My 63 SF vert came with an inop system, disconnected. The top is usable, and can be hand raised and locked. I have 2 good actuators, but the left side actuator is not in line with the mating lever on the frame. The right aligns perfectly. The bottom connecting mounts seem welded to the floor, and immovable. Before i try to bend them, any experience out there? thanks!
Convertible ram alignment help please!
- Thread starter Geff McCarthy
- Start date
I've posted a photo from my resto pic file of my 63 vert top linkage, this is before I installed a new motor and hyd lines and have other photos after this was done. as posted above might help if you send a photo of what your issue is...
Thanks! Mine looks exactly the same now, except for clear plastic lines, filled with red auto trans fluid. The problem is at the lower right of your photo: The cylinder is held by a pin in the U shaped floor mount. The yoke end of the rod is mis-aligned with the rod over which it fits, held in place by a similar pin. I can't tell the alignment of your cylinders here, but i assume they fit back onto the frame with little force. My right one is aligned perfectly, it is the left that is off by about 1".
When i re-did my system I went with power steering fluid; original fluid was brake fluid, nasty stuff and leakage over the decades made a mess ruining the paint and primer. The cylinders are designed to swivel a bit on the mounts of course as a the top is raised and lowered. You say the cylinder rod is miss-aligned and this is at the base? What is the 1" out of alignment you're finding (point of reference)? The cylinders do move slightly side to side when connected to the top frame - torquing when raising the top. Check to see that the yoke is not bent and the cylinder rod as well. Assume the lower mount isn't damaged. When resetting the top to connect with the cylinders of course you want to ensure both are evenly adjusted so there's no uneven action btw them...the top is moving up evenly. As an added measure I inserted bushings on the lower mounts as after many years the mounting holes enlarge creating more slop. Send a photo of what you're describing think this will help out.
More pictures to add to Ron's:
Beautiful!! Mine is original, i have only re-painted the floor, etc. My hoses are clear plastic, which makes it easier to see the inevitable air leaks. The photo is "before", it looks much better now.
My next step may be: raise top part way, and see if the extended ram aligns better. Thanks again. Photo of photo of my original 63 Fury vert, 383 Golden Commando, 3 on tree.
Christmas 1962, Mechanicville NY. Fantastic car.
My Fury was the same color combo originally; it's gray now with black top. Anyway, hope coloradodave's and my photos helped ya out. I'm still not sure what your point of ref was on the 1" off concern; but if all is undamaged and you have the attachment to top frame points evenly adjusted should be good to go. If the system has air in it this could create some shifting of a cylinder as it can create an uneven action btw the cylinders until bled. If you have no leaks, full reservoir, the FSM says to operate the top several times and air will work its way out - this is the way I've done it and worked fine. I did completely replace the system in steps...new cylinders, lines, motor. Initially I rebuilt the old motor as it was a mess with fluid entering the motor and amazed it was still operational; though lethargic, before getting a new one. Only other thing I can maybe add is checking the top to make sure there's no binding going on as it raises and lowers.
Thanks again. I am working the air out, and fixing air leaks with the rams disconnected. Less load on motor maybe. The left ram yoke is actually outside the rod; i will need to bend or push it 1" in to connect. I plan to partly raise the top and see if the alignment is better. Cheers Ron.
