drive & some swivels? Sorry, I'm not much help on that one.

2. I've done a heater core on my 70 RR and it is a pain, but do-able. You have to remove the heater box completely, then it's just a few screws & removing the hose clamps in the engine compartment. You might want to put some new seals along the edge of the heater box when you re-install it. I'm pretty sure you can buy reproductions (I just used think window sealing foam tape on mine). Oh yeah, "old school" radiator shops should be able to re-core the heater core or you can buy an aftermarket one (can't really see those when installed).

3. Hood clearance can be a pain. You have a few options.
a. stock/lower intake
b. put a "dent" in the air cleaner base for clearance and remove the spacer
c. Cut up the air cleaner base & graft in a piece of a drop-base air cleaner that clears the carb.
d. aftermarket drop base or Edelbrock "foam filter" type you can buy at most part stores or other low-profile air cleaner
e. you might consider finding/modifying a K&N-style air filter to fit your base & IF you modify it, maybe cut some extra "breather holes" in the base (if possible) outside of the filter.
f. put on a drop-base bottom & leave the stock top/lid on

I'm sure other guys have run into this and may have better suggestions.

 

[JD Davis]

1. I sold my '71 Charger many years ago and never changed that bulb.... not sure, but I "think" there may be an easier way IF you can get the fasteners loose. Maybe PB Blaster, 1/4" drive & some swivels? Sorry, I'm not much help on that one.

2. I've done a heater core on my 70 RR and it is a pain, but do-able. You have to remove the heater box completely, then it's just a few screws & removing the hose clamps in the engine compartment. You might want to put some new seals along the edge of the heater box when you re-install it. I'm pretty sure you can buy reproductions (I just used think window sealing foam tape on mine). Oh yeah, "old school" radiator shops should be able to re-core the heater core or you can buy an aftermarket one (can't really see those when installed).

3. Hood clearance can be a pain. You have a few options.
a. stock/lower intake
b. put a "dent" in the air cleaner base for clearance and remove the spacer
c. Cut up the air cleaner base & graft in a piece of a drop-base air cleaner that clears the carb.
d. aftermarket drop base or Edelbrock "foam filter" type you can buy at most part stores or other low-profile air cleaner
e. you might consider finding/modifying a K&N-style air filter to fit your base & IF you modify it, maybe cut some extra "breather holes" in the base (if possible) outside of the filter.
f. put on a drop-base bottom & leave the stock top/lid on

I'm sure other guys have run into this and may have better suggestions.

Thanks much for the note, I've a 1/4 drive and all the nick nacks, but whats a PB blaster? I'll figure out the heater core, I think lot's of stuff changed between '70 & '71, not big.
I'm just trying to keep the orange 383 mag top piece; when I saw what they get for that old filter housing, I decided I better not screw it up too much, but modifying the bottom is sure an option. I like the idea of punching a bunch of holes in the bottom.
Thx again,
JD

 

[dual fours]

PB blaster, very good stuff.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

youll find 1/4" hex screws holding the license plate light assembly just right above the license plate... remove and should be easy to get out the assembly from the license plate opening. It can be tricky but doable

 

[JD Davis]

youll find 1/4" hex screws holding the license plate light assembly just right above the license plate... remove and should be easy to get out the assembly from the license plate opening. It can be tricky but doable

I don't know why I didn't notice that before, thank you, appreciate it.

 

[JD Davis]

PB blaster, very good stuff.
View attachment 533042

got it, thanks. I'll look for it, I don't think I've seen it out here before.

 

[dual fours]

got it, thanks. I'll look for it, I don't think I've seen it out here before.

Look at NAPA's, Auto Zone's, Advanced Auto's or what ever you have out there, I bet even at Wal-mart's. Try the ACE Hardware Store at 16851 YOLO ave. Opens at 9am Sunday. (530)-seven-8-seven-3-eight-zero-0, I guess their still in Business.
I think I use more of BP then WD now a days.