Closing in on this problem ...hopefully!

[beanhead]

Ya...this is interesting...
https://youtu.be/ex4eB4mUuVM
goes with this previous threadhttp://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/is-this-normal.126570/

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

Sure this isn't just an issue with a crappy timing light? (seen it before).
If you suspect electronic ignition system issue, easy to swap in a points dizzy to prove it.

 

[coloradodave]

Hook the lead to a different cylinder to see if it's the light.

 

[beanhead]

Does it on a few cylinders, I wouldn't put anything past the crappy tools nowadays though...pulled one wire at a time and there was very slight change on some cylinders but man it acted real goofy when I would put them back(as in seeing 180 flash where the 10 should be, etc) that would stop a few seconds after each wire was back on though, returning to what you see in the video..getting a spare known good coil from a buddy to try next

 

[Ranger16]

Might try your buddies timing light as well just to rule it out.

 

[Shorthorse]

Is your car actually missing or is this just an erratic light? What is your ignition setup and what timing light are you using? I don't know the details but there is a compatibility issue with some aftermarket ignitions and certain types/styles of timing lights. I'm sure someone here will know the specifics.

 

[miller]

My last build ran like that, after I got it broke in.
Wound up being lousy plug wires, and 5 cracked plugs...all brand new!

 

[440+6]

My last build ran like that, after I got it broke in.
Wound up being lousy plug wires, and 5 cracked plugs...all brand new!

Someone probably dropped those plugs before you got them, a few years ago I picked up some plugs for the Suburban and the electrodes where smashed on a bunch of them, obviously I returned them and inspected all the new ones.

 

[miller]

Yup! Loads of fun, figuring out what the deal was, too.

 

[Ski 61701]

I too have been victimized by "bad" brand new parts. I had brand new plug wires quality name brand, and motor sounded meh. Checked resistance on a couple of them specifically #2 and #7 over 3k rest on $2 and pushing 7k resistance on #7. Swapped out new plug wires (after I checked resistance) and all was good. Any more you have to check all your parts before firing up. Ive just accespted the fact I have to do this, kinda sad but you have to otherwise youre chasing your tail trying to figure out what part (s) have failed later on. Hope you get it figured out

 

[beanhead]

Thanks for the replies, I have changed plugs/wires, cap was bad but a good one hasn't helped. As far as the engine missing, I believe it is.. this thing has an irregular shake to it that acts like a miss it seems to idle ok but I know it should be better..you can really feel it inside the car too. check the "is this normal" thread linked in post#1 I put a vid clip there. Swapping coils later and then will update thanks folks!

 

[oldbee]

per 'shorthorse'= what kind of ign. setup do u have now?

 

[beanhead]

per 'shorthorse'= what kind of ign. setup do u have now?

MP conversion kit (from 2008) orange ecu/generic accel superstock coil(getting 8.8v on + and 3.5v on - when running) using ballast resistor that came with kit(reads about 1.5ohms), had accel ceramic boot wires put on a different set to help troubleshoot...autolite 3924 swapped also. My light is a basic non-dialback (my damper is marked to 50 or 60 deg) if the motor didn't get to shakin' like it does I would chuck the light asap, but I don't think that's the problem

 

[miller]

Thanks for the replies, I have changed plugs/wires, cap was bad but a good one hasn't helped.

One thing you might keep in mind. It can take only one issue, to make an engine run like that. And several different things can be bad. That's all past something in the engine 'mechanically' wrong.
First is first...compression. Good, or bad, bad saying too low, or not the same.
Work, but, that's what it takes. Plugs, and wires good? As I mentioned on mine, had a handful of bad plugs, had to check each one, the hard way, with plug grounded so I could 'see' the spark. Plug wires? Figured that one out later, after continuously having to change fouled out plugs, every few 100 miles. Plug wires weren't cutting it, so replaced with stainless steel. But, that was using points.
Also look at the dizzy. If there's too much side play on the shaft, or something of the like, that plays hell with the timing...and how the motor runs. Everything you can think of needs to be checked, to make sure it's good. 'Something' is there. Just have to find it.

 

[beanhead]

One thing you might keep in mind. It can take only one issue, to make an engine run like that. And several different things can be bad. That's all past something in the engine 'mechanically' wrong.
First is first...compression. Good, or bad, bad saying too low, or not the same.
Work, but, that's what it takes. Plugs, and wires good? As I mentioned on mine, had a handful of bad plugs, had to check each one, the hard way, with plug grounded so I could 'see' the spark. Plug wires? Figured that one out later, after continuously having to change fouled out plugs, every few 100 miles. Plug wires weren't cutting it, so replaced with stainless steel. But, that was using points.
Also look at the dizzy. If there's too much side play on the shaft, or something of the like, that plays hell with the timing...and how the motor runs. Everything you can think of needs to be checked, to make sure it's good. 'Something' is there. Just have to find it.

Thanks yes the search continues!!

 

[Mike67]

Im sure youve done it but Ive caught my self a couple of times thinking I had it right, but ...reverify your firing order...probably the easiest thing to double check...good luck+