Suggestions for stock clutch

[padam]

As mentioned in post 26, this is the clutch i was told thats in the car:
“It was a centerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch”—-USED (told very little use)
Additionally, the flywheel is brand new from 440 source…
It is my belief matching a new flywheel to a used clutch is a no-no. So id like to start over, but with an “easy on the leg” clutch

With a diaphragm clutch the pedal should be a little stiff at the top, then kind of collapse as it moves down so it should take very little effort to hold it down. Is that yours feels like?

 

[padam]

And the flywheel should be ground when the disc is replaced. A flywheel can be re- ground many times.

 

[koosh]

With a diaphragm clutch the pedal should be a little stiff at the top, then kind of collapse as it moves down so it should take very little effort to hold it down. Is that yours feels like?

I believe so, yes

 

[koosh]

And the flywheel should be ground when the disc is replaced. A flywheel can be re- ground many times.

I understand that… but in my case, seller installed a new flywheel with a used clutch

 

[Dennis H]

Found it….. no application for Mopar?

Got it. Works in my Tremec TKO 5 SST.

 

[padam]

Found it….. no application for Mopar?

That’s a McLeod clutch so maybe more info on their website.

Whatever clutch you look at you should find out the clamp load so you can compare it to the one you have. Otherwise you could end up with HIGHER pedal effort than you have now.

 

[padam]

I understand that… but in my case, seller installed a new flywheel with a used clutch

that’s a no-no, could contribute to the chatter problem but not pedal pressure.

And not to rag on 440 source because I’ve never seen one of their flywheels, even a new one should probably be ground. I’ve seen new McLeod flywheels that had a lathe finish. I wouldn’t install one like that.

I think if you have a centerforce in there and nothing is mechanically wrong with it or your linkage, you’re not going to find a clutch with less pedal effort.

You will have to talk seriously with the clutch companies AND look at customizing your linkage.

 

[koosh]

that’s a no-no, could contribute to the chatter problem but not pedal pressure.

And not to rag on 440 source because I’ve never seen one of their flywheels, even a new one should probably be ground. I’ve seen new McLeod flywheels that had a lathe finish. I wouldn’t install one like that.

I think if you have a centerforce in there and nothing is mechanically wrong with it or your linkage, you’re not going to find a clutch with less pedal effort.

You will have to talk seriously with the clutch companies AND look at customizing your linkage.

Appreciate all the info. Im convinced to start all over with new flywheel and clutch assembly. Just need an “easier “ pedal. No racing, no beating on it, judt cruisin

 

[toolmanmike]

Appreciate all the info. Im convinced to start all over with new flywheel and clutch assembly. Just need an “easier “ pedal. No racing, no beating on it, judt cruisin

You may want to contact Brewer with your dilemma. May be they have a easy on the knee clutch that can handle your combination. If not, a hydraulic clutch is the way to go. Or an automatic.

 

[RemCharger]

Might be a new untapped market on the horizon.. The New GrandpaClutch Kit

speaking for my future self, of course.

 

[Bird 426]

My Centerforce clutch chatters too. Resurfaced Centerforce flywheel, new dual friction disc and pressure plate. It doesn't bother me. Call and talk to Dan at Brewers. You don't happen to know if you have a scattershield? I too have hard to push in clutch pedal. Started when I installed the scattershield. Haven't really tried to figure it out, but I need to. It was smooth and easy with my stock bellhousing.