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Clutch adjusting rod curiosity?

moparedtn

I got your Staff Member riiiight heeeere...
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I've been experiencing some noise in recent drives in Fred emanating from the
clutch area, specifically when I had the clutch pedal depressed.
In or out of gear didn't change it.... and when I let the clutch out, after a second
or two the noise typically hushed.
The sound was vaguely familiar - my memory told me it was probably a "dry"
throwout bearing (or a cheap one).

So...a couple days ago, under the car I went (yes, I used friggin jack stands)...

This was the first time I'd been specifically under there to inspect the clutch area
(and what the guy I had install the 18 spline and new at the time Ram B&B 11" clutch
had done under there last fall).
I didn't like what I saw with the linkage to clutch adjustment rod assembly - there
were a couple small parts missing (the snap clip and plastic washer, for example) and the rubber isolator (which was new when given to the guy) was chewed pretty badly also...
and I didn't like the angle the clutch adjusting rod was hitting the linkage from the pedal.

Seemed like to me those two should be pretty much dead parallel with one another, right?
AK449.jpg

Well, since the previous owner did the cobbled up job of converting the car to a 4 speed,
I figured the linkage wasn't exactly right down there (the z-bar doesn't come across from the frame ball pivot to the pivot on the bellhousing exactly square, for example) and was
probably throwing the geometry of things off a bit anyways...

BUT to those of you who have factory 4 speeds, are your clutch adjustment rods bent at what looks like a pretty good angle like the one in the Brewer's pic above?

Fortunately, I had a spare snap clip and plastic washer, but they weren't going on with the
mismatched angles of the adjustment rod and the z-bar lever - so I did the kind of thing
I usually do, namely took the adjustment rod out and over to the bench vise, where I beat hell out of it until that angle at the open end was gone.

(Took some doing - that rascal is TOUGH!)
I also verified the throwout bearing was spinning freely (and it freewheels quite a bit
when spun!) - but unfortunately, I didn't see any zerk on it for lubing and didn't think
it prudent to just spray some stuff up in there, for obvious reasons.

When I reassembled things down below, I first checked the throwout bearing to make sure
the spring for it was holding it off the clutch fingers (it was, by a comfortable margin).
With the newly-beaten adjustment rod, things now lined up really nicely and I was able to
reassemble the whole mess easier - AND install the missing washer and clip, too.
Got the wife up in the car, working the clutch while I made adjustments so I could make
DOUBLE sure I didn't take things too far and got things set so the pedal was about
halfway on engagement, like I like it - and still not forcing the throwout bearing against
the clutch fingers below (visible air gap between them).

As you all know, a little bit of adjustment makes a BIG difference at the pedal - and with
the butcher job of converting the PO did, that's probably amplified on Fred.

The results were seen today on a drive - the driving part was nice, shifting easy.
However, with time the noise returned - push the clutch in at low/stopped speeds and
there it was. Nothing screeching or blood-curdling, but noticeable just the same.
If I popped it into neutral and let out the clutch, within a couple seconds, it hushed.

So the question is:
Do I just resolve myself to having a noisy throwout bearing here?

Like I said, there's worse things - and I AM happy with how the thing works, anyways.
Thanks!
 
To make your decision a little more complicated, changing the throwout bearing is an easy job. (Especially with your jack stands) The problem is, you may change the bearing and end up with another Chinese junk bearing.
Can you grease the bearing? That might help the noise a little.
 
Yes... that rod has a slight bend in it. Check the ball stud in the belhousing and your z bar. There are two different lengths.If you have the wrong length ball stud it will throw everything off including your adjustment on pedal. It will also be difficult adjusting for free play in pedal.
I've seen cars from factory that had bracket for z bar welded in wrong spot. And when I mean factory... it sure looked like it was welded from factory and no evidence of damage. That car still runs and drives with no problems after yrs of use.
A throw out bearing is pretty loud when it goes and its a dead give away. Sounds like your being thorough. Keep us updated
 
Also it might not be the bearing... recently I had same experience with this RR I finished. Same problem at low speed engaging and dis engaging the clutch. And at higher speed in fourth gear. Drove me nuts for two days. Found out it was a breather that fell off valve cover and landed in between header tube. Put it back on and noise went away. Keep looking it might be something so simple.
 
To make your decision a little more complicated, changing the throwout bearing is an easy job. (Especially with your jack stands) The problem is, you may change the bearing and end up with another Chinese junk bearing.
Can you grease the bearing? That might help the noise a little.
No, it's not "easy", requiring removal of the transmission and all that entails....
not something I want to tackle without a lift again, that's for sure.
Like I said in my post, there is no visible zerk on the throwout bearing and I didn't want to just
spray lube up in there, either.
 
Yes... that rod has a slight bend in it. Check the ball stud in the belhousing and your z bar. There are two different lengths.If you have the wrong length ball stud it will throw everything off including your adjustment on pedal. It will also be difficult adjusting for free play in pedal.
I've seen cars from factory that had bracket for z bar welded in wrong spot. And when I mean factory... it sure looked like it was welded from factory and no evidence of damage. That car still runs and drives with no problems after yrs of use.
A throw out bearing is pretty loud when it goes and its a dead give away. Sounds like your being thorough. Keep us updated
All the ball studs, z-bar, all that jazz I fetched new and assembled with guidance from FSM and
Dan Brewer himself, so I'm pretty comfortable with all that.
The z-bar actually traverses from frame to bellhousing at less than the optimal 90 degree angle...
so I reckon it's a bad job of where the PO welded on the ball stud mount on the frame.
Not a lot, but enough to be seen by the naked eye.
It's workable and things ARE better since I bent the adjusting rod straight....
thankfully, since the PO pretty much wrecked the frame area when he welded the ball stud mount on it.
 
Reminds me, though - out of curiosity, is the correctly installed "bent" adjusting rod
facing with the "convex" side mated to the z-bar arm - or facing AWAY from it?
 
Since this was a conversion, do you have the passenger side offset with the engine location? TTI has general specs in their header footnotes.

A worn, bent, or incorrect fork pivot can contribute to linkage alignment issues.
 
Since this was a conversion, do you have the passenger side offset with the engine location? TTI has general specs in their header footnotes.

A worn, bent, or incorrect fork pivot can contribute to linkage alignment issues.
I reckon the PO didn't do any of that. The mounts are all stock (including trans crossmember); to that I can attest.

Good point on the clutch fork, though. I have NEVER liked the way the factory pivot works on these; seems awfully flimsy and wonky to me. I mean come on...
 
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FSM shows it facing away from the torque shaft pin.
View attachment 1001339
Thanks. That is the orientation that made the most sense to me as well, even after I beat the thing dang near straight.
As a result, right now the whole operation, at least at the side of the bellhousing, is very linear, with all pedal input coming straight at the
pivot fork, which would make sense to this amateur.

I wonder why Ma decided to come at the thing at an angle to begin with, though?
Introducing angles in something that operates in a linear fashion just seems to me to be opening the door for all sorts of issues with variables on the assembly line, methinks?
 
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