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Condensor or Coil?

So I'll go through what I checked later.

First pic is distributor in the 325.
The important question is should the points just be hanging out on the opposite side of where the condenser screws on with the coil wire?
My guess is no.

So I looked at a distributor I have off a 383, which has a plastic piece and the points screwed to the opposite side.

I'm going to switch the 325 points to the other side where they can be screwed down.

It appears the purpose of the plastic piece is to isolate the points from the distributor., but I can't swap in the other points.
When I look online for new points, nothing in stock anywhere, there is no plastic isolator, in the pics at least.

I looked for points for my 64 Fury and it shows one with the plastic piece, one without.
Seriously, they don't even give you it, I'd have to reuse the one I don't have?

I did not install the points, but I definitely should have caught this sooner.

View attachment 1417182

View attachment 1417183
. The top photo looks correct. Don't worry about the plastic piece. It's just a different design. The points should go over the locating pin and screwed tight to the beaker plate. I would put the stainless spring on the other side of the bracket so that the electrical connector and the spring make contact with each other and the condenser wire is in the middle there. Condenser? Where did it go? I think I said it before, you need to get quality parts from Halifaxhops and not at the parts store.
 
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Early pre 61. OK in the picture the poinst are right for that model, but that strap on them goes between the wire and the tab. That tab is isolated with Bakelite so no plastic insulator. You also need a condenser so it dies not burn the points up which looks like they might be hard to tell. . Newer 383 is a totally different rotation and design.
 
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My '58 with a 325 poly has what I would describe as an intermittent misfire or stumble.
Engine runs great otherwise, all cylinders have compression, the lowest at 125.

It's been a while since I've dealt with points ignition.

I was going to buy a new coil, but could it be the condenser, or both?

I'm not sure how to test either, so I put my timing gun on the coil wire, and everytime it stumbled the strobe would follow suit.

Any input/education is appreciated.
Not to be facetious, a a stock OEM coil is anout $ 20 plus tax....why not spend another $ 2-3 for condenser and points install and adjust them to specs and go down the road......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
What kind of screw up do you have going on there. The top photo looks correct. Don't worry about the plastic piece. It's just a different design. The points should go over the locating pin and screwed tight to the beaker plate. I would put the stainless spring on the other side of the bracket so that the electrical connector and the spring make contact with each other and the condenser wire is in the middle there. Condenser? Where did it go? I think I said it before, you need to get quality parts from Halifaxhops and not at the parts store.

My understanding is the early distributors and points are different.
The tab the coil wire and points spring mount to is isolated from the distributor with a non-metallic bushing under it.
The points have 2 'springs.' One comes off the points same as the newer style, the other is copper and comes off the barrel that goes over the mounting pin.
They are mounted on either side of the tab, I think, using a U shaped retainer, or using the retainer off of the condenser that is U shaped, but I cannot tell if there is anything in between on each side or not, and if so where.

I searched the Forward Look website and fb page and no one has ever posted a good pic of a distributor, and points are barely even mentioned.
I'll post some questions there.

Since the points I have are not exactly what was there originally, new ones are a few days away and do not appear to have the U shaped piece, I'm working with what I have at the moment.
I didn't order anything as I don't want to order garbage and I want too make sure I can get the exact parts needed.
Still not clear on what the exact points and pieces are needed and where to obtain.

I only removed the condenser to test it, it's back on, and it and the coil passed, as well as the other larger condenser mounted next to the coil, yes there is a larger condenser mounted next to the coil connected to the positive side.
 
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My understanding is the early distributors and points are different.
The tab the coil wire and points spring mount to is isolated from the distributor with a non-metallic bushing under it.
The points have 2 'springs.' One comes off the points same as the newer style, the other is copper and comes off the barrel that goes over the mounting pin.
They are mounted on either side of the tab using a U shaped retainer, but I cannot tell if there is anything in between on each side or not, and if so on where.

I searched the Forward Look website and fb page and no one has ever posted a good pic of a distributor and points are barely even mentioned.
I'll post some questions there.

Since the points I have are not exactly what was there originally, new ones are a few days away and do not appear to have the U shaped piece, I'm working with what I have at the moment.
I didn't order anything as I don't want to order garbage and I want too make sure I can get the exact parts needed.
Still not clear on what the exact points and pieces are needed and where to obtain.

I only removed the condenser to test it, it's back on, and it and the coil passed, as well as the other larger condenser mounted next to the coil, yes there is a larger condenser mounted next to the coil connected to the positive side.
The condenser on the coil is for radio suppression. I have seen points with a single stainless spring and ones with a copper strip for better electrical connection.
 
I have tons of them calibrated, really what do you want it all to do except dwell? Need other tune up tools also? Have a few kits also.
Do you sell distributors as well?
The problem is I don't know what I don't know, therefore I don't know what I need.
 
Do you sell distributors as well?
The problem is I don't know what I don't know, therefore I don't know what I need.
It is best to send him a Personal message.
 
PM sent. I have all of what he needs.
 
I checked for play in the distributor shaft, removed cap/rotor.
No wobble observed when cranking engine.

When I try to move the shaft side to side with my hand, it seemed to have a very, very, small amount of play, yet a little more side to side as opposed to front to back or other directions.
Definitely had play up/down.
I'm not sure if any play at all is acceptable, but then again I do not see it move while cranking.

Not sure if the cam can wear out.

I looked at the points again, and now they look like garbage to me, but what do I know.
Seem to be making contact along one edge as opposed to center.
I bought an nos set and although they looked to be correct, when I received them they are not, my fault.

I went to the local parts store and ordered a new set on the condition that when they arrive tomorrow if they are not correct I'm not out any $.

If the play in the distributor is within a certain tolerance, then maybe it is the points, for the cost it's worth a try I guess.

If any play is unacceptable (or new points tomorrow do not solve it) then I'll be in need of a distributor.
 
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12V Mike. Matt like I said up down dont worry about around 030. side to side is a worn bushing. If you need the points I have them. Noticed the books are wrong that I have they are CH-6
 
Running, not 'popping' anymore.
I found the correct points, after driving to multiple parts stores over the weekend.
I'm not convinced it is running 100%.

I'll probably replace the cap/rotor/wires/plugs even though they were replaced 30 years ago and the car was never fired up.

If interested, I captured all my stupidity on video.
Be kind, I'm a points novice, working intermittently, outside, in the cold, with no $, lol.

 
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